My NA Z32 has TT Transmission. Which cluch kit do I buy?

Hi, this is my first post! I know this is a pretty common question. (Ie does NA clutch fit TT etc). But I had my NA Z32 converted from auto trans to manual. And have only just realised upon dismantling that the car had been fitted with TT transmission. From clutch booster to gearbox.

Anyway could someone please verify for me that I will require a TT clutch kit?

I have measured the clutch plate etc and it is definitely the larger clutch plate. I think the flywheels are different between the NA and TT and also the mounting for the pressure plate is different.

Either way I guess I would be better off with the TT clutch as long as the hydraulics are up to par.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/NATTconversion.pdf
"You have to use a TT clutch assembly with a TT flywheel and the same with NA because of the way the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel."

Thanks

 

Yes you will need a TT clutch kit unless you change to a NA flywheel and NA clutch and shave where the starter motor mounts so it will engage the smaller diameter NA flywheel. The NA clutch wont mount to a TT flywheel.
It would be a step back as the TT is a bigger stronger setup anyway.

 

Probably a little more to this is that the TT FLYWHEEL will require a TT clutch.

To the OP, the Z32 NA and TT flywheels mount the same on the crank and are interchageable but as mentioned above there are some slight differences with the ring gear diameter.
Its the older single cam VG's which use 6 bolts instead of 8 bolts on the later clobber.

IIRC (apart from slightly different clutch diameters) TT's have 9 bolts securing the clutch cover, the NA's use 6 bolts so its reaL easy to determine whats what just by looking up the clutch release arms bumhole still in the car.

E

 

Alright, thanks for the heads up. Ring gear approx 320 OD.

Can anyone recommend any OEM compatible parts to upgrade the hydraulics?

Also whether or not it would be recommended to attempt replacing pilot bushing or removing the flywheel?

I would have the flywheel checked/balanced but not sure if it would make much of a difference?

Was going to upload photo but camera's gone walkabout.

Will post findings, Cheers

 

Errrm, whats to "upgrade"? in the hydraulics M8???
Its all everyday clobber and works in a bajillion different cases! Nothing aftermarket will work any better nor any more reliably save for replacing the funky pipe/hose setup with a simple single braided line which will do nothing apart from making bleeding more straightforward.

E

 

I was thinking mainly along the lines of maximum pressure. Maybe volume rate. Torn forks. Pull pressure plates.

 

The only 'upgrade' to the hydraulics is a one piece clutch line from UAS.

 

Why? Like spending money do we?

 

Not really. But I have had HD pressure plates rip holes in my firewall and clutch forks. Which costs more in the long run. Naturally it only makes sense to "upgrade" the hydraulics if running a pressure plate with significantly more clamp force than the system was designed for. Slave cylinder is 3/4" bore. VL commodore is 7/8". Does anyone know if it fits?

 

"naturally"... Does it now?

Look M8, for the last time. There is NOTHING upgradeable (as such) in the clutch hydraulics.
If youve had clutches explode and broken release forks then what in hell does that have to do with the hydraulics??? The former is usually associated with stupidity and the latter is with the actual strength of the fork.....

Clutches, for a given application, are designed to release with the standard release travel of the slave cylinder specified for that actual car.
tyhis is actually more or less an industry standard given every hydraulic clutch setup Ive come across uses a 5/8" master and a 3'4" slave which results is a release movement that satisifies the requirements of just about every diaphragm clutch ever made for automotive use.

So dicking around with the ratio of clutch pedal pushrod/fulcrum point, master and slave cylinder ratios is going to achieve nothing mechanically and simply give you insufficient release arm travel. NOTHING is more annoying than a "long" clutch pedal.

Just fit your leg operated bullworker and be happy in the knowledge that the stock hydraulics will happily handle whatever pressure your left leg can apply up to the point where the pedal will break, the master cylinder will simply punch out of the firewall or the release arm will bend and break in half.

