I plan to update this thread in 4 or so stages, stage 1&2 will cover the removal of old leather, with stage 3&4 covering the actual retrim. The kit I am using is not one of the recent group buy items, but was purchased off a member. NB this installment covers only removal of leather off the passenger side seat, and the backrest section only. Future installments will cover the butt-rest, and the drivers side seat is basically the same. Part 1- removing leather from passenger seat back-rest The seat I am using is off my NA- a S2 (1993) slicktop with a real neat little electric passenger seat. This is the least damaged of the 2 seats: First step was to remove the seat. Basically 4x14mm fasteners (2 bolts up front, 2 nuts/spring washers at the rear). Be sure to unplug 2x electrical connectors to remove the seat. Push it up and forward to free it. Once in the 'workshop', the seat needed to be free of trim parts on the backrest. This is basically a plastic lever and trim covering piece on each side. Removal was with a screwdriver to prise the lever out like so: The trim piece comes out easily, but has two little barbs along the long side, which need to be coerced out. Flathead screwdriver works well here too: [yt]Z6S1eV_0uIw[/yt] To get to the hinges for the backrest, there are a few small phillips screws that need to be undone to get to the inner workings of the hinge: Passenger side seat, door side hinge: Passenger side seat, Centre console side hinge: The centre console side has a funky little clip that needs to be manouvred free. Pretty easy to spot when you are there doing it yourself. When working with plastic trim pieces, it's very much a delicate job. Most of the stuff I like to do is mechanical, where a bigger hammer and some heat will free anything up. With this though, its a matter of looking, feeling, and working out how it all fits together, then going gently until the job is done. [Insert joke about the missus here]. The hinge mechanism has these nifty captive c-clips. These are just pushed off with a flat head screwdriver, leaving you with the hinge: [yt]mYk8NnZq1rw[/yt] Before The hinges and back-rest are seperated from the butt-rest, ensure that all cables for seat electrics are disconnected. In my case it was 2 connectors, and 1 wire loom which ran up thru the hinge section (thru a plastic channel). Cut any fasteners here: The next step is to remove the headrest. The headrest covers the top 2 rows of hog rings which hold the leather to the metal seat frame. There is also a plastic trim piece that covers this, so that all is hidden while the headrest is at full extension. The headrest has 2 levers- one for adjustment and the other for full removal. the removal tab is hidden deep in the crevaces of leather, and needs to be simply pushed in while the headrest is lifted out. The trim piece posed a bit of a difficulty in removing, mainly due to the fact that it has little tabs that lock under the leather folds at the top, and is also a press fit on the bottom headrest adjustment tube. This is all shown in this video: [yt]f7RJ6GUc2ck[/yt] So now the seat is free of all trim parts, and has the headrest removed. Basically now the seat only has the metal frame, springs and foam inserts, all covered by a leather skin. The leather skin is secured with little metal circular staples called c-rings or 'Hog rings'. These are super tuff and don't wear down with friction from bouncing up and down on the seat. Best plan of attack to remove them is with a pair of sidecutters. Just a tip for young players... get some decent sharp side cutters. The ones I used were cheap chinese shit, which didn't make it an easy job... especially while holding a camera phone in the other hand. So excuse the shakes I get when squeezing it in the following vids As a side note, I am a big fan of 'functional training' and in particular grip strength training. Currently capable of 8 reps of a 'captains of crush #3 gripper, rated at 195 lb (88kg) compression... so that helps a little. Those of you with little girly forearms might need some more training before attempting this job :rofl: Here is a video of the hog rings behind the head rest and what we are now left with: [yt]ZyuiMizQpOs[/yt] I did find in some areas of the seat, that the hog rings can be bent out instead of cutting them. Other areas do not allow this, as the hog rings go thru the metal rails in the foam backing of the seat, and might damage it. It will work however where there is a solid mounting point on the hog ring and seat frame: [yt]BkX_m-piEpk[/yt] Random pics of top headrest after hog ring removal, and bottom backrest 'pad' securing points The back rest part of the seat has 2 main parts- the back rest 'pad' and the bolsters on each side. The back rest pad has a leather flap attached with hog rings to a moulded foam piece with inbuilt metal attachment rails. This looks rather flimsy, and needs careful attention when removing the hog rings [yt]s568Mm5rOg0[/yt] Backrest pad pulled away, hog rings evident both on the underside of the pad, and on the material sections of the bolster, attached to the metal springs. The next step is to undo all visible hog rings, and get ready to pull away the leather from the seat. The following video shows this process, with a bit of disruption from the mobile dog wash guy and some bad camera work trying to get a camera phone to balance for a shot Nevertheless, the show must go on... [yt]2uxnwcLFi2E[/yt] The final installment shows the removal of the leather, and some ideas for the next stage of the retrim. The back pad looks like a toungue on a pair of shoes, I just fed it back thru the headrest hole, then the whole cover can be pulled off, while pulling the leather off the metal clips on the bottom of the seat near the hinge point. [yt]OwYzagOf-qQ[/yt] Well, that's about it for this installment, stay tuned for the butt-rest section leather removal in the coming days, and the actual retrim in the weeks ahead.