The plan is the same with drokks car, ducting is all made up so they are properly ducted from the stock air inlets. Should be going back on the dyno next week. At the moment it won't go any more than 18ish psi, we'll see what the japteks do.
Eric, have you (or someone while on the dyno) tried measuring the boost from the pressurised intake line before the SMIC's? That should give an accurate reading to see if the turbos are actually boosting to full capacity. When my car was on the dyno, i hit 320rwkw at 16psi (manifold pressure), and then did another run straight away except with the boost reading from the pressurised intake line before the IC's, and it measured 20psi there (obviously with the same 320kw power reading though). But that showed clear as day that i'm getting 4psi pressure drop from the Trust SMIC's. I also fear that even with that power, i can still achieve more if i ditch the Npower dumps for a better set. Has Drokk got a good exhaust setup aswell?
At anything over 14psi the pressure drop accross the coolers starts to go up, remember this car also has cams, headwork, mani's, 28rs's etc, so it is pushing alot more air volume at the same pressure at yours. It has a port for measuring pressure in both pipes to and from the left hand cooler. The Greddy's are basically out of flow before the turbo's start to pull strong. Dumps are custom 2.5 with split wastegate pipes, similar to CES. Mandrell bent exhaust, 100cpi cats and magnaflow rear mufflers, so exhaust is certainly up to the task. I have finally got a hold of the car to do some more fine tuning of the set up, it hasn't been touched since the engine went in so it will be good to get some things sorted.
Excellent to hear Eric. I'd like to see how your progress goes with this, especially with the new JAPTEK's in there if you or Drokk don't mind. - even if it's via pm.
If you don't mind I think this would be great info to post for everyone to see as I believe there are quite a few people buying the Japteks.
Doesnt that indicate that the coolers are working and cooling down the air? Less heat = Less pressure. The same amount of air went through, obv more dence on the manifold side. Is the 'pressure drop' even an important factor when that is mostly the objective?
Some preliminary results from the japteks. Intake temps on a hard 2nd and 3rd gear pull on the road are around 8-10 degrees C cooler than the greddy's, ambient temp at 23, max intake temp at 28. This is with stock front bar, sides and fogs still in, custom ducts and under tray. Car should be getting dynoed tomorrow so I will post up any results I get from there. Will get in/out temps of coolers and pressure drop if I can.
Ok, finally have some results from the japteks. First the engine GT2860rs turbos MSP mani's CES style dumps R5 cams 1mm over valves Ported heads Pressure drop- 1.8psi at 22psi boost 1.6psi at 20psi boost Temp drop, hard to get an accurate measure due to heat soak on the dyno, but they seem to hover about 20-30 degrees above ambient. The more runs the car did, the less efficient the coolers became, obvious considering the lack of air flow on the dyno. Road testing indicates they are able to keep intake temps within 10-15 degrees of ambient. The boost response is around 400rpm slower with the japteks compared to Greddy's, but also remember the i/c capacity is almost double. Once on boost, the curve is alot smoother and holds the peak longer. The only issue to come from the dyno session was mbc verse ebc. Boost response with an ebc would be around 1000rpm earlier than the mbc fitted currently. The mbc simply cannot do what it is needed to, the gates are bleeding open to early and boost response is suffering, because of this it won't reach peak boost early enough.
Hey mate, I have a quick question. I installed my Japteks yesterday but ran into a slew of headaches installing the passenger side one due to the carbon canister and the pipes coming out of it being in the way. Is there some better method to install the IC's that I don't know about? I just bent the pipes as best I could, without snapping them, but the IC still tilts forward. Cheers, MoulaZX
Essentially that is all you do. Just sit the cooler up and work out where the pipes need to move, takes a little fiddling to get them clear but they do fit.
I just bent the hell out of them as far up and back as they would go. You can bend them far enough so they dont interfere with the intercooler.
