Currently ive got the battery in standard location, with a bunch of audio cables routed to the boot. Im removing the audio system from the car so these cables will be free. I was wondering whats necessary to relocate the battery to the boot? Do I just keep this audio power and earth cable in place, attach teh battery to the boot end and secure, and connect the engine bay end to usual power and earth connections? Is that all Id need to do? Just move the battery, connect engine bay wires where battery was, and put some new terminals on?
that how i did mines. put 2GA power wire in. fused the engine bay positive and straight to the battery in the boot. grounded the battery done. there are neater ways to doing it. but everyone to themselves.
Billy want to do mine for me? ive got most of the things needed & i can bring it past yours so you can have a look & you can tell me what else i need to get...ive been wanting to get it done for a while lol Abraham
My first question is WHY would you place the battery in the boot in the first place? Lets see... reasons against. :AFAIK unless seperated from the occupants by a fixed bulkhead, is illegal :reduced boot space :drilling of unnecessary holes. :Stuffing around with securely mounting the battery and venting the box to atmosphere :Running, insulating terminating and securing of heavy guage battery cables either inside or underneath the car lacing significant weight from behind the front axle line to BEHIND the rear axle line. Reasons for... :....? :....? :....? :....None that make any real sense. As a CAMS scrutineer of many year experience, most boot battery installs i have seen are at best somewhat laughable and at worst downright dangerous. Its usually one of those generic plastic battery boxes, tek screwed onto the boot floor and the battery placed inside and held down with a little fabric strap. And NOT vented to atmosphere. Ignoring the occasional expensive SLA users, who usually STILL insist on relying on some pissy little fabric strap to restrain the battery, the vast majority of batteries are heavy lead-acid jobs which produce hydrogen gas when charging. Hydrogen gas, contained in an enclosed space and a spark from a slightly dodgey connection makes a pretty loud bang. Enough to have you seeing stars, enjoying the constant sounds of whistles, jet engines and church bells at SPL's approaching a percieved 127Db in your head (chronic Tinnitus) and sometimes having trouble counting to 10 for a long time if the incident occurs in the confines of a car cabin! Not to mention the destruction of whatever interior a litre of sprayed hydrochloric acid can inflict. Unless the battery is VERY securely bolted down with very sturdy bracketry (and in my experience, I have NEVER seen sufficiently sturdy bracketry that was within a bulls roar of restraining a battery from even a mild accident), in the case of a decent front on accident, it can become a rather random 15/20Kg missile within the cabin. Placing the battery behind the axle line, while moving weigh balance rearwards, to a degree, results in outcomes (in terms of polar moment affecting initial turn in and cornering) less desireable than the very questionable f/r balance change. Im not going to go into a dissertation here on Polar Moments. Google it if you care. 50/50 weight balance sounds real good on paper...on paper. Surely Porsche would flick the diff and place the engine ahead of the wheels, just the same as in my F-Vee, if weight balance bothered them that much. If you want to move weight and make a positive difference, then move the battery to just behind the passengers seat. Heavy guage battery wiring simply adds overall weight, by several kilos actually, and most times it is run under carpet then out thru holes on panels and just forgotten about. Get a short in this cable somewhere and kiss the car goodbye. In summary, its a labour intensive and unnecessarily exercise. E
i can help you do it also you got a sealed battery? please get one. as mentioned. non sealed batteries are dangerous when they get used. i had a sealed optima yellow top when i did my relocation.
Would like to hear more positives as Tas and Chili asked.. No offense but this seems like a wank mod and looks tacky.
I didnt plan on moving it to alter weight distribution or affect handling in some way, my car bumps down the road clicking and ticking, sometimes it coughs, sometimes it pops, sometimes it doesnt start, sometimes it boost spikes, sometimes hoses pop off, sometimes it scrapes along the floor, sometimes spanners fall out of the engine bay as i drive down the road ..... its a ghetto monster! Minute weight distribution or handling changes are last on my mind. Not fussed about wank mod kudos or looks. My car is the definition of wank mod. I was hoping to move it so id have space to fit my water meth injection setup ive been hoarding for many months now. Thanks for the extensive answer Tas. illegal? so is every aspect of my car. Apparently its an N/A. Reduced boot space? I havent opened the boot in 6 months. Running cables? Theyre already there for the old audio setup.. Venting to atmo, and secure mounting? Taken on board, you make valid points i havent thought about before. I guess it wouldnt be hard to secure it. How about this venting to atmosphere business though. Open windows enough? Till now my battery wasnt secured in hte engine bay at all.. it just sits there snug in its spot. My previous battery tie slipped over and shorted out the car so i chucked it. I cant see it going anywhere. Its a big blue sealed battery from Rob260 once upon a time. Not sure what type they are, but i think sealed.
Totally agree with tas, and if you're going to do it use a lightweight sealed battery only. Whatever you do don't relocate your big, heavy, unsealed battery from the engine bay :rofl: Here's a pic of my battery mount in the FTO. Will be doing similar in the zed. PS: Does this pass your scrute inspection tas
