As I'm sure you will appreciate it's a fine balance and I'm sure with a little research you will find there is an optimal angle (depending on the type of core etc) To much angle will reduce the air flow to much and have a negative effect, it's all about getting the maximum weight of air per unit of time in contact with the surface of the cooler. As you can imagine if the air travels slowly then the air is warmed a lot more as it goes through the core so there is less efficiency as the later stages are getting warmer and warmer air. If the air travels quickly there is less heat in the air so it cools the whole cooler better BUT if the air is just zooming through with no tumbling or turbulence then there can be boundary layers built up in the matrix and the cooler can be "insulated" from the cooling effect of the air and you can end up worse off. It's sad that we haven't seen any results from the radiator testing that was being done in the states by one of the vendors. I'd like to see a comparison of the cooling abilities of each radiator when the air that is drawn through the rad is actually drawn by a stock fan at a speed that is contestant to what it will operate in the car. Actually it REALLY needs to be done in the chassis with the fan shroud and engine etc in place to give a REAL guide to the performance of the rad in the car. We all know that the rad and shroud being that ~25mm closer to the engine will effect the air flow and therefore the cooling abilities of the radiator system. As I have said it's all about weight of air per unit of time, a thicker core is all good so long as the sacrifice of air flow is not so great that the cooling abilities are actually reduced.
What on gods green earth is goin on here? Angled radiators won't improve efficiency. Straight up to the airflow is where its at. The reasons for an angled install are space restrictions or fitting a larger radiator in a smaller space. If its heavily angled it should be heavily shrouded, otherwise airflow does what it does and follow the least resistance. Neither will inciting turbulence increase cooling. Lots of laminar flow is the goal. So when you use guides, the goal is curved guides rather than straight. The most airflow by mass through the core will be the most efficient setup. You won't get a boundary layer effect through the radiator fins, the space is too small. Shouldn't even be talking about baffles here.
Get a bigger f*** out oil cooler. Will be the fastest way to cool down engine temps. *Also note, there will be a whole list of things which are contributing to your hot temps, not just one thing in particular. The zed cooling system does not allow much room for error. So you will need to fix these things as you go to. But Hence adding a big oil cooler add's a fail safe to ensure your engine temps stay nice and cool if something does go wrong.
The whole point in the fins in the matirx having louvres etc is to create more turbulence and therefore more air in contact with the surface as it travels through. This is also true with having radiators at a slight angle to the air flow. You can't have it both ways, more air flow is a product of less drag, less drag is essentially less air in contact with the surface (for the purpose of this discussion), if you have less contact with the surface you have less cooling. Radiators are designed to find the best of both, maybe not so much in shitbox cheap cars but certainly when things start getting serious in the world of racing and high performance cars,bikes etc. I bet there is far more air flowing through a stock radiator than the is through a 56mm core one yet the larger core cools more (we are told LOL!). Far to much thinking for a Sunday arvo anyway and getting slightly off topic. If you doubt it have a big of a search around and a google etc, you might be surprised and learn something
Who said anything about reducing the amount of air. YOU HAVE TO TRY TO SLOW IT DOWN SO IT DOES GO THROUGH. Otherwize the scoop in the front fills up with air that cant push through and it spills around and over the bar. Even the stock SMIC ducts have smaller cross section openings which then open up larger volume behind. Have a look at the intercooler inlet on the Nissan IMSA GTP race car or any other race car for that matter. Do/think what you want, I dont care. Fact is fact. Just trying to jam 100klm/hr of air through a FMIC with the face flat to the airflow DOESNT WORK.
read this. http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/general/scrp_0509_efficient_cooling_radiator/viewall.html
Considering I was the one that needs to go away and 'learn something', that sounds spot on to what I said ah Tekster. So c'mon Glenn chop chop, back to the workshop getting these rear diffusers out and about ah! Let the men talk about this radiator nonsence ah
Well OK I think what we have here is people completely missing the point but never mind. If you need to "slow the air down" (the air isn't moving the car is but what ever) then surely the "Tecky vehicle cooling system" would work better while the vehicle was completely stationary - it wont, doesn't, never does and never will. If it's about slowing the air down then we might as well throw the fan away - that'll slow the flow down! A bigger opening to the air flow WILL allow more air to flow, saying this is incorrect is utter madness even if the intercooler/radiator offers a significant restriction to the air flow you still have a larger area being exposed to the same pressure = more force = more air flow. Just because it's a car the laws of physics don't piss off on holiday and let everything run amuck because the internet says so. Regardless of the terminology people want to use the basic principal is you MUST move air through the core of the radiator, the ONLY way this will happen is via a pressure differential. Seeing as the vehicle is moving forward we use ducts and shrouds etc as much as we can - until the pressure in that area is high enough no more/very little air will move in to that area. This is why the shit that goes on BEHIND the radiator/cooler is just as important as the stuff in the front. If you fan is crap it wont shift enough air and your Z32 will overheat PERIOD! It's not a funky F1 racer or the likes it's a road car with a crap fan clutch and a crap intercooler installation missing the very important ducting/shrouds/air guides/baffles dooflicky thingy me whatsits that will create a higher pressure area in front of the rad.
WHY!? What exactly is in there that you think I don't understand? :rofl: It's an article for stock cars that run at over 200mph and want just the right amount of air flow to avoid loosing down force etc - not really that related to a Z32 overheating on the road at 100kph.
Wouldn't an angled installation also help because at the top of the cooler there is more space behind the cooler? Mine's mounted at a agressive angle (originally for fitment purposes and avoid chopping into the front bar) and people who've worked on it (ie. rollin) have commented how effectively the cooling system is on my Z. It will have to raised up and angle slightly decreased when putting on the undertrays from mungyz.
Hey Tecky, nice shroud. We fully ducted the intercooler on The Slot Car, after moving it back a fair way amd turning intercooler upside down, making custom pipes and custom wider radiator.
