I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY PASS SIDE WINDOW IN MY"Z" .I have the door trim off and the motor seems ok.I have read on this site some time ago that a dry joint in the wiring can cause it.Someone said that a ''black box'' in the door control mechanism was the answer,if so,what does it look like, and exactly where do I find it.How do I get it out, and what do I look for.Maybe someone has another suggestion for the problem..My car is a 1995 aust model ex Nissan Aust,and non turbo.CAN ANYONE HELP. Thanks stevo
There is a button on the Drivers side Control Panel that isolates the switch operation for the windows. Make sure it is not switched to "Drivers side operation only"(try it in both positions).
pass door window Thanks chilli, problem is NOT isolation button on drivers door,is definately electrical,and within the door somewhere,have checked pass side door switch, and it is OK Thanks again stevo.
chad ,thanks for your reply,in answer to your question,I hit it with 12 v direct [with the door switch disconnected] and the window proceeded to go up, however I stopped half way,in case I could not get it down again,reconnected the door switch and hit the down button and it came down. I tryed it again in both modes using the door switch and it was sluggish and eventually refused to work at all. I still suspect some form of electrical interruption to supply,and the switch is OK,asI have tested it away from the car, so I'm no further ahead. thanks ,will await more info Regards stevo
Normally it is broken solder on the end of the pin, just needs resoldering. You are looking for a black box, pop it open, find the pin, resolder and happy Zedding! A few links below show you what it looks like. Have a search yourself, lots of info.. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315145&highlight=window+switch http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311986&highlight=window+switch
if you provided the motor direct power and you had problems there to start with i would be looking more closely at the motor itself and the mechanics forget the electrical box, switch etc start from the source and work from there...
Chad, thanks for the info.I deliberately stopped the action of the motor when giving it direct current as I did not want to get it all the way up in case I could not get it back down again. I still seem to think it is an electrical fault ex the motor. regards stevo.
BaseX Thanks for the info,however being new to this problem a question ? does each door have a control box and if so because it is the pass side door is that where to look,or is there only one located in the drivers door which controls the windows on both sides ???
It's NOT the power window amplifier !!!! The power window amplifier only operates on the DRIVERS window Auto electrics can be a real PITA, use a multimeter and test for continuity across the whole circuit..... sooner or later you'll come across the fault
The black box/power window amp operates both windows. It will have a dry solder joint like you say. It is located in the drivers door just below the handle.
Wrong..... The power window amplifier only powers the DRIVERS window. I assume the passenger window didn't get one because it lacks the 'automatic open/close' function.
dont get what you mean really, bypass all the electrics and check operation of motor and mechanics first. put power to the motor goes all the way up, reverse polarity motor goes all the way down, if this all works sweet then move onto the electrics one by one... if it doesnt work then you have a problem with the motor and mechanics...
Thanks Ian for your reply,it now gets very confusing as a2zed says that there is only one power window amplifier which is located in the drivers door and it controls BOTH door windows,wheras you think it may only control the DRIVERS window.How is it fastened within the door frame,and how does it come apart ? I am not frightened to have a go at it, however I don't believe in just rushing in and then finding out that I have made a fatal error,as it can also be costly. This car only has just over 40,000 KM on the clock and is as new.Anything further you can add may be of help. Regards stevo.
Wiring diagram http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manu...le=0&cycle=off&slide=3&design=default&total=4 Page 3, right side bottom
I KNOW it only powers the drivers side !!!! Don't waste your time pulling your drivers side door card off, because your problem is NOT the power window amplifier. You state the motor is okay, so that only leaves wiring and switches. As I said previously, get your multimeter and start checking for continuity. You need to check harnesses (pin to pin), and switches (across contacts) to find if you are going 'open circuit' somewhere. Also, check your 'grounds' because most auto electric faults are due to bad earths. Start your testing at the drivers side combo switch because the passenger wiring loops off the drivers switch (that's how the isolation switch functions).
Thanks Ian ,Will now get my multimeter on the job !!! here's hoping for a good result. regards stevo.
Hi Chad, thanks for the info will try reversing polarity when I put it all the way up,and go from there, not knowing too much,I was afraid to try reverse polarity in case I shorted something. Much appreciated , stevo
Based on the wiring diagram the power window amp ( in drivers door) does no appear to be connected to the passenger side switch. It is how ever connected to the main switch which also controls the Passenger window. Why are all manuals printed for the american car market?
