So I've been tackling every bump and rattle in my Z to make it feel as new and comfortable as possible :zlove: I have replaced engine mounts (OEM), trans mount (OEM) and recently I got a one piece shaft put in. Now I've had this vibration since I've owned the old girl, but I could never find it, a balancing shop balanced my two piece shaft with a new bearing, checked my CV's and couldn't find it.... So I could only assume it was still the two piece. But since getting the one piece in, it is still there, if not worse than before. It's a definite vibration from the rear, (Before it wasnt so localised). I've had my wheels balanced and wheel bearings checked also. It's speed related and would start around 70km/h (but is very light), and gradually becomes worse....you almost don't feel safe going over 110km/h So with considering all of the above wtf???? If I've replaced every major cause and have had it all checked out with nothing found, what could it be? The last thing I can think of is the rear sub mounts & diff mounts.... Worth a shot? What's your thoughts on my next move?
I got to a similar stage with my old na, though I also did the subframe and diff bushes. I think it was gearbox/clutch related. Never did nail it down. Sold the car less driveline
I've always been told there isn't much that can vibrate in a diff, sure I know it's spinning also but even the expert today said so. And I've been told my CV's are good.... Maybe a second opinion?
My diff is ****ed, howls over 50kmh. Not game to even try 70-100. There's plenty of potential to go wrong in a diff.
I've always thought I've had extra play in my diff. When the auto is in its cruise gear I guess at 60km/h, if you let off the throttle you will get a clunk from the rear... Does this mean I need a new pinion and ring gear or is there an adjustment that could be made? My diff doesn't make any whinging, ir usual buggered diff noises in any situation.
It's preferable to do it on a hoist, but it can be done on car stands. You'll require a dial indicator with a magnetic base. Basically you mount the dial indicator & rotate the tail shaft & measure the run out at 90 degree increments, hence the term clocking, like the 12,3,6 & 9 o'clock positions on a clock face. This can be done on the four universal caps on the uni's as well.
