Hi guys, aiming for 500+ RWHP, not to laggy and roughly 7 to 7.5k peak rpm. I've got a forged bottom end, heads are getting a clean up inside, 5 angle valve seats, double valve springs. Looking at options for cams, turbo selection, engine management and gearbox options. Thanks
Double valve springs ? 500rwhp you are after 2860 turbos Nistune at the least ecu No oversize valves?? Zeds redline 7k anyway The zed gearbox is more than enough for it you don't need anything after market
Yeah not happening, not in this country atleast. American dyno results from my experience are 9-10% HIGHER than ours. Realistic max for stock turbos would be around the 450rwhp mark, and thats wringing the life out of them.
This, especially with all the work you've already got done. If you want, 98ron will also do the job, but E85 is the way to go. Will obviously need a tune no matter what option you go.
Yes I've read this http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=326994&highlight=flex+fuel In a dedicated racecar maybe but not for a streetcar - not until you can get it at 60% of servos in the city and out in the country along the major highways between cities $1.30 per liter plus 20% (extra consumption) is nearly the same as ULP ULP isnt corrosive E85 is E85 isnt consistant from the pump either by the sounds of it
Get a Haltech and run a flex tune then. Can run both 98 and E85. Tune will vary depending on octane rating in the fuel.
United E85 is. I have contacted them directly and they say it doesn't change. They wouldn't be able to advertise it as E85. Black Beast has been running it in his Zed with a ethanol sensor, he claim it sits on 84%. I plan to tune my car on the United E85 fuel Only the Caltex fuel flex crap that changes ethanol %.
Madcow what are you going to do when you have to drive out of town and no e85 available or a fluctuating content (e70) I wouldn't believe what a company tells you I'd independently test what comes out of the pump.
See here: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1395963 I wouldn't be sitting on the craziness of needing every bit of ron I could get, that is crazy. If you are that concerned get a ethanol % reader. I have posted links up previous to them, if you see the % drop, say off boost til you get it fixed.
Thanks for the responses guys, looking at staying auto, I've looked here and the net regarding the re4ro3a and no definative answer on rough cost and mods to hold 500+HP and live, potentially looking at manual valve body, any thoughts? Opinions? So I'm thinking better off using factory cams (auto or manual?) And spending the extra money on larger valves, will 1mm larger valves make any real difference considering the price of them (most sets I've seen are near on $1000). I'm going to need valvs anyway as the one in the motor will likely be bent but I do have two spare motors here for parts. Going to have to run petrol coz e85 isn't readily available here in WA and I'm not paying race fuel prices. Still considering lpg , I have a Complete gas research system here to suit 1000hp turbo blow thru but I'm thinking of saving that for a big blow thru v8 setup down the track. Also, will high flowed stock housings with gt28r cores achieve 500hp + atw? I can't find any that have but have found 1 or 2 threads on here that hint it might be possible. if not does anyone know of any 2860 kits for sale
Gearbox is good. Contact mv automatics in south Australia. They are the best at these autos Use manual cams United e85 is awesome I drive mine alot now and never had a problem. Don't believe all the bullshit. Eflex would be better saying that. I like the z1 gtx2867 kit the most. Conceptzperformance for turbos. It's all in the tune though really so make sure you know what's up. All the parts don't mean anything if it aint tuned right.
+ 1 for mike at MV automatics in SA to do the 403A box ... I got mine done , full manual , billet servos , Kevlar bands , and all the good stuff he suggested also got a 3K stall .. can still drive on the highway no dramas Mike can organise freight too .. drop it off at your local star track depot and it will be sent back
OS Valves Was thinking about also going OS valves but after reading this might spend the money on Port Work and Port Coatings as the priority. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1113946/Additional-Head-Porting-Observations.html
Stock valves Pump gas Stock fuel pump Stock FPR and Damper Easily passes bi-annual emissions tests http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=320336
Dragging up an old thread to save making a new one as I'm asking the same question but different parameters. Using good low km S2 engine and highflowed HKS 2560 turbos (with 2860 CHRA I believe), AMS manifolds, whatever injectors are needed, full 3" exhaust from turbos, probably do E85 flex as a precaution, Adaptronic ECU most likely. Not going to do rods, pistons or any of that noise. Do I need to bother with ARP studs or rod bolts or anything else for that matter? As long as it makes something starting with a 5 at the wheels I'm happy. What have I forgotten, what else do I need to do.
I have an unopened factory motor, with similar setup, no ARP anywhere. Id do a fuel pump, and pressure reg - prob not a bad idea to upgrade wiring to the pump Change the fuel hoses to something eth safe. I went for the dual intake, Stillen type. did some sidemounts. That's about it really. Made 330rwkw on 16psi on E85
