Now i can thrash my motor with more confidence around the track Hooked it all up with a mocal sandwich adapter and AN-10 braided lines. Its the 3Quart accusump 3.5 litres. It has an electronic valve which energizes itself when the ignition is switched on, this means my engine/turbos are pre oiled before i even start the engine with 3 and a half litres of oil. Engine used to rattle a touch just after start up if it had not been started for a while, now it doesnt For those of you who are not familiar, if i get a sudden loss of oil pressure during heavy cornering or under braking/Acceleration which drops to below the vlaves preset 35/40 psi the accusumps valve will open up and pump oil straight to the block at the same pressure the engine was pumping out before it lost surge. amazing huh p.s i promise my interior isnt pink lol..... vid
Accusumps are a good bandaid fix but ultimately you'd opt for a higher pressure oil pump, and a larger capacity baffled sump yes? Not sure if I'm keen on having oil lines in the cabin like that. Isn't that illegal in racing too?
The pump has nothing to do with it. It's a bandaid for oil surge due to sump design, nice bit of kit though, I like mine . I'm not a fan of high pressure oil lines in the cabin either
Put it this way, il know if a pipe pops off You can muck about with baffled sumps and higher pressure oil pumps but at the end of the day a dry sump is the only option.
2nd that. Hope you have a roll bar! With the 35/40 psi valve, won't that mean the accusump will continuously charge/discharge non stop during idle? (we don't idle anywhere near that 35psi). Is that ideal?
Its actually welded to the chassis with a back plate then looped around the strut brace for extra strength.
Nothing wrong with that. For race applications Canton recommend you just use a normal ball valve with no electric switch and have it open when the car is running.
Those who know me will probably say you're wrong. Bud I was just looking out for your safety, It was not intended to be offensive or anything. Don't read it the wrong way! :zlove: I have been looking at getting the accusump for some time now, just not sure where I should mount it. Your post is a good one, like I said don't take it the wrong way. Its easy to misread one's intention.
Lol nothing like Hot Oil being sprayed in your face! All the best with the project, and well done for thinking outside the square, hoping the Accusump serves you well.
Lol nothing quite like it at all. So refreshing. But seriously, the pipes at the accusump are hiden under the centre panel then they come out the side and through the firewall.
Thnaks for putting up the info. In your video oil pressure only goes to 16PSI and the video cuts out, does the pressure go higher and how long does it sustain for ? Would like to see an extended video that shows how long the pressure sustains and how high it goes with out a start up, and a video with a start up. Since it rains all the time over there it will give you something to do indoors. EDIT: Did a little reading and discovered that the pressure available is what pressure was at when shut down, manual says 11 PSI at idle so 16 PSI makes sense, some how I expected it to be higher. Still would like to see how long it sustains that pressure for.
Max i see on start up is about 20psi or so..... Hey Chrispy whats the maximium pressure you get before start up?
When you flick the switch with the engine off? Not sure haven't done it yet, only turned it on after the enigne is on. Mine is to account for having a unbaffled sump rather than a preluber. Mine is currently dissconected as how I had it before I was having oil pressure issues due to the oil thermostat and lines being too restrictive. I will recconect it to a sandwich plate under the filter without a cooler soon.
If you get a chance can you do a little test, i would like to see how much pressure yours builds before start up. Thing is mine is on a sandwich plate and there isnt really a check valve to stop it pressurising back up the oil tree and to the sump, until i have installed a check valve i wont get full pressure to the block on prelube, although when the engine is actually running and the pump is turning it should help the oil circulate in the correct direction and stright to the block instead of both ways.
Sorry i could only upload a max of 21secs from my mobile phone. It sustains pressure on prelube for a good 10 secs, its starts to fall from 20psi but will still hold pressure for about 15secs but very low pressure like 5psi at the very end until it drops completly from 2psi or so.
