Project Pics Take 2

Discussion in 'Z Re-builds' started by rob260, Dec 30, 2013.

  1. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    One last bottom end piece before machining/test fitting/etc starts; EP racing 8 quart oil pan. With larger oil cooler and lines etc this should bring oil capacity up to around 9 liters, and incorporates some useful features such as windage kit, baffles and trap doors.

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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2017
  2. SrAfciGeR

    SrAfciGeR Member

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    I donno about this one man... It looks cool but I don't understand why would you wanna increase oil capacity by hefty 4L?
    Else I don't like those bolts in there... That mash could of been welded. As there is "slight" possibility that those bolts can get loose in there, and you wouldn't wont that...
     
  3. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Up-sides better cooling and more consistent oil supply, there aren't any down sides. All the windage kits that Moroso make are bolt on; I don't think there's any more risk of those bolts coming loose than the bolts in the pickup for example.
     
  4. rollin

    rollin First 9

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    A downside would be longer oil warm up time on a street car
     
  5. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

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    So some kind of thermostat bypass could be designed into the extra capacity?
     
  6. SrAfciGeR

    SrAfciGeR Member

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    Ok more consistent oil supply is always a good thing no doubt.

    However if that's my engine I would got rid of those 6mm bolts and tack weld that mash in there, as well as pick up line bolts... In case that engine is gonna rev hard...
     
  7. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Yeah I guess so -long past daily driver duties though and can limit rpm etc against oil temps in the ECU.,
     
  8. rollin

    rollin First 9

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    Yeah it's not so much a downside as it is a minor inconvenience. A lot of pros though
     
  9. badxtc

    badxtc kirby's bitch

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    I think its a catch 22 when it comes to either welding or bolting them on. Ive seen weld come apart . I still think locktite is the safest way to go.
    The more oil the better hands down i believe. It may take a little longer to reach temp. But thats nothing when the ecu can control total power out vs temp.
    Robs on the money with this project.
     
  10. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

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    Any more clues to what happened to your motor?? Why bother changing Rods tho ?
     
  11. badxtc

    badxtc kirby's bitch

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    Great work rob. That bonet looks great as well come up a lot better then mine.
     
  12. BLACK BEAST

    BLACK BEAST SLICKTOP TT R-SPEC

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    Looking good Rob


    .
     
  13. AndyMac

    AndyMac Better than you

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    VG's small oil capacity has always been a problem for consistent supply and cooling when driving...spiritedly, especially in Aus heat. Only drawback is weight, and 10L down low is no real drawback.
     
  14. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    Bring the sump around to mine and we'll tack those bolts in place in 5 minutes
     
  15. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Sent the (not that) old bottom end off to its new home yesterday. Hopefully it will pop in somebody else's build thread somewhere down the track.

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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2017
  16. badxtc

    badxtc kirby's bitch

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    good work rob .
    even tho you we sell our old setups , i cant help but feel a little pain when they go , even tho we know we a headed for bigger and better things , sometimes it hard to let go , i know my old engine went to a good home and i can go see her anytime i want , but yeah micky is treating her good , so im happy about that .
     
  17. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Had some time to muck around with a cam sync kit today.

    When using a missing tooth crank trigger like the one I have the ECU can fairly well disregard any information from cam position as cylinder position and firing order can be derived from counting the crank teeth (with the missing tooth designating when to start counting again). This is much better than relying on a crank and cam signals as it if more accurate and no possible interference from belt flap etc.

    However... because the crank turns twice per four cylinder strokes the ECU still needs the cam position on startup to determine which cylinder(s) or on intake or exhaust strokes.

    One solution is to fit an aftermarket disc to the CAS that has a single "home" trigger point. An alternative is to remove the CAS entirely and replace it with a trigger and sevsor unit, which is what I have done.

    Pics below show test fitting a Ross kit to a motor I'm working on. All seems to be good and in this configuration with cam signal will trigger when cylinder 1 is at TDC on the intake stroke. With minor alteration it would be possible to have the trigger signal fire at 15*BTDC although this could also be achieved in the ECU via compensation adjustment, or in my case it doesn't matter as Ignition timing will be determined via crank position.

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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2017
  18. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    A few head bits and pieces coming together. I've had these parts for a while; I'm trying to be more diligent with documenting the process now that things are in motion.

    Tomei head gaskets again.

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    Tomei lifters & shims.

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    Custom cam shafts from JUN. These are pretty cool being a completely new profile they manufactured to suit the lift & duration that I asked for. More on that when I find out how they perform. I feel very privileged to have had them (JUN) do this work for me.

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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2017
  19. badxtc

    badxtc kirby's bitch

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    looking great rob , can wait to see this thing ,

    ( i know what your doing mister )

     
  20. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Some pics of the heads before I dropped them off for servicing today. Lots of carbon... The shop I dropped them to thinks that the air leakage is most likely caused by carbon buildup on the valves, which is in turn caused by the volume of oil it has been consuming.

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    I measured up the valves too and it appears they are .5mm oversize, not 1mm oversize which I had asked for and paid for. For reference a 1mm oversize valve should be 35mm on the intake side and 30.5mm on the exhaust side. EDIT part numbers confirm that they are 1mm oversize, just beaten to shit.

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    Anyway will wait and see what the diagnosis leads too. Provided the seats and guides are ok the rest of the valvetrain assembly appears in good shape and it shouldn't take much to get the heads back to 100%.

    The porting etc looks good but yeah the amount of shit in those chambers it really doesn't look like a 20,000km old assembly.

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    At this stage I can't help but wonder how it might have run on 6 cylinders :confused:
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2017

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