Hi, I'm Tony, and I'm new here, so I figured I'd introduce myself and post a bit about my Z. This is my second Z32, a 1990TT 2+0 USDM model. Everything aside from mounting and balancing tires was done by me. Mod list below: Power: -------------------------------------------- EVC IV boost controller Wastegate aluminum hard line with ?? SAE 30R7 fuel hose Custom SpecialtyZ tune (FTMFW!) Selin Dual MAF Translator with dual JWT POP Chargers Scott Smith intake hardpipe kit w/ red hoses NGK BKR7EIX Iridium plugs SMC Methanol Injection system, custom piped Nismo 740cc/min injectors (95+ style) MSP exhaust manifolds JWT Sport 500 turbos Specialty Z expansion downpipes Specialty Z 3? -> 2.5? stainless test pipes with WBO2 bungs HKS Turbo exhaust 300 Degree EGR bypass kit Z1 Intercoolers Unorthodox Racing crank pulley H.I. water pump OD pulley Ramey Z HD idler studs Electrical/Information: -------------------------------------------- New 95 EFI harness Polished 95 CAS New battery/starter harness New alternator/transmission harness 6-point grounding kit with 8 AWG wire, gold plated ring terminals and brass hardware DieHard Platinum battery Autometer 30 PSI boost/vacuum gauge Autometer oil temp gauge Autometer electronic fuel pressure gauge Summit Racing chrome fuel pressure adapter Cooling: -------------------------------------------- Koyo radiator with Ti bleeder screw Nismo radiator cap MegaZ gunmetal PC'ed WingZ kit Scott Smith radiator hardpipe kit w/ red hoses Z1 Silicone heater core hoses Z1 Silicone coolant outlet hoses Drivetrain: -------------------------------------------- RPS segmented aluminum flywheel DXD Custom Feramic clutch ZSpeedPerformance HD clutch fork IPP Stainless clutch line Chromoly clutch pivot ball SPL Solid shifter bushings Powertrain 1-piece aluminum driveshaft NA 4.08 rear end Woody's short shifter Nismo Transmission Mount Handling/Braking: -------------------------------------------- SPL Coil Overs SPL Front Upper Control Arms SPL V2 Tension Rods SuspensionTechniques sway bars Powertrix Rear Upper Control Arms 300 degree brake master cylinder brace 350Z 12.75? Track Rotor brake upgrade with Bernie?s AL brackets, Stoptech 2-piece rotors and matching slotted rear rotors. Stoptech Street Performance pads SpecialtyZ braided stainless brake lines Stillen engine damper brace HiCAS completely eliminated with NA pump Wheels and Tires: -------------------------------------------- 18x8.5 (+33mm) and 18x10 (+40mm) O.Z. Superleggera III wheels, Continental ExtremeContact DW rubber, 255/35/18 front 285/30/18 rear. Oh yeah, and GZA Z valve caps Fluids: -------------------------------------------- Amsoil ATF in the power steering system Royal Purple 10W-40 with ZDDPlus in the engine Redline MT-90 in the tranny Redline 75W-90 in the diff Redline Water Wetter with 50/50 DI water/antifreeze ATE TYP 200 Brake Fluid. Audio System: -------------------------------------------- Alpine CDA-9831 Head Unit AudioControl EQQ 4-channel, 13 band analog EQ Front Channels: Focal 165 V2 Polyglass components Rear Channels: Focal 165 V2S Polyglass midbass drivers JL Audio 12 AWG speaker wire, front channels JL Audio 16 AWG speaker wire, rear channels Stinger 10 AWG speaker wire, subwoofer Monster XLN Pro RCA interconnects Xtant 2140c Amplifier Xtant 3300c Amplifier MB Quart PWE304 12? DVC subwoofer ChrisZTT Type 1 driver side sub enclosure Interior and Cosmetics: -------------------------------------------- Katzkin leather interior - dove grey w/ black bolsters. All leather Autovation machined finish pedals JSPEC tails Illuminated JSPEC center panel 35% Tinted windows Headlight aimer cover and driver t-top shade signed by Mr. K Passenger t-top shade signed by Steve Millen Carbon canister, AIV, PRVR, EGR, plenum coolant lines all deleted Balance tube, intake valve covers and timing covers painted satin black Timing covers smoothed to eliminate PTU mount and driver-side ribs Fan shroud smoothed and painted satin black Timing cover bolts polished Hose Techniques Super Red 6mm hose and Super Silver 4mm hose Plenum, throttle bodies, parts of throttle linkage powder coated ?chrome by the pound? Throttle linkage powder coated satin black Coil pack brackets, CAS bracket, IACV hard pipe, fuel filter bracket, Stillen brace brackets and various grommets and brackets powder coated gunmetal (matches MegaZ radiator wing) Chrome throttle cable holder Chrome fuel hardline Chrome battery cable bracket Smitty's polished and etched fuse box cover Satin polished water pipes Custom polished oil cap Z1 Silicone IACV hoses GZA Oil dipstick GZA Battery tie-down GZA Gas cap GZA Winshield washer fluid cap Polished carbon fiber throttle cover with TT.net store stickers.(yes, it?s lighter than stock ) Every non-structural bolt in the engine bay was replaced with a stainless bolt/nut Dyno tuned by Greg and Seb of Specialty Z on 5/8/2011 -------------------------------------------- 400RWHP, 395RWTQ on 93 octane (AKI), 16PSI boost 436RWHP, 457RWTQ on 93 octane (AKI) + Methanol, 19PSI boost G-Tech 0-60mph times: Best: 3.9 sec Average: 4.0 sec So just wanted to say hello! :br:
Couldn't agree more I prefer slightly more power out of my Z's and could do without the chicken mesh in the front bumper. Looks very clean otherwise and kudos for doing the work yourself. Newer similar builds can yield greater power and similar performance while realizing substantial savings in the wallet. My old-school Silver 2+2 TT Z cost 10's of thousands more to build 10 years ago than our current Stealth Black Project Z with similar results. Glad the Z is more affordable now for more to enjoy. Aside from that a very nice old-school build Vuk@AMS
Agreed the mesh is a bit rough but otherwise I nice clean car. Must have put some hours into that one! How about some interior photo's?
