Another manual conversion - Progress and Questions

Discussion in 'Z32 Technical' started by noel0leon, Aug 24, 2016.

  1. IB

    IB ?????

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    Take out the heater core and tap and pressure test them. All you need are a couple of irrigation fittings and a garden hose to test by yourself.
     
  2. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Woohoo got the clutch pedal and master cylinder in yesterday!
    Amazing hiw quickly things go when you have a second pair of hands to help.
    A few things did go wrong:

    Got sold the wrong clutch master... It looks like a mirror to my one so it could be one for the US market? I'm not sure.
    Second thing is that the clutch fork throw out bearing looks wrong as well... Will post pics this week to compare
     
  3. Fists

    Fists Active Member

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    So is now the right time to tell you that the pedal needs to be out to get the heater core out?
     
  4. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    I've decided to just get it driving first then deal with the heater core. We may be moving house so i need the car to be mobile first and foremost.
     
  5. Cheddle

    Cheddle New Member

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    You can definitly get the pedal in with the dash still in. just remove the panels/air tubes from around and under the steering colum.

    As long as the holes you have drilled in the firewall are large enough to accommodate the clutch master then it will go in!
     
  6. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    With the pedal in (I didn't paint the edges of the hole... rust risk?) I now need the following parts. Can anyone recommend places within Aus to get these.

    Clutch fork boot - speaking to Nissan
    Upper and centre shifter boot - speaking to Nissan
    Braided single clutch line - not much luck finding this locally.
    I saw this but I'm not sure if this is the single line that goes from the master to the slave and removes the second bleed point.
    http://au.helperformance.com/nissan-300zx-3-0-1989-2000
     
  7. rollin

    rollin First 9

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    for the clutch line, just email dean directly at hel performance, the website one listed is just the short one, but he does a full length one too
     
  8. Fists

    Fists Active Member

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  9. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Thanks guys, the clutch line is sorted through HEL. These dust boots are a pain to find. I'd use the old ones but they're fairly torn up and this is the perfect time to replace them.
     
  10. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Moar questions (mostly noob ones)

    Pressing the clutch fork release bearing in. Can I take this to any old mechanics or do I have to go to an engineering shop? I'm keen to get someone to do this properly.

    I'm looking to change the shifter bushing, but should I just get a replacement sports shifter? The search tool has told me that people here like the normal shifter and just upgrade the bushings to brass ones?
     
  11. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Also, the new clutch master I bought from Bursons turned out to be a mirror image of my one, so I'm assuming it's a US one.
    Going to either:
    Return it or
    Use all the components from it that I can into my existing Z one.
     
  12. Fists

    Fists Active Member

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    For the release bearing anyone that's not drunk and doesn't hate you should be able to do it, just try and pick a shop that treats their employees well enough to care.

    I'd definitely say go with a stock shifter, even just get someone who's doing an order from the states to include a couple sets of the teflon bushings so you've got spares and they'll last you 30 years. Unless one of the local guys has them in stock, have a look at rgsperformance and carcraze.

    Are the bolt points on the master reversed as well? Returning it would be better, shouldn't be hard for them to dig up the other part and not worth putting good seals into the other bore if it's not known to be in good condition.
     
  13. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Sweet, I like the stock shifter anyways.

    Yeah the bolt holes are reversed on the master - going back to Bursons tomorrow. Although I don't think they'll be able to get them by Sat.
     
  14. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    So I replaced the heater hoses over the weekend and pressure tested the heater core. Thankfully it didn't leak into the cabin. Phew.

    Hoses are in gearbox is ready to go into the car.

    Question now is wiring - I've been reading up about how people modify the wiring of the auto. But I've got a donor car with a manual loom. Does anyone know if I can take bits from the manual loom and just plug them into the auto?

    If so which bits?
     
  15. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Anyone know a mobile mechanic in the Western Suburbs of Melbourne? I'm at the point now where I need some help.
     
  16. Fists

    Fists Active Member

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    For the rubber boots there's a guy called Josh Baldwin selling the pair on facebook if you're on fb and in the z groups.
     
  17. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    FInally onto the electronics now! The guy who sold me my donor car was seriously rookie. So far almost every major bolt that I've taken apart in the drive train has been incorrect. Now my tramission mounting bolts are wrong.

    But it's in and I've got a couple of questions before I start on the electrics:
    1. I've upgraded to a one piece drve shaft - do I need to install the middle ring section that was in the standard drive shaft? It doesn't look like I need it.

    2. I'm assuming th driveshaft spline doesn't need to be lubed before install? All that gearbox fluid that came out would take care of that?

    3. The instructions for wiring I've found are a little vague. I've gotten the cables for the backup lamp and neutral switch from the donor car but I don't know where they go into the auto loom. Help?
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2017
  18. Fists

    Fists Active Member

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    1: Correct, no need for the centre bearing support with a 1-piece.

    2: Probably not necessary although wetting down the seal and OD of the shaft where it inserts will help make sure there's no abrasion from installation. Just use oil from the box or vasoline or some bearing grease should be fine too.

    3: I'll leave that to someone who's done it
     
  19. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Found out where they need to go into the loom. Now a new problem.

    The neutral position switch and the backup lamp switch both broke off at the transmission. So unless I can unbotl and replace them, I'll have to solder the wires to the cables.

    I tried unbolting those mounts but they're not budging.

    Going to have to solder them up.

    At least the gearbox went in no worries.
     
  20. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    I literally haven't done anything on this for the past 3 weeks. Holiday's, family visits, work.

    However this has happened on the weekend:

    Realised I need to replace the speed sensor and reverse sensor on the gearbox as my attempts at soldering it were pretty fail. Sigh. I hope they still make those.

    Also, I've 'misplaced' my clutch slave cylinder - this what I get for taking so long to do this :rolleyes:
    So I'm going to have to methodically dig through my ultra messy garage to find a teeny tiny slave cylinder.
     

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