im bored of my car so i started stripping it and i didnt stop so anyway pretti much every area is getting touched, boot, interior, stereo, exterior, engine, engine bay blah blahhhhhh.... im hoping to finish everything before summer hits towards end of this year.... i think its doable.... some quick snaps and i will update things as i go... pretty much wat it looks like right now... dam it was soooo dirty some wax and grease remover + many many cloths = these cars are pretty deadened as they are. i really dont know why people just go spastic with dynamat when its absolutli not needed. a quick lesson: dynamat adds weight = reduces resonance = NOTHING ELSE... in addition a large area of flat metal with resonate but an area with many bends etc in it will not resonate. for example get a flat piece of metal. tap it with something in the middle, it will prob give you a nice ring to it.... now add some dynamat to it prob about 25% coverage and hit it again, im sure you will find there is a big difference in the resonance you get with it.... same applies to this: flat piece of metal hit it, and it rings... get a hammer and smash some dints in it or some bends all over.... hit it again, and it will hardly resonate just like if you had applied dynamat to the other piece... so anyway as you can see the zeds boot has many bends etc etc these aint going to resonate... plus the stock deadening is pretyyyyyyy good in these cars... i pryed off any loose bits and applied dynamat anywhere that req some weight to reduce the resonance of the metal... after this i am installing the battery in the boot. its an orbital battery and is sealed etc etc. made up some brackets which havnt finished. i will still need to weld some extra bits to the side of the battery bracket so the battery cannot move side to side even in an accident... the bracket u see standing with a large bolt will be mounted from underneath the car. the bolt will come in and im sure u get the pointtt here.... next step is to get some 0gauge or alike cable to connect the battery up to the starter motor. im still unsure if i will go straight to the starter motor, then to alternator then to a distro box under the bonnet for anything ele needing power... or if i should just go from battery to distro box under bonnet then branch off to start motor, alternator etc... atm im leaning towards going straight to the starter motor but ill suss it out when i get it to which is next step anyhow....
Sounds pretty logical to me, glad i havent plastered mine with that stuff, that's a big job by the way, i always lose shit when i start taking trim off, lmao
Go hard Chad. Look foreword to all the piks man... good luck with everything! Holler up a tech day we'll come down and give you a hand if u need... Elie
Chad, in your last thread you said how of upmost importance it was to remove even the air flap and dynamat it as it is crucial. Make up yr mind good job btw, I think I'm winning
i think he decided not to do that after all the shit we gave him. the pressure relief is staying and he's not going sick with dynamat to keep the weight down so it's not a heavy pig.
A bulk pack of dynamat would add like 20-25kg or so? A heavy pig would surely indicate added weight into the hundreds of kilos?? Considering the extra comfort it can add i dont think 20kg is a bad deal. Especially if the weight is added in the rear wheres its beneficial for handeling anyway? I cant speak for anyone else in the 2 seaters, but sitting above the rear wheel well, my road noise is considerable. Ive dynamatted the tops of the wheel wells for a good reason.
thanx guys ye i will shout out if i need a hand you are getting 2 things mixed up here. 1. as mentioned dynamat adds nothing other than add weight to a panel to reduce resonance. 2. it does not do ANYTHING else. it will not cure your road noise it will not make the car colder or warmer etc... the air flap is open to road noise. dynamat does not cure road noise. "sound proofing" does which is a whole different subject. you need mlv (mass loaded vinyl) to combat road noise etc... its a heavy loaded vinyl which blocks out sound... used in factories, buildings, even house walls.... so i wanted to remove the flap to combat the max road noise level i could. then i was going to sound proof the whole boot etc to combat as much road noise as i could... this is still going to be done but i will leave the flap in there and make a gap in the sound proofing so pressure can still escape... yes it will lessen my project in combating road noise but i guess i will see how much from just that little opening... dynamatting your wheel wells aint going to do jakkkk... as mentioned it does nothing else than add weight to a panel to lower the resonance it has. get some mass loaded vinyl and place it over your wheel wells and you will see a massive difference in sound.... i will be doing all this anyway so you will see what i am talking about soon. i will be sound proofing alot, whole boot, under the carpet, doors etc... mlv is heavy i will prob add an extra 30kg i think from that shit but im making an all rouder car. i mean i spend 95% on the rd and 5% on the track. plus the added weight will help with getting power to the ground easier since ill be hitting the 270-300~rwkw mark soon.... so im ok with it... lol yeah i still dont see a point in keeping it but i will just for the sake of saying err i told u ur window will crack etc mehhhhh.... in ref to weight i will be adding weight to the car. i think all up for wat im doing i will be adding around an extra 70kg or so... although i might just change to an n/a rear subframe in the future which will bring it down another 100kg anyway.... im compensating weight for ride quality atm... i want it to be an all rounder
I dont think your right there chad. The road nosie i was mentioned was particularly from sand being kicked up against the inside wheel arches and hitting the tinny arches, making a lot of noise. If you think that adding a barrier onto the tinny arches wont do 'jakk', i know you are mistaken. Plus your statement of 'adds nothing but weight' is not correct. A chime that is twice as heavy only chimes deaper. It adds rubber.. a vibration resistant. A lot of my factory isolation has degraded to the point where it is quite dusty and no longer a solid barrier. Refreshing the factory barrier will ofcouse help. The bottom line is unquestionable, if you can hear where the noise is coming from, particulary what panels are vibrating from one reason or another. Adding a rubberised barrier on it will reduce the noise. You notice noise from the transmission tunnel, wheel arches, under the rear lights where the exhaust exits, the doors and pillars. Im adding it everywhere i can hear are is noisiest. I guarantee it will assist.
