Ok here's the deal. I need 1x ring terminal, 8 AWG wire, 6mm stud, preferably crimp type (which I will also solder) 1x ring terminal, 8 AWG, 8mm stud, as above Obviously I will buy blister packs of required. Now why can I not find these at my local jaycar??? I can find heaps of parts online that are O/S and will take weeks to get here. Are there any online suppliers in AUS you can point me to? This really shouldn't be so hard...
baxters... I dont know whether they have anything on their website but I know thats where we get all our terminals and stuff for work.
Your local electrical wholesaler. Haymans Turks Lawrence & Hanson Ideal Electrical CNW Prices will be significantly cheaper than Jaycar or any other automotive retailer. Dont know if the bottom 2 are down your way, and you will have to find the mm2 equivalent of the cable sizing you are sourcing lugs for. They deal in REAL cables, none of this pissy automotive DC stuff -Michael
For quality connectors; http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsbullets.php Usually get em within a few days.
Cheers mate was looking for you on chat last night, glad you chipped in! Tell you what if you're interested there are going to be 8 other guys looking for cables to fit their alternators; are you interested in making some?
WES Components - Wagner Electrical Services www.wes.net.au You need to set up an acount, but that's easy. Very good prices too. Makes all of the point of sale prices look rather inflated for exactly the same items. 50 meters of red or black 8AWG is $95, gold plated 8mm crimp studs to suit are 50c each, although I'd suggest going for a less pretty but more functional zinc/cad coated mild steel for the teminals, and heatshrinking the terminations. Regarding crimping the large connector, if this is for the alternator connection, I'd suggest that you don't. High purity copper is quite ductile, and a decent crimp tool will certainly provide a reliable low resistance joint. Soldering the joint as well makes the joint rigid and also introduces heat and oxygen into the copper at the solder joint, which makes it brittle. I you really want to solder the joints as well, you could probably get away with that at the battery end as it won't be subject to vibration, but the alternator end will be. Cheers,
Rob, Shoot me a PM with a diagram or link to what you are talking about with regards to a modified alternator harness, will have a look at making them up for non-relocated battery setups. -Michael