That's a nice looking Z Tony. Perhaps you could use some of this - http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINIUM-B...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1cfdfc73 Yes, I know it's ebay and I know how you look down upon people wo use ebay and "other" sources for their mods/parts other than the ones you prescribe to, but I think that type of grille mesh might go well with the black theme of your car and give it a bit more of a refined/oem look. I would have thought you'd be hosting a a fair bit more HP than what you've got. But as long as your happy with the results, that's what matters. You also get to have the bragging rights of top dollar components for so-so dyno results.
Yeah I hate to say it but MAF technology is a thing of the past with modern high HP Z32 tuning, with a decent ECU in there tuned on a decent dyno with a decent tuner you're going to pull another 50Hp with ease. We gained almost that just by adjusting the fuel and ignition between cylinders on two Z32s recently and I know of a couple more that have done similar. If you can't tune individual cylinders then you are playing with old school tech - not that there's anything wrong with old school, people are in to building hot rods etc and want to live in the past as well. A syndicate I am in purchased an Ashspec Zemulator to test what could be done with the stock ECU retuned, we wanted to see how well it could go and even had plans to reset the NZ land speed record using the stock ECU on a relatively mildly modified Z32. After spending a couple of grand in dyno time we gave it up as a lost cause, fitted a Link G4 GTR ECU and picked up a significant amount of power in the first tune, that same car has gone on to run about 15% more power from no mods other than the modern ECU. Still the car looks nice and I'm sure it goes fine for a street ride
Wow very nice Tony! Really liking the OZ superleggera's, suit perfectly. How'd you get some spl fuca's? Would love some myself! cheers, Tim
Hi John, EAD. Google it if you don't know what it means. We only went to 19PSI because I gapped the plugs to 0.035" rather than the suggested 0.028" to 0.030". This set up is capable of 22PSI with ease, pushing it over 500 wheel TQ easily. This car is still on OEM IC pipes and throttle bodies. I may be upgrading to the Ashspec pipes, Massives and Rob's billet 62mm TBs next summer, and we'll fly SZ out again to retune. Thanks Tim, I got them a few years back when they were still making them. They've got new ones coming out shortly, along with some other new components. Thanks, it was a painstaking process, but I'm very happy with the results. The "chicken mesh" is actually quite functional when dealing with leaves in New England fall driving. This "old school build" only made 15 less RWTQ than your build, at 2 less PSI. I can't compare power/torque at RPM because you still don't know how to properly export a dyno file. Yes Vuk, we get it. Your company is helping Civic owners afford a Z32; one cheap Chinese-copied part at a time. No chance, too ricey for me. I smoothed and painted my timing covers, I've got about 10 hours into them and the fan cover. Sure thing
Tony, would you happen to have a guide or in the past, done a write up on how you did the fan shroud?
Hi Tony. Very nice car. Thats one hell of a mod list. One problem though, the battery is on the wrong side Maybe photoshop mirror it, so we can understand it downunder.
So many welcome messages already from these honorable men. Thanks for sharing your specs. Reading your expertise over the years at NICO Zed forums I know your combination of upgrades should be a clean and reliable setup so that when I finally have the money to full fill a want, Id tune my car properly.
Looking great as always Tony ~ Inside and out. I'm planning out my next sound system, have admired your install! During the restoration of my Z I pulled a good amount of debris (dead leaves and suck) from the front, and had the same thought about running with a screen. That and with Ash's planar inlet piping and the shorter 350Z POP filters, I have enough room for a guide to keep water and whatnot away from the filters and channel air where it needs to go. I'm curious to see if this will keep the filters cleaner longer~ it will be interesting to compare! Hopefully I'll be able to hook up with you guys for the next Dyno session, as well as for ZCon! :br:
Hi Jamie, The basic steps are: 1) Using a Dremel sanding drum, sand the ribs down very close to the shroud, but be sure to not cut into the surrounding plastic. 2) Sand with a 320 grit or so over the entire surface of the shroud 3) Fill any imperfections with Bondo spot filler putty (or similar), sand again once dry. 4) Cover with two thin coats of primer, allowing to dry in between. 5) Check for imperfections, fill if required. Let filler dry and sand with 320 grit again. 6) Clean with soap and water, allow to fully dry, then paint with color of choice. I used Rustoleum Satin Black for an OEM look. 7) Allow to dry, then wet sand with 600 grit paper. Then rinse and dry. Spray another coat. Once dry hit with 800 grit and wetsand. Repeat these steps with 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit paper. After the 2000 grit wetsanding, spray with your final coat, ensure a very light, even distribution. Then voila, you're done
Thanks, and as I mentioned in my reply to John, this set up is easily good for about 30-35 more RWHP and RWTQ with another two pounds of boost. The methanol injection is an awesome mod if you don't have race fuel easily accessible in your area.
