! Help Lower Plenum Removal

Discussion in 'Technical' started by ross79, Oct 3, 2010.

  1. ross79

    ross79 Member

    Messages:
    612
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    I'm in the process of removing the lower plenum to fix a boost leak.

    I've removed the upper plenum and the cam covers.
    I know I can lock two nuts together to remove the idler pulley bolt.
    BUT
    How do I go about loosening the timing belt enough to slide the pulley and bolt out?? I can't get to the timing belt tensioner as it sits behind the lower cover. Then there is the problem of putting the pulley back in.
    Do I have to removed the harmonic balancer and cover behind it??
     
  2. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Messages:
    12,888
    Likes Received:
    368
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Removing the lower cover is the best way.
     
  3. a2zed

    a2zed Guest

    The correct way is to remove all the belt covers, lock off the tensioner and remove the belt, cam gears and rear covers.

    There is another way to do it, zip ties on the belt and gears to hold it all in place then double nut the idler stud, heat up the surrounding area and undo it but unless you are very confident doing it this way, don't even try it.
     
  4. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    Messages:
    8,092
    Likes Received:
    122
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Just pull the timing belt right off. No real point mucking around if you are digging that deep.

    I managed to unscrew that stud everytime i pulled a lower plenum. The thread locker that nissan put on it isnt very tough.
     
  5. ross79

    ross79 Member

    Messages:
    612
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Fair enough. Will pull it all off. Noticed the cam seal is leaking on the right bank :(
     
  6. ross79

    ross79 Member

    Messages:
    612
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Ok, got everything off, but having trouble removing the lower plenum.
    The vac / pcv lines that join the two heads run over the rear part of the plenum making it impossible to get out. Any advice?
     
  7. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    Messages:
    8,092
    Likes Received:
    122
    Trophy Points:
    63
    yes, bastard isnt it.

    I had to remove and delete my EGR to get the plenum off. Fortunately I already had the cooling lines removed.

    Keep stripping the layers off the onion.:)
     
  8. mafi-zed

    mafi-zed the resident hoon

    Messages:
    3,091
    Likes Received:
    16
    Trophy Points:
    0
    lol! perfect analogy of working on a z
    each layer brings new tears
     
  9. ross79

    ross79 Member

    Messages:
    612
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    I removed the EGR last time I had the engine out. Was hoping there is some trick to it that I'm not seeing.
     
  10. ross79

    ross79 Member

    Messages:
    612
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    All good, managed to finally remove it! Had to remove the fuel rail, then cut the metal joiners between the upper and lower metal vac lines and a LOT of bending to finally get it off.
     
  11. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    Messages:
    8,092
    Likes Received:
    122
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Yoiu may want to replace those PCV steel pipes with Silicon while you have the plenum out. This makes it way easier to get to all this crap later on,
     
  12. ross79

    ross79 Member

    Messages:
    612
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    How much are they and where can I get them from? Planning to get the car back on the road this weekend.
     
  13. MickW

    MickW Carntry member...

    Messages:
    1,033
    Likes Received:
    147
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Bendigo, central VIC
    If Ross can't source silicon hose of the right diameter in a hurry then wouldn't rubber hose be OK?
    Big enough internal diameter to shove the restrictors in plus tolerant of engine oil of course.

    In Castlemaine / Bendigo our choices are limited for "performance" parts in a hurry but industrial grade
    stuff is plentiful. Any recommendations on a type ~ grade of rubber hose?
     
  14. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    Messages:
    8,092
    Likes Received:
    122
    Trophy Points:
    63
    I imagine rubber would be fine. Mine was done by UAS before I got the car. There are no restrictors etc in the pipes and I havent noticed any ill effects by NOT having them.

    It means you can easily pull all that crap behind the engine out of the way fairly easily with all those hard pipes gone. The silicon is still pliable years after it was put in. Hope the rubber lasts that long.

    I even have lost those little steel vacuum joiner pipes behind there as well. You dont need a lot of them.

    The PCV pipe I have is quite big diameter. In fact the same as the outlets of the PCV's. Seems to nemd around the back of the engine OK. I actually out a r/t angle on the drivers side to help it around the back of the head.
     
  15. ross79

    ross79 Member

    Messages:
    612
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Thanks for the advice. Will have a bit of a play with it tonight. The restrictors were going to be my next question but you answered that.
     
  16. TWIN TERROR

    TWIN TERROR Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,105
    Likes Received:
    29
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Great i don't need the restrictors. I'm in the process of putting the lifters back in after a clean as was thinking of using hose between my new p.v.c's around the back as you describe. Gota love the dollar at the moment ( i bet coz do ).
    Cheers Dave
     

Share This Page