Absolutely ZERO evidence of ANY "fouling" of any of these arms, Martin. EVERY failed arm(on my car)showed evidence of damage due to lateral "twisting" forces.
Because the forces appear to be being applied in a roughly horizontal plane(NOT in the vertical plane to which you are referring).
So what you're saying is there is a large component of the force applied horizontally towards the mounting point? Interesting. Are the factory control arms symmetrical? I haven't had a close look yet, but if bolt hole to bolt hole on one side is shorter than the other, this could also account for the twisting forces (maybe?).
Definitely no striking between the arm and the mounting bracket. Even the high aluminium collars are clean in anodised red still. My take on this is that even 1mm of twisting force (the twisting occurs from shock forces like potholes in which there is a lot of pressure being applied horizontally) It has to go somewhere and whilst most forces the wheel up or down a lot of force ends up being transferred to the adjuster screw. There is no way a bok choy collar can stop the force of it twisting. The twisting and vertical forces both developed play in the thread due to inferior quality steel from what I can tell. I will get a pic of the bok choy and show you the play in the thread (even when fully in) if you like Cheers
No - they are equal - chilli is right - its the horizontal forces that occur when you hit potholes etc. Whilst it forces the wheel up or down a lot of lateral shock force occurs when you hit a pothole. Weak parts will fail and bearings will transmit the force to the screws on aftermarkets. Its not a Z issue but the same for most vehicles, they need to avoid bok choys as well Stock versions are very strong and will handle most huge potholes. If I was racing I would shim the stock ones but need to dial in quickly hence my UAS V2's should arrive in the next day or so.
this is what I believe to be the problem the forces are 1. twisting which is fixed with UAS Pivot version . 2.horizontal force . the FUCA's hold the king pin in place . This may have caused the version 1 to bend if the threaded part was over extended and it wasn't thick enough for the forces generated there. (Heavy braking/potholes etc) (The stock FUCA has a wide cross section) Also hitting the bracket was the other prob if too low. also reason why the SPL version was a fail with rose joint.. and they haven't brought out another one .. there is no other way to design it unless copying UAS.
talk about over engineered. If i was doing it i would use a modified stock design, extendable but could be pinned when adjusted rather than relying on bolt tension. rose joints etc are race car parts. they belong on race cars not street cars.
On a race car you want more negative camber on the front, so you'd want to shorten the arm, not lengthen it. I was holding off buying FUCA's hoping once lowered I'd have enough neg camber to just run the factory arms. Sadly not enough
Many years ago a Dutchman by the name of Frank de Ruiter made and sold a camber correction kit. It consisted of brackets and an assortment of shims of different thicknesses to adjust the positive camber in steps. It enabled me to make the correction for Eibach springs with their 0.8" drop. Along with the kit I fitted Nismo bushes for the stock arms. Pretty much a "fit and forget" setup and very tough. Handily the instructions included the shim thickness combinations and the amount of correction they made so you could make up your own kit.
Andrew do you have the full set of instructions you could scan and post up? Someone should start making these kits :agree:
Uas v2 Thanks for the tip on UAS V2 Rob They arrived today and they look SOLID with a solid pivot They cost a lot but I am very happy with the quality and design I reccommend them myself now after holding them personally as a very solid aftermarket adjustable FUCA alternative My fair lady will sleep better tonight :thumbup: Cheers Jamie
Why not use the cheapest, safest, legal, smartest (imo) adjustable option ? FOR: $162USD, reuses OEM arm, wont cop a defect, solves tyre wear prolem and is adjustable. Against: Extremly low hektik points. Whiteline KCA336 Front Camber Adjustment Kit - Upper 90-96 Nissan 300ZX Z32 https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=10713
SuperPro make a similar kit SPF1659K for around AUS $220. The SuperPro kit is only adjustable on the front bush which will gives around +/- 1 degree adjustment. You have the option of keeping the stock rear bush or fitting the non-adjustable SuperPro rear bush. SuperPro bushes have a lifetime warranty. If you are going to pay someone to fit the SuperPro kit to the stock FUCA then once you add the labour cost of fitting the kit you may decide that you would get better value for money out of the V2 UAS FUCA.
