Thanks for the insite Andy. Makes sense. Do you recommend any particular brand?? Rollin, atm im hitting about 6psi at 3krpm n 16psi at about 4.4krpm on stock internals. I was under the impression that with this kind of motor build I should be spooling up quite a bit fast, hence more PSI at lower rev = more wheel spin down low. Am I under a false impression?? Thanks all!!
Yeah. Got the GT675RS (T2860RS) kits atm. Plan on running though's still. Dont you think they'll boost up faster after the build?? This is what its doing atm, well about 7months ago anyway. Running a little better now. So close to that.
there is no doubt that 4litres will spool a turbo faster than 3l, thats a fact, but it would be hard to put a finger on how much till you have the final build specs, cam, timing ,tuning and heaps of other stuff plays a part in spool times. 3000rpm is quite low for a high performance v6 to have tyre shredding torque, but then nobody has seen what a 4,0 can do so you never know
now this will be great to follow as im looking at purchasing one of these stroker kits. Im thinking of slightly smaller pistons not sure yet i will see how you go as when this kit is ordered from the actual place that makes them, they give you the choice in what size pistons you want at what compression. keep up the posts mate good to see you push the limits like this
Gotta admit that I had a serious think about the stroker kit, especially seeing as my motor is stripped right down already. In the end, the evil demon urging me to spend more money was beaten down .... I looked up the Darton (as mentioned in the seller's ad) website http://www.dartonsleeves.com/mainpage.htm, and whilst they have sleeves for Nissan blocks in there, the VG30 is not one of them. Maybe they have done them in the past, or as non-catalogue one-offs. One of the blocks they do work with is the VQ35DE, and I noted that thay will push that to a max of 100mm, against a stock bore of 95.5mm - only 4.5mm extra. OK it's a different block, and may have less to play with, but that didn't fill me with confidence that they could squeeze 10mm wider pistons into a VG30. I did find this page quite interesting - http://www.speedforceracing.com/index.php?productID=847 Eventually I decided I couldn't afford to take the risk (if there is one), of buying the kit, even if I was to go with the option of buying custom 87.5mm pistons to suit that crank and my block. My knowledge of such things is minimal, and I thought that converting a VG30 block with siamesed sleeves etc etc etc would be more than my wallet could bear. The evil spending demon did take some convincing though! I did note that there is an Darton agent for them in NSW - http://www.austrackmotorsport.com.au/, they may be worth a call, even if you are in Queensland. Alternatively, maybe an email to Darton about the kit, and whether or not they can supply sleeves to you for local fitment to your block. Best of luck with the project - I look forward to seeing it develop.
Do not do solid lifters unless you are prepared to the equivalent of a 100k service every 30k in order to do the valve lash setting. Better off with a hydraulic lifter setup with a wild cam for top end power. Also, on the reliability front, would not recommend the 4.0L option. The kit you bought can be used for <3.5L and give you a more reliable, robust engine with extra power to boot :zlove: Cheers Rob
Thanks 4 the links Mickey! Will do some reading up. I hear there are some good engine builders in North Melb too. Also have found a Darton sleeve rep here in Briz. I know what you mean about it feeling risky. There aint alot of easy to find info out there on this type of build, but hey. Worth a go I say. Will keep you posted. At this stage this build it looking like it will cost some fairly serious $$$ just on parts. So will be done in stages as piggy bank allows. Will do alot of the labour myself with mates, but some work will have to be out sourced. A mate had a V8 big block sleeved. Cost about $1600 for the sleeves. $2000 to get them fitted. Still waiting on quote for the VG build. Laterzzz
97mm bore is too much for a vg to handle reliably. The ability for the block to dissipate heat will be greatly reduced due to the ammount of material removed and almost halving the coolant capacity of the block itself. The structural strength will be almost non-existant. The squish area of the combustion chambers will cause alot of isues in tuning. The rod length to stroke ratio will be way out of proportion creating an inherantly unstable rotating mass. Heads, valves, turbos, throttle, plenum, ducting and cooling system will all require significant upgrades to work coherently. A safe and realistic maximum you should be looking at is 3.4L.
if you are really going to have 4 litres. hen get the GT28RS in 0.86 AR. That will suit the 2 litres a bit better.
I'm skecptical about the whole have to reshim solids every second day I've had them in a couple of 4AGE's, same design as the VG, and never had to reshim them on either motor (150,000k's on one, 240,000k's on the other). Unless your valveseats are eroding away or the shims are made of rubbish steel and are squishing I just don't see where they are going. I have heard that Tomei solid lifters have some trouble with their shims on SR20's due to soft shims. Hydraulic lifter's don't like high rpm either.
30,000km in a car purely designed for track and drift is fine, not such a big deal in my opinion. Even on a non-daily drive road car it's only once every 4 years or so.
Solid lifters all the way, I have hydraulics on mine with a high lift cam and they don't like it at all. In fact its looking like there may be some valve train harmonics. Kamaeri (sp?) make solid lifters I think and they may be adjustable ie no shims. Going to check them out myself.
Kameari solid lifters here http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Kameari-Solid-Lifter-Kit-Racing-Spec-VG30DETT-Z32-Fairlady-Z-58060 That price would be for a set I guess. And look at the pic, looks like they are mechanically adjustable to me. Anyone familiar with them?
i hate to say it man but I believe this sale you bought are parts that were not advertised as you think. Here is the true posting made by the original owner or is still the owner of these parts. http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f...-Drop---Fully-Built-Engine---Other-parts.html The rods shown on ebay are eagle rods. They aren't crower. I have a strong feeling you may have been duped. I did some forum research and found that JFRacing while his accounts seem to be consistant he's never offered this particular kit anywhere else online like he has all the other for sale items he has. I'd be VERY weary about what you get once you receive it. All of this you have just bought may be off the shelf parts with a stock crank. Pay attention to the original sale on tt.net. The JFRacing for sale add just copied and pasted the literature from the original sale to his on ebay.