if your talking about outside the car in the wheel arches then yes spray/brush on deadener is good in there. but if your talking about inside the car, sorry but have a good read of some technical information: http://www.cascadeaudio.com/blog/treating_road_noise.htm plus have a good read of this aswell: http://www.cascadeaudio.com/blog/Sound_Deadening_Fables.htm particularly no.6
Outside / Inside is the same thing. I know you have referenced a few accurate articals, and they are correct in what they say. But only applicaply in the way they say. Fill up an empty paint tin with sand. Shake it around.. noisy. Cover they outside OR the inside of the tin with rubber. Not so noisy. Apply what they say in the correct mannor. Road noise in the form of sand hitting the metal will vibrate the metal. Now weather you add a deadner or a sound absorber will both help. You are also correct in saying that it can be used in the correct mannor and not overdone with heaps of layers and covering everything. I got my information from very experienced car upholstry workshops. And they said it correct, use as much as you can. On the parts where you dont want to or cant, simply use a long strip wherever you can apply it, which will reduce the vibration. That is also correct. The stock car uses both vibration dampners and sound absorbers. Pretty much both of mine have weathered away to nothing.
kool, im not saying it wont do anything with what u have mentioned it will but to get optimal results best thing to do is spray/brush on deadener inside the wheel wells (outside the car). then apply some deadening ontop of the wheel wells (inside the car) and then some mlv ontop. this will surely combat the biggest range of frequencies transmitted. but ye doing some like you have mentioned will still do something just not as good p.s sand/little rocks hitting the inside of the wheel wells doesnt vibrate. that metal there will not flex. what you are referring to is the transmitted sound waves the metal gives off when the sand/rocks are hitting it. brush on some deadening to the wheel wells (outside the car) and you have the exact same thing you mentioned about the can
weight saving is hard. i've pulled out what i can and replaced things with lighter items and still only managed to shave off a mere 50kg. the spare tyre is only 15kg or so IIRC? i consider 20-25kg of dynamat a significant weight gain. difference in opinion. in japan a weight saving of 20kg earns the car a special edition sticker and they'll charge you more for it. e.g. Spec C STIs, RS EVOs, RZ RX7s etc etc.
few more things done... firstly motor antenna has been cancelled. i have used the top half of the motor antenna so that i can still have the hole looking as per normal. if i do respray the car in the future i will get that area filled up but for now itll look normal... i will be installing a normal non electric antenna which will be installed behind boot trim... and installed as per normal. not sitting flush as i just quickly screwed it in i still have to do some deadening in that area before i bolt it up properly... out with the old in with the new other than that a bit more deadening been done. and also started removing the heater box area etc as i need to remove everything in the area to fit a new wiring harness for the engine bay + few others things that need to be done there... slow but itll get there. in may i should get alot of work done. i have taken off every monday and fri in that month so should get heaps done...
lol i know i looked at it and said ahhh shit wat have i got myself into... ahh itll be all worth it, should be a very nice comfy ride once finished... i have thought about putting in a manual, but i dont have that at the top of my priority list...
this is the rubber ducky antenna i fitted. i got the paint off where i mounted it for a good connection. its hard to see where the rubber ducky is so i outlined it in green the way it is sitting. i did it this way so it doesnt bounce around and make noise. it shouldnt affect performance as the rubber isolates the internal wire for the antenna...
