Oil Filter Relocation

Discussion in 'Z32 Technical' started by Boll!, Jun 14, 2018.

  1. Boll!

    Boll! Member

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    Hi All.
    Im wanting to relocate the oil filter to another position.
    I know the BDE relocation block is available, but im wondering if there is another avenue to go down.
    Keep in mind i wont have a turbo in the way, so size is probably not a great issue.

    Cheers.
    Col
     
  2. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

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    Spin on "take off plates" readily available everywhere, I got mine from motorsports connection in Sydney. I've got a spin on plate with downward facing ports and 90 deg fittings sending the hose across to the chassis rail, over the cross member and forward to the nose panel cavity similar to stock TT routing. I think with a sandwich plate+cap you can send the lines straight forward past the engine mount.

    If it's NA I would question why you're relocating though, stock position is quite convenient, my set up was to add a proper oil cooler and thermostat.
     
  3. Boll!

    Boll! Member

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    Ok, cool, so It attaches to the oil filter tree or the block?
    Not an NA, single turbo set up and am modifying the sump with another wing out the drivers side.
     
  4. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    The BDE piece replaces the entire tree -I’m going to use one to gain clearance with an aftermarket oil pan. You can also use a short NA oil tree and takeoff plate like tom suggested, or there’s an adapter (and I’ll look it up if you’re really keen) that fits up the tree and sits the filter off on a right angle.
     
  5. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    75ED2AC8-9FDD-424D-BDD9-1563CD140776.jpeg 5348899C-4E1F-45F0-8172-7E93C355DE74.jpeg A95B78D2-5D15-4BF3-8A32-5EF95E20E59F.jpeg
    You can see what I mean in these pics
     
  6. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

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    They screw onto the filter fitting on the tree, thread on the VG is 3/4UNF. You can also replace the stud that connects the tree to the block with a threaded one then screw take off plates straight onto the block, I haven't tested it but would look to RB30e and VG30e engines for a threaded stud. Also, US engines have different filter trees to our jdm and aus engines, their TT is about the same length but goes straight down rather than angling towards the rear and the NA unit is much shorter than the USTT and RHD trees, also going straight down.

    Note that if you remove the filter tree or use a USNA tree you no longer have filter bypass valves so if the filter gets blocked you get no flow, with appropriate warnings or ECU based pressure sensing this can be a better system though.
     
  7. Boll!

    Boll! Member

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    Thanks Rob.
    Ideally I would like to relocate the filter all together.
    And having a modified sump I’m not sure if the NA tree and take off plate will still be too big.
    The BDE piece might have to be the way to go.
     
  8. Boll!

    Boll! Member

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    Thanks Fists.
    That’s one thing I wasn’t aware of.
    So without the tree, and bypass valves, is it important where the oil pressure sender gets mounted?
    I was thinking in a line to or from a remote mount oil cooler.

    Cheers
     
  9. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

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    Pressure sensor is basically always mounted after the filter, the stock port on the passenger side oil line is pretty good as it's a way down the line so you'll see most blockages as a pressure drop there. With a single turbo set up you can use the drivers side oil feed as a dedicated pressure sensor port. Before the filter could still be useful as you'll see huge pressure there if it blocks but harder to set warnings that don't go off on cold starts. There's also filters available with internal bypass valves but they tend to give you filthy oil if activated so an ECU that enters limp mode with low pressure is probably safer.
     
  10. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

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    As fists suggested if changing the tree you need to be aware of the bypass valves. These bypass oil to the filter if the oil pressure is too high, to prevent the filter from collapsing. If the option you go with doesn't have a bypass valve you should choose a good filter that includes a bypass valve built in.

    I went down this path also as we built a modified sump with baffles and 'wing' out the drivers side. I looked into the whole US version, even bought one off eBay, decided instead the best option was a Moroso adapter that bolts onto the existing tree with a centre bolt on the existing filter 'stud' and then has fittings exit out sideways.

    I still haven't fitted any of this up as finding somewhere I'm happy to put the filter, plus trying to get hoses past all the steering / engine mounts was just too big a pita. Plus I didn't want to go full flow on the oil cooler, wanted to retain the existing factory pressure bypass.

    To date I haven't had any issues with oil pressure with the stock setup (just a bigger oil cooler up front) at Bathurst, WP or Eastern Creek.
     
  11. Boll!

    Boll! Member

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    I was going to use the passenger side port for the turbo oil feed as it’s been mounted on that side, it there any reason why I couldn’t tee that line with a pressure sensor? Their is only 1 port on the passenger side yeah?
    You wouldn’t happen to know what thread is into the block?
    Cheers
    Col
     
  12. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

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    Stock passenger side has a hardline with a union block in it near the engine mount which the stock pressure sender fits to before another hardline leading up to the turbo. I think the port in the block is M10 off the top of my head, it has a banjo bolt in it for the hardline.
     
  13. Boll!

    Boll! Member

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    Thanks Shane.
    Do you have a link for that Moroso item?
    Where you bolting it up to the NA it TT tree?
    Cheers
     
  14. Boll!

    Boll! Member

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    I have little or actually no OEM sensors on this engine, so it’s a clean slate.
    I’ll try and utilise that port for both the pressure sensor and oil feed
     
  15. MagicMike

    MagicMike Mod and Event Coord [QLD] Staff Member

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    While we are semi talking about sensors... I've been accumulating bits to make sure I have everything I need when I swap the sump over to the specialty Z sump.

    Currently I have a set of Defi gauges which aren't fed to the ECU, but I do want oil pressure and temp to go there so I can set up all the safety limits etc. While looking at a way to simplify the number of sensors and adaptors off the filter tree, I found that bosch make a pressure and temp sensor in one. It's quite a small unit also which is good, and very reasonably priced. Biggest issue is it is a 10x1mm thread.

    Bosch part number 0261230340

    https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-pressure-and-temperature-sensor
     
  16. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

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    23682 Moroso Universal Remote Oil Filter Adapter, 3/4"-16 thread and 2-5/8" O-ring

    I plan to use the factory TT tree as I want to retain the stock pressure bypass (if I ever get around to installing it lol)
     
  17. Boll!

    Boll! Member

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    OK, So the more i read about oil filter relocation, Full flow systems, Oil filter trees - Etc. The more im confusing myself.

    A few questions:
    1. Both Jspec TT and Aus spec NA oil filter trees have the bypass valves built in? Are these the ball bearings in the bottom?

    2. The TT oil filter tree has the Tee off it that goes to the oil cooler? Is this temperature activated? and the Aus spec NA has the same thing but plugged up?

    3. The TT block does not have bypass valves but the NA block does? Again, are these the ball bearing things?

    I will leave it that for now.
    Cheers
     
  18. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

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    1: yes and yes
    2: TT cooler is a pressure operated bypass and and the return hose from the cooler to the sump has a restrictor to limit flow. Off the top of my head I think it opens at 50-60psi, around 3krpm with a 40 weight oil at 90C. The cooler fitting is not on the NA tree, not sure off the top of my head if it's a different cast or just cut off but it's not there, there's a port beside it with a 1/8" bsp thread on both NA and TT JDM and aus engines.
    3: Only US market (maybe Europe) NAs have the bypass check balls in the block, all JDM and aus engines have these ports plugged.
     
  19. Boll!

    Boll! Member

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    Thanks Fists.
    So the ball bearing check valves are their to bypass the filter if oil pressure gets too high?
     
  20. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

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    Exactly.

    Key point with the TT setup, oil pressure over 50/60psi goes to the oil cooler and then straight back to the sump. With most full flow systems, all oil pressure goes to the block. This is why I'm not going full flow.
     

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