So your saying that bolt holes and bolted position from shaft can be different . So basically can be not aligned properly causing vibration/balance issues ?
You are checking the assembly & manufacturing tolerances. The frequency of the vibration will indicate whether it is driveline related.
This is all great info guys... Seems promissing as I bet they would of just bolt up my shaft in any ol' position... Should I get a balancing shop to do the clocking for me? Is there an adjustment for backlash or is this slop from years of teeth wear?
and I read that Cam has had everything (including that) checked, except the rear subframe bushes and the four diff bushes. He really should do those. I don't think Cam has mentioned if this vibration occurs first drive in the morning, or only after he has been around the block. Assuming Cam has changed his diff oil since getting his car with something suitable for limited slip diff, why not try a different weight oil and then could he reasonably expect the vibration to change to a different speed, if it is definitely diff related? BTW, you might consider getting one of those magnetic diff plugs
So I went to a drive shaft guy today to get a second opinion on the vibrations. He jacked the rear up and stuck her into drive... Fair enough, you can see the shaft wobble by eye!! so basically I'm not too surprised because the drive shaft place had to quickly redo the shaft on Friday (the day I had to get my car back), because it was 2inches too long! So they would of rushed the job... Even the bloke that I saw today said he knows the place and was surprised they did work like this lol Now he was telling me that he has no idea why everyone wants to ditch the two piece shaft and go one piece? Why do we? I basically followed the crowed in this case thinking that it got rid of the vibrations that a two piece is known for... He continues to say that two piece shafts where/are used on all modern cars because of safety reasons... A two piece shaft can rev much higher than a one piece with out destoying it's self and flying up through the floor! lol he has been building shafts for race cars and also some local drift car team (started with J or something?) and they all use a two piece because of this reason. He tells me a one piece is a very old design in shafts and why would a company spend millions on designing a car and then stick a two piece shaft in if they are apparently no good? Also he says that a one piece can be harder to balance due to the overall length... Can I get more background from you guys as to why you all change to a one piece? I basically want to know now if I should go back to a two piece or get this one piece sorted by the drive shaft place it was built. Thanks
The OEM Nissan two piece drive shaft in not serviceable apart from changing the centre bearing. Therefore it is much more economical to go for a one piece shaft, than to purchase a replacement through Nissan.
But you can always get a two pice made for about $500... I've now learnt that even the v8 supercars use a two piece lmao
the number of components required to make a 2 piece shaft vs a 1 piece the reason is purely financial for most. not to mention the issues of replacing flogged out bearings.
Weight and cost mostly, 90% sure I will be getting a one piece, the other 10% is telling me to get a 2 peice made up.
Well I'm getting the place to fix up their job on the one piece they made... I may sell it on and make a two piece up (all new components) I already have a quote for $500. I'm actually not too fussed as to what shaft I have so im 50/50 atm.... I just want to get rid of the vibes!
$500 for a new two piece shaft?? A steel one piece shaft costs anywhere upwards of $600 using all new parts from a shop that uses decent hardware and knows what they're doing. A two piece shaft has twice as many welds, twice the unis and two shafts to straighten and balance. I can't see how you can get a decent job dine for $500...
Dean you should be able to get an ultra strong one piece for the cost of a two piece. Use a catch loop for added security. Two piece would if course be ideal but they get very expensive once you start upping the specs...
Really? There is more work involved in fabricating a two piece tail shaft compared to a one piece, consequently this will be reflected in the price. When you return your tail shaft for repair, ask them what they consider an acceptable amount of run out is. According to the Nissan Factory Service Manual, it is 0.024", this is the maximum value, print the relevant page & take it with you. Get them to "clock" the shaft once it is repaired, balanced & installed, the run out should be less than 0.024".
Well I didn't get into full details with the guy but yeah he said $500 for a two piece... He has done quite a few two piece conversions so I'm sure he knows what to quote. I won't be getting it made at that place anyway if I go back to two piece but ill ask for another quote at the original drive shaft place for comparison.
Makes a person wonder why we are paying so much for a one piece with half the components and half the welds.......
So im onto a good deal with the driveshaft shop.... He will kit up a two piece shaft with new everything for just the cost (to him) in parts... In other words, wholesale prices. This is instead of trying to balance up the one piece that has my old uni's and such. The decision is purely for peace of mind, I now know I will have the oem shaft in that was designed for the job with new uni's and bearing
Sounds good! I'm sure there will be other forum members interested in this product at a retail price of around $500.00.
Sunday like you're onto a winner just make sure they're using decent components and that each shaft is balanced and checked for rumour as Graham said.
