It's got just water in it now, after shredding that lower hose. I was under the impression nothing cooled better than pure water but it's not preferred as it leads to corrosion.
The thing with coolant is that it lowers the freezing point and raises the boiling point of the water. It also generally reduces the ability of the coolant to oxidise the metals within the engine. To run without coolant IMHO is totally without merit.
However the freezing and boiling points are irrelevant to the running temps in this case. I wouldn't be bothering with coolant until you believe you won't be having to drop the contents of your radiator again for a while or you are just wasting money. Having said that I wouldn't be leaving water in the system for longer than a couple weeks for the corrosion side of things.
These are my thoughts exactly. Once I figure this shit out and am sure I won't be dropping radiators and changing hoses I'll pump in some pre-mix.
Can somebody explain to me why it's no longer overheating with the OEM radiator, but still runs damned hot?
come to think of it my idle is dicking awful, coolant temperature sensor comes to mind? it seems pretty good on the readings though; when I blew the hose yesterday it went straight up very quickly
I made this today: Going to finish bleeding the radiator (since the hose blew) and take it out to be sure before reconditioning the viscous hub. Just doesn't make sense for it to have failed just sitting in my garage.
Reconditioning the hub isn't worth the stuff around IMO. Just buy a new OEM and look forward to 20 more years of cool running temps.
yet i run 65d max 70d on a themo fan plodding around the city... just saying... been on half a dozen projects where every scientist etc said "it wont work, it wont work, it wont work" we tried it anyway.... oh look it worked.
in top radiator pipe, you can see it spike when the thermo opens and then it drops down again what do you mean it wont let it run at 65?
Something's wrong there dude at 65* your thermostat won't be open... That number can't be accurate...
Update Removed AC condenser fan as I don't let the car get to 104*... this combined with the new front undertray has improved cooling greatly, but still no good. Car now has no issues at night, doesn't top 84*. Still gets up to 96* in the sun in traffic. Going to order a new viscous fan hub from CZP. Now that I understand them fully it seems like smart preventative maintenance if nothing else.
Is it possible the water was flowing too fast with the big radiator....maybe the coolant was not in contact with the radiator long enough to allow sufficient transfer of heat. Although obviously you still have a problem, but it has improved.
The coolant will only flow as fast as the water pump/pressure permits . The bigger radiator will only increase heat transfer due to large volume/area , unless there is a blockage . The only problem with bigger rad i see is if there is not enough airflow . Having FMIC will have some bearing on this . Imo Rad being bigger needs more air to be as efficeient at cooling as a smaller rad . But others run similar setup without issue so it probably doesnt have enough impact to create this much of a difference .