From an engine cooling point of view? Nothing but cons. From an intake charge cooling point if view? Well that's a different story. System of compromises isn't it?
Well I think the compromise can be safely made if my clutch fan is stuffed and I can run around at 90*c on a 35*c day, just due to the addition of ducts. It will be interesting to see how much further the temps drop with a decent clutch.
I do recognise that a compromise must be made, though... I'd have never put an FMIC on there if one didn't come up cheap and my front bar wasn't hideous, lol. It's on there now and I just have to find the happy medium.
Hey Rob260 it is strange your car runs cooler without that large vented grill? Maybe you have a pressure issue, might need a custom divider. Was there any other changes done at the time? GTR's have a grill that sits above the intercooler which lets a lot of air directly onto the radiator, if this is blocked off it would run hotter.
Hi John -nope no other mods. Andrew reckons Porsche had similar results when they ran vented grills and you get better ram air effect with the solid panel
Doesn't sound right to me either .. Grille will only increase the pressure in front of the radiator which is a good thing ( unless it's bouncing escaping elsewhere) Very soon after my bodywork I Will be making a simple AirTray running to the top half of radiator through nose panel totally separating the FMIC Air which will run to the bottom half
Or bouncing out I dunno, we can hypothesise 'til we're blue in the face but the guy who reccomended it is rarely wrong (JP will back me up on that one) and so far the proof has been in the pudding. Trays/ducting etc can only help, but I'm starting to look at that kinda stuff as confusing the issue. I'll be my car that if I went back to 42mm radiator and clutch fan it'd drop running temps right down (even when giving it a bootfull) without any extra vents, ducts etc
Well when I ran without a nose panel it shaved 10c off my temps, I'm sure a vented one would be beneficial in most circumstances.
My belief is the only problem with getting air in and thru the radiator on a Zed is that it needs to be able to flow on thru which with the congested engine bay is a hard ask. Lift the rear of the bonnet or vent it. Also some take the back bonnet seal out.It's like farting in to a bottle compared to farting into a tube
You said your old man was alright with panelwork and spraypainting. Check out what Black Beast has done with his UAS bar: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1325617&postcount=476
Static air (stationary) will be at standard atmospheric pressure for the day in that location, this is the air that will be entering the openings in the front of the bumper. Air that is moving looses pressure, the faster it moves the less pressure it has and when you make it stretch out over the top of curves etc (IE over a bumper and up to a nose panel) it will loose more pressure (we all know how aeroplane wings work right?). SO when you have high(er) pressure air coming in the front via the bumper but then a lower pressure area up by the nose panel ............... We are all smart enough to see what's going on yeah? granted the UAS panel has slots and guides that you would think would help force air in - might not work quite the way we expect though aye. As for kawas situation, with no under tray and a bad fan clutch with a FMI - most of us know how that will end.
what you have all forgotten, is that incoming air generally wont just PUSH its way through a radiator if its being shoved full face on through the air. If you look at most fmic and radiator installs the opening is smaller than the frontal area of the coolers. The idea is that as the air goes past the opening the volume becomes bigger this slows the air down and allows it to push through the cooler at a slower speed. Dont get misled by thinking a bigger opening to the incoming air is best. It isnt. In a properly ducted system as in a FMIC. The volume of area behind the FMIC and before the radiator MUST be bigger to slow the air down before it goes through the radiator. Thats why the flat stock nose cone works. My old car with the properly ducted FMIC and stock radiator did not show any tendancy to over heat. Half the reason that bar doesnt work properly is the sides are open and lets the air bypass the cooler instead of forcing it through. ie: high pressure at the front of the cooler and lower pressure down the sides. Bugger all going through. Do it properly or dont do it at all. See how small the openings for the SMIC's are in the Simtec front air dam? Its like that to give the air time to slow down before pushing through the coolers
WHAAAAAATTTT??? :rofl::rofl: It's not a supersonic jet :rofl: The more air that goes through the radiator/cooler the better end of story, more turbulence is better also as it creates more air to surface contact and therefore better cooling. To get more air flowing you need more pressure to get more pressure you need more speed to create a pressure differential between the front and the back. You DO NOT want to try and slow the air down before it goes through the coolers at all that's an internet myth, you want to make sure you get all the air in front of the cooler as higher pressure as you can & the air behind it as lower pressure as possible. Yes yes I know static air has a higher pressure than lower air but lets not confuse shit, the more air that moves through the coolers the cooler they will be end of story. Installations that see the coolers mounted at an angle to the airflow work well due to creating a lot of turbulent flow through the matrix and therefore more air to surface contact. In ANY cooler baffle/duct design the goal is to create a situation where the air flow has no option other than to pass through the matrix of the cooler, the only time we want to reduce the amount of air flow through the matrix is when the cooling system is far to efficient IE: trucks driving around in snow or V8 Supercars in cooler climates, aircraft operating in super cold climates etc. As far as Z32s go there is no way in hell you want to try and reduce air flow to any of the coolers.
this part I wasn't sure about but makes sense .. fitting my oil coolers in the SMIC and might be at a slight angle which concerned me . still prefer straight on/through air flow though for cooling . .
