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Another manual conversion - Progress and Questions

Discussion in 'Z32 Technical' started by noel0leon, Aug 24, 2016.

  1. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    *I couldn't find another place to put this. Please let me know if it doesn't belong here or is a replica of another thread*

    I've finally gotten my hands on a Z (first one was back when I was teen :eek:) and the first task is the manual conversion.

    I've been collecting bits and pieces of info from around the web as to the conversion and I wanted to put them in one place rather than in my head. So this will be more like a blog than anything

    My car: 89 2+2 NA Jspec. Auto, 248,000kms
    Donor car: 89 2+2 NA Ausspec, 220,000kms

    Step by Step (so far)

    1. Source parts/donor - done
    2. Collect tools and death prevention devices - ongoing, major things bought.
    3. Remove everything from donor (b!tch and moan about pedal cage)
    4. Buy new bits I'll need - Clutch ordered, flywheel to be resurfaced this weekend.
    5. Remove everything from my car.
    6. Fit everything into my car
    6.1 Go back and buy more sh!t that I've missed
    6.2 Re fit everything into my car
    7. Electrics, electrics electrics
    8. Pray
    8.1 Test
    9. Run

    If works: yay!
    If not works: F$#%*. Go back to step 8.

    I'll update when I can. Fingers crossed it goes well.
     
  2. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Parts list to get the conversion done:

    Second hand:
    Gearbox
    Shifter + metal and rubber surrounds.
    Shifter boot.
    Transmission mount.
    Driveshaft.
    Clutch and brake pedals.
    Clutch master cylinder.
    Clutch slave cylinder.
    Clutch lines.
    Vacuum hose grommet (located on the top of the intake plenum, next to the firewall. One of these lines used to go to the Auto Trans and is not needed anymore.)
    Throttle position sensor.

    New:
    Clutch assembly
    Machined Flyweel
    Super long extender bar to get the gearbox bolts out.

    (source: http://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z31-tech-tips-274/auto-manual-conversion-18209/)

    I'm not sure if I should resleeve the clutch master...
     
  3. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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  4. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    New Exedy heavy duty clutch ordered.
    Picking them up and getting the flywheel machined on Saturday morning.

    Clutch sourced from: Image Auto Parts
    Flywheel machined at: Brakes West
     
  5. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

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    ive done / helped with a few manual conversions now. probly the worst part of the job is the pedals and the very limited access inside the drivers footwell. it is doable though.
     
  6. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Yup, not looking forward to it :) But it's the next item I've got to do. Any tools/tips to get the get the job done? I've taken the seat out and gotten some timber to lie down on. Plus sorted out a 'calm music' playlist to help with the rage.
     
  7. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

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    seat out, a good light source, and a selection of good tools are all essential.

    put some old carpet or something down over the seat mounts as they can dig into your back. not fun.
     
  8. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Clutch pedal and master pulled, 2hrs in total and had to get the gf to help lol. But honestly a lot easier than I thought... But that's down to the research I did over the last few weeks.

    Thinking I should get a rebuild kit for the master, since it's out anyway. At the very least I'll clean up that black sludge that is in the bottle :rolleyes:

    [​IMG]


    Also, goodies arrived in the post! New Xtreme Heavy Duty Clutch (not sure if it's any good) and a 320mm MOMO wheel. I was going to go deep dish, but I prefer the "period correctness" of this wheel...

    [​IMG]
     
  9. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Main car is up and I'm taking bit's off. Stupid jack is leaking fluid so I need a new one.
     
  10. michandy

    michandy Active Member

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    dont forget

    Don't forget that you need to change your Brake pedal as well, you can just change the pedal arm but it is a pain to do ;) access being the big problem
     
  11. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Maybe it's cause I'm a short bloke but access for me isn't too bad. Take the seat out and get the right light and I'm good.

    Taking out the headers on the other hand... man that pissed me off :mad2:
     
  12. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Almost every single bolt on this factory exhaust is rusted solid. And without a rattle gun I think I'll have to cut the exhaust off.
    Wasted 4 hours on the damn exhaust today.
     
  13. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

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    breaker bar is your friend, either gets them off or breaks them off lol.
     
  14. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Hacksaw ended up being my friend. Cut off the exhaust just after the passenger side extractors and also just after the mufflers.

    Pulled the whole thing out.

    FINALLY

    The major thing is that I think I'll regret is that I had to cut the sensors going into the cat's. Not sure how I'll fix that one.

    Also: One standard exhaust, free to a good home, some cutting damage :rolleyes:
     
  15. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

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    the cat temp sensors are rubbish anyway, so thake the opportunity to delete them for good.

    Dont forget that your standard exhaust will have 2 x catalytic converters on it, which contain precious metals that the scrap metal workers can extract.

    In WA, i can typically get $15-20 per catalyic converter if the biscuit inside is intact, so dont just bin them.....im sure you could get the same over there
     
  16. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Ah! nice one. Will definitely look into that.


     
  17. Oscarsx

    Oscarsx New Member

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    Good luck brotha, everything is straight forward. I've done it on my Z and it's alot easier than what I expected.
     
  18. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Thanks man. Yeah it's been fairly straightforward so far, mostly because there is so much info online and it's just bolt off/on stuff.


     
  19. Cheddle

    Cheddle New Member

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    any advice on the clutch / brake pedal job?

    What did you do about the clutch bleeder line that runs up to the front of the car?

    I have a wrekced 90 ADM NA manual and I am potentially purchasing a 93 JDM TT auto... to convert to manual.
     
  20. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

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    Research, research, research. I read about 6 different posts from people who had done the job before.

    1. Take the seat out. Fitting in there wasn't so bad cause I'm a short dude lol :D
    2. Get a good little LED light (mind attaches to my glasses)
    3. Have a good little needle nose pliers to take out the spring clip.
    3. Have a look at the pics above of my removed pedal. At the back you can see the bolts where it attaches to the firewall and on the front right of the pic you can see where it attaches to the top (hope that makes sense)
    4. There is a little clip that keeps the spring in. Use the needle nose pliers to pull them out.

    The clutch line was a PITA man. I did end up bending it a little as I took the master cylinder out. When I re-sleeve it I'm going to have to test how it works.

    I reckon go for it man. Working on the Z is fun for me and honestly, the thing that took the longest was getting all the tools and equipment. And who doesn't love buying tools :cool:


     

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