Hey guys, Its been awhile since i come on here last but i am confused on a problem i have on my z32, and its abit to explain so hope i get it all in there. I have 275/35 18's on the rear of the car and the drivers side sits perfectly in the guard, but the passenger side doesnt. In fact it sits about an inch or so out from the guard and everytime i take a right turn too fast its cutting into the sidewall. I am going to take the wheel off on Saturday to check behind it but i've been to two places already and neither of them have fixed the issue. I know the car has a leaking strut on that rear pass side which i will replace as the front to are different struts(dont ask me how, was like it when i got the car) and i need new springs but its beginning to get to the point of a major problem. I got the car with that size tyre on it and never had a problem until i swtched back to the 275 tyre(i went back to 265 for awhile due to money at the time and had no issues) and i've now got this issue. I havent touched the suspension on that side at all, the last time it was touched was when i got new springs which lowered the car (they didnt tell me it would) and caused 3/4 of damage to that rear tyre. If anyone has any theorys/ideas/knows the problem i'd love to hear them. Also my starter makes a grinding noise sometimes on cold mornings when i go to start and i've been told it is the starter solonoid as after it happens itll start on the next crank. If anyone can confirm this it would be appreciated. Thanks, Cam
you should get a new startor and also check your ring gear why you are at it. if you dont want coilovers the kyb agx/eibach kit is pretty good. otherwise get coilovers and you can adjust the corners individually. you will need camber arms front and back to get proper alignment
Will go to coilovers eventually but money doesn't allow that ATM. I already have upgraded camber arms front and rear and its not the camber.. It's the whole wheel that's sitting out.. No different top or bottom.. Left or right.. It's perfectly aligned but sits out too far.....but I will do that check with the starter before going further thanks. Any other ideas about the suspension..?
Will go to coilovers eventually but money doesn't allow that ATM. I already have upgraded camber arms front and rear and its not the camber.. It's the whole wheel that's sitting out.. No different top or bottom.. Left or right.. It's perfectly aligned but sits out too far.....but I will do that check with the starter before going further thanks. Any other ideas about the suspension..? It is anything but "perfectly aligned" if one of the rear tyres is touching the guard! As you stated it has "upgraded camber arms"...most refer to these as adjustable upper arms, check to see if the exposed threads are adjusted the same on both sides, they should be very close. Do both the rims have the same offset? Have you tried swapping wheels from one side to the other? Has the vehicle been accident damaged? Concerning the starter issue....check the ring gear teeth on the flywheel / flexplate.
It has the camber arms which are the ones that go around the strut done.. The rims are the same offset and as my brother is a wheel aligner I know the wheels are perfect camber, castor and toe but yet one sits perfect inline with the guard (drivers side) and the other sits an inch or so out which is far enough to have the guard bite at the side wall when turning or a big bump.. The tyres are asymmetrical yokohama advans so I can't swap them easily but as I said I'm going to get under it and have a look but as it hasn't had anything really done other than a spring swap then swap back to oem ones I was just seeing if anyone had any ideas as to what it might be. I will be replacing the springs and shocks but I know the strut on that wheel is leaking but I wouldn't think it would push the wheel out. So basically what I'm asking is taking the alignment of the wheel out of the equation, what could cause it to sit out. I've spent too much money to have the wheels aligned when they just throw it on the machine and its spot on anyway.. It's a frustrating issue... I just wanna solve it before I destroy this tyre..
Did your brother do the alignment? Did he notice the difference in the rear end? What is his opinion? If the alignment is correct, the car is bent.
He did the alignment but there wasn't an adjustment back there to bring it in.. It hasn't been like it since I owned the car and it only really happened when the car come back from the spring stuff around so I'm thinking they haven't put something back on right cause the tyres were the same when I bought the car and I didn't have any issue with this back then..
Changing springs will not cause the issue you have. However if it was still sticking past the wheel arch prior to the spring change then the lower springs are probably just showing the issue. Car/subframe is likely bent.
This is unfortunately what I said ... Although you can get a new subframe, good opportunity to replace all bushing and sway bar+delete hicas while in there
Your description of "wheel sits an inch or so OUT" is somewhat confusing when you then say that the body is destroying the tyre SIDEWALL???? From you posts, I would have expected the body to be fouling on the tyre tread(not the sidewall). Assuming that everything is properly adjusted, I would have to agree with those who suggest a 'Bent car and/or Sub-frame'. Have you tried accurately measuring from the centre of the sub-frame to outer face of the rear hubs(if those measurements are equal, then your rims must be the problem). Hope you get it sorted.:zlove:
Ill take some pics of it all on the weekend when I'm pulling the wheel off and ill be taking measurements like crazy and ill put it all on here if I can't see any obvious problem and that way we can all look at the same thing. But yes the guard is chewing on the sidewall but it is just on the bit where the tread meets sidewall... Not like down near the rim or anything just right at the top and mainly when I hit a moderate sized bump or turn right too quick. I'm hoping that I get it sorted too but as I'm alittle lost when it comes to suspension and I have all you guys that would know everything about the car that I can talk to it'd be stupid not to ask.
First thing you've gotta do is get it up in the air, on stacks or a hoist, take the wheels off and have a look. Was the wheel alignment done after you changed the springs? Why wasn't it picked up and investigated then? If it's as obvious as you're saying it would have been obvious when doing the alignment.
It doesn't look that obvious but its only when I drove it home and it started to damage the tyre we were like omg wtf is going on here.. The last alignment was done last week.. And no difference..
Where are you getting these wheel alignments done? Do they specialise in suspension work? Are you getting a "four wheel" wheel alignment? What are the front & rear toe & camber alignment settings? Has the mechanic performing these wheel alignments inspected the suspension components? Is the vehicle a TT with HICAS or a Non Turbo?
Getting done at local specialist and tyres and more shop.. Only focusing on rear.. Toe is within spec from what I know and its a tt with hicas... When I got the wheel off ill post on here and let u all know my measurements
K-mart would match your description of where you are getting the alignments. They should provide you with the alignment settings. It's fair enough to say it's within specification, but how would you know if they don't tell you what the settings are? What do you think the settings should be?
At least one person has said your car is bent. Before that rumour goes any further, could you swap your rear wheels ( yes they are directional) long enough to drive around the block and check if the scraping sidewall stays with the tyre or the same side of the car. One of your dampers might be gone.
More than one actually...... However just to clarify, those comments would be based on the supplied information, & that information was "the alignment is perfect". It's possible something could be loose, but there has been no mention of abnormal noises. A defective damper should be recognisable, especially by the mechanic working on the car.
