Hi all I'll be doing some work on my Zed next weekend (Tassie term 1 - 2 week holiday break) and I'm after some tips on soldering my S2-PTU. I don't have a soldering iron or any solder so any tips would be welcome? I imagine I'll just get a basic Dick Smith one as I'm only soldering the PTU and some speakers wires and I doubt I'll have a need for anything "with bells and whistles" Is there anything I should be aware of when soldering the PTU? (I have the S2 - S1 PTU wiring layout re the group buy so ok there) Is there a special/recommended solder to use? Do I need 'flux"? I'm confident on the basics of soldering (not to burn myself or the Zed). Thanks all...Hopefully a basic Tech to answer Pete
Hey Pete, Your regular dick smith soldering iron and 1mm Tin/Lead (60) solder will do the trick. Make sure the exposed wires are clean before you try to solder them and that you don't have the PTU plugged in whilst you're soldering. Slip a little bit of heat shrink onto one of the wires before you solder so you can then pull it up over the solder joint and then shrink it. I like to use a piece of small heat shrink and a large piece but that's not entirely necessary. Good luck!
Get a good soldering iron DSE sell one with a temp gauge which is useful. Also clean hands important.
Use a non activating flux, make sure the wires and crimps are clean, use IPA and see if you an get some 63/37 solder. Tin the crimps and wires first then wick the solder off the crimps.
One more question - soldering coilpack wires one more question I forgot in the original posting Is soldering new coilpack wires to existing wires the same as PTU? I'm replacing the coilpacks as a couple are stuffed so now's a good a time as any. Cheers, Pete
I use soldier sleeves for all my loom wiring , about 85 cents each from here http://www.larpro.com.au/larpro/category/163 Get a cheap heat gun off ebay and you can do quick tough professional joins. You stick the wires in each end of the tube and point a heat gun at it. The whole tube shrinks, the soldier ring in the middle melts and soldiers the wires together while the hot glue in each ends melts making a watertight heat shrinked seal, works a ****ing treat. Just stick a piece of foil behind the wire your joining to stop melting other wires around the join. For the speaker wires just use a TERMINAL BLOCK CONNECTOR note:the blocks can be cut up, and save yourself alot of time and hassel or soldier sleeve it. , wrap electrical tape around it once your happy
The problem with solder sleeve are that they are bulky and don't flex if you are going to use solder sleeves, stagger them so the loom doesn't bulk out too much.
All hail the soldier sleeves they rock, waterproof connection love them. Compared to all those shitty 2 cent crimp connectors usually used in cars to join wires.
just twist and soldier, then tape them individually, then put them all together and tape them together to make it look factory. just make sure you dont use cheap tape. (will only cost you about $1.5 for a decent roll) whats with everyone using heat shrink.. so much effort.
If you have never soldered before, get some wire and get a lot of practice. Don't leave the iron on the joint too long, heat will transfer along the wire and can cook the unit. Unplug it. Use the iron to heat the joint and let the joint (not the iron) melt the solder. Don't just put the solder direct to the iron. A good joint is bright and shiny. Anything dull or frosted looking is imperfect (often called a dry joint) and will cause you trouble down the line - do it again. Once the solder is applied you must hold the joint still for say a second (even if you feel your fingers burning) until it solidifies. Any movement of the joint while the solder is setting gives and instant dry joint. Get a solder sucker or some desoldering gauze so you can remove the solder and have another go to fix mistakes. Grow an extra arm - absolutely the best soldering aid. Goolge "How to solder wires" plenty of info there and heat shrink - a gift from the gods!
