Hey guys, Im stuck trying to work out an easier way of doing either repair or replacement on the master cylinder on a '90 TT (located on the drivers side firewall) Do you have to pullout the whole cylinder or can you just remove the bis at the back of it and replace the seals from under the dash. Im tearing out what little hair I have left trying to make it as least painful procedure as possible Cheers in advance!
It's not a super hard job mate... Just fiddly. Grab a mate to help with the bleeding of the brakes later. General idea is to start at the wheels furthest from the BMC. Don't forget the ABS. Check out this video to get an idea of what you are up against... Different car, but the concept is the same [yt]trotrlIG2sk[/yt]
Haha I can't seem to get it... Also its the CLUTCH master cyclinder, my bad... Are there any tech details on how to remove that here somewhere? Cheers.
There is an "R" clip and a small pin to remove the pushrod clevis from the pedal itself inside the cab. The hydraulic line can be got at with a 10mm open ender by threading your hand up in the gap between the strut tower and the engine but below the plenum. There is enough room but you have to snake your hand right up alogside the motor and then "round the corner" a bit so youll contort yourself at an interesting angle, but youll swear like all gettout when you drop the spanner (which you will)!! There is enough room to swing the spanner nice and straight on the tubenut so long as its not a long series open ender. 2 nuts secure the MC and they are a bit of a bastard to get at. I use a very long extension and a "wobble socket" or at least a uni joint as you just cant get a straight enough shot at the nuts from the front of the engine with just a socket and long extension. There you go. Tech writeup done! While your there. Remove that whole hydraulic line setup along with the "pipe to nowhere" that ends up with a bleed nipple just in front of the strut tower and replace it with a single simple braided brake line. Dont even bother asking why but youll thank me profusely for this later on. L8r E
Cheers much! The thing I am seeing at the moment is that it doesn't look like there is enough room to remove the cylinder from the engine bay. It just hits the back of the plenum and doesn't quite go out far enough. Is this normal? I have removed the pin from the pedal and the 2 nuts on the firewall. I've tried using a flare nut wrench to get the pipe line off but that is extremely painful I will try it the way you have suggested.
Thins is, mines an NA with NO booster so i cant comment but you should be able to pull/crank the MC out at an angle to clear the plenum. Its a right arse to get that hydraulic line tubenut off at the best of times but worse if some gorilla has tightened it up bigtime in the past. I was lucky that mine cracked off quite readily. I reassembled it with anti-seize compound just in case. If you are going to replace that pesky line setup then just "adjust" the pipe with wirecutters! L8r E
Hey, Mitch... you guys ready for another Tech Day? Maybe you can show me how to do that master cylinder fix??
I had to do mine several years ago(when I was pulling the Dash to do the air vent repair and Heater Core). From memory, I had to pull the Clutch Booster and the pedal assembly(which pulled the mounting studs in through the firewall)this in turn allowed the M/Cylinder to slide out from behind the Plenum without any difficulty. I take no responsibility for a failing memory.:rofl::rofl:
One of me wants a tech day, the other me wants to stay at home and drink beer. Such is life when you have split personalities... Oh wait... you mean the newwy crew (Larlok and I, plus others?) Sounds good I've never done a BMC fix before, but always keen to have a guinea pig