If you envision, or god forbid, actually specify such a pointless exercise of a clutch, then no hydraulics upgrades in the world is going to help you overcome such mechanical failures.

Just fit your clutch M8 and be done with it.

E

 

Your better off cleaning the windshield if you want to prevent future clutch explosions. It has the same relevance of swapping out hydraulic parts. But atleast this way you have a clean window.

 

Yeah welcome to aus300zx to you too buddy. That's not what I said. I don't even really care. Its not something that I'm adament on doing. What I did say was that I have had heavy duty pressure plate rip a hole in my fire wall and clutch fork. What I also did not say was that it was a cable clutch in an EA Falcon . Anyway, apparently Nissan sell both 3/4" and 11/16" slave cylinders to fit Z32. Not sure about master cylinder. But I do not think the 11/16" would be as reliable? I think the thing is that, with the slave cylinder, the Z32 has a non standard 50mm distance between mounting eyelets where as the standard distance is 62mm. So I guess you would either have to re-machine the flange on a 62mm slave cylinder to fit, use an adapter plate, re-bore the cylinder or use a concentric slave cylinder. Otherwise look into whether something like an MGB or Mini slave cylinder fits which has larger bore. In which case you may also require an adjustable actuating pin because of the reduced stroke. Also apparently this is a problem with the 350Z which I think has a concentric slave cylinder. People are fitting HD pressure plates and blowing up the slave cylinder. I would be interested to know if anyone has tried these which are supposed to be heavy duty.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-HEAVY-DU...&fits=Model:300ZX&hash=item2327322e8b&vxp=mtr

There are a lot of different brands of clutch cylinders available. Sure some would have to be better than others. Does anyone know the maximum pressure rating of the clutch master and slave cylinders?

 

If the hydraulic components aren't up to the job, the worst thing that can happen is the clutch won't disengage.

 

I dont know where you are getting your info about cylinder sizes m8.
Just about EVERY Nissan made with a hydraulic clutch uses an identical slave cylinder @ 3/4" and *blah* bolt spacing.
I just go to ABS or whoever and keep asking until they have a cylinder in stock for whatever Nissan model. They are usually too stupid to know that they are largely all the same.

You dazzling urself in science here buddy. Just get over it and drive on.

E

 

Well, interestingly enough, I have found out that the mounting holes for the slave cylinder on a VL commodore (which has a bore of 7/8" as opposed to 3/4" OE) are approx 53mm between centers. And hence should then fit the mounting on the Z32 RS5R30A. Although I don't think I should be requiring this "upgrade" myself (Since the required hydraulic pressure for the OEM pressure plate is about 900psi (400ft/lb) and the heaviest pressure plate I would be looking at using (555ft/lb) would require about 1250psi. I think) I will consider it because it brings the required pressure back down to about 900psi for a 555ft/lb pressure plate. And someone else may find this information useful. From what I have gathered the maximum pressure rating of these components are usually 1000-1500psi.

 

OK I have two more questions.

I am lead to believe then that the NA clutch kit will fit onto the TT.

Is this correct then, are the NA and TT clutch kits technically interchangeable onto either flywheel?

Not that you are really going to want to use an NA kit on a TT. But my main reason for asking is that I'm a huge fan of Kevlar, and it is recommended to stay away from ceramic clutch plate for street use especially to reduce likelihood of damage to rear drive-train. So I would rather buy a Kevlar plate if possible but can only find them in 240mm. So my second question would be.

Does anyone know a good source for Kevlar clutch plates?
Thank everyone for your help so far. All input has been greatly appreciated.

By the way I am currently happy running NA but not ruling out the possibility of running a TT in the future.:br::br::br:

 

Also sorry, I have not done any "Fluid Mechanics" but I have done some engineering so I am afraid my calculations are incorrect besides that the required pressure on slave cylinder should be proportional to the clamping pressure of the pressure plate. Ie

Not sure I have used correct units etc :rofl::rofl::rofl:

 

So apparantly this would be to say that the R31 CSC fits Z32!