Compettion Coated Exhaust Manifolds. These were my exisitng UAS ported items which I thought a good idea to drop engine bay temps and increase gas velocity. Service was excellent and turnaround time minimal. $270 including return freight. The black finish is their high temp product, can't remember what the metal is that gives the black finish but is supposed to be the bomb! Going to get the intake plenum and a few other things done in the silver when they return to business in the new year.
Great finish on the manifolds carl, if you remember the name please let us know!:zlove: "black finish but is supposed to be the bomb"
yeah its something like alluminium and ceramic mixed together, then applied in a similar porcess as powder coating. Looks cool
Progress update, apologies for the literate impaired who only appreciate pictures The interior is back in apart form a few pieces under the steering column in anticipation to adjust the clutch pedal when it's going again. Excellent opportunity to make the once bowl of spaghetti wiring into something an auto electrician would put his name to. The CZP red stitched shifter and hand brake boots are in and the smell from the leather is oh so lovely It sure is weird every time I open the drivers door and see three pedals on the floor:biggrin: The ECU bay now houses the main fuse box that originally sat on the passenger front inner guard and the PTU which is bolted behind the kick panel. It looks quite snug in there now and the floor board only needed raising 20mm to clear the relays. Engine bay is slowly coming back together. It sure is a lot easier to prepare and work in there now with a lot of wires either removed or relocated elsewhere and the nice smooth inner guards that now only support a power steering reservoir coated in the car's future colour looks ever so sweet As for the engine well that's a bit of a sad story. I was advised by the builder it would be done by Christmas. Well it wasn't done by then and the shop does not reopen till next week so I am assuming another 3 weeks till I get it back. Pretty pathetic when I dropped it in there middle of November and he said about 3-4 weeks Cylinder heads are getting recoed with heavier valve springs (by another business) so will be good to rev somewhere in the 8K mark. The valves were leaking a little too much for my liking considering I don't want to pull this engine for quite sometime. I looked into getting the whole box and dice done to them but was looking around $4K I figured that sort of cash could be spent elsewhere and would extract a lot more power.
Yep. Taking the heads over on Wednesday where the guy will do a vac test on them and give me the low down what he reckons needs to be done. He also said it's common practice to skim the faces on alloy heads which is something I would like not to do but if it needs it so be it.
Nice work with the relay/PTU relocation. How did you go about it? Solder in a shed-load of wire extentions and run it all under the passenger guard? I had to laugh at the 20mm packer for the ECU cover plate, I had to do the same thing so it's nice to see someone else going through the same process. Turfing the auto box controller would have made it a tad easier I would imagine. Am interested in this build up for sure as about to go through the same process too. Was wondering what you know about the Eagle rods compared to say the Carillos? Half the cost after all, so is there any documentation you've come across? Also do you happen to know how far you can skim the block/head face before you need a 1.6mm Cometic head gasket?
Yeah that's what I did with the fuse box, I found your write up a few days after I had finished which was pretty much what I did anyway except I pulled all the relays and fuses from the box and then cut and extended each one that ran back to the passenger firewall. Believe it or not they actually all just pass through the firewall with the body harness in situ. There were a few there that I terminated altogether and only required a short join to a connector behind the kick panel as you would no doubt be aware of. The fuse box is screwed down on the left side and the right side actually sits on the cruise control module making it perfectly level. As with the rods, when you get a brand new set of Eagle Rods for $400 (I love ebay), research goes out the door. I have read plenty about them and heaps use them but because my limit on power is around 500, I figured they would suffice. As far as decking the block and heads go, check out the Z1 Motorsports site and look up the Cometic Head Gasket. There is a nice little blurb there explaining what is spec and allowable tolerance.
ok cool, you will certainly need to skim the heads. Get them hardness tested too, but thats usually part of a reco anyway.
ouch carl.. whats quite funny is my engine build has just started, and i pulled my engine just before you did last year.. and you've got to drive your new turbos in between how much power did you get out of the old engine at full boost, and how much boost did you get out of the gtrs'??
Starting to wonder if we will ever see yours running again Andrew. You have been very quiet on the forum these days which is not like you at all. Must have found a new GF? Actually I think rollin_on_18_strong has taken your spot in that regard ie, regular poster, always quick to give mechanical advice and sticks it to anyone he does not agree with As for the old engine, 273KW at 15PSI on a hot day. I did run it at 20PSI couple of times but did not get it dynoed. Once this new engine is done and tested and tuned, I'll do another run with 20PSI and see how that goes
This weeks update Start of the week faced a very grim situation, apart from the very start as it was my birthday :biggrin: Righto, so after pressies and yummy breaky I head over to the engine builder on Monday which had the shop closed since Christmas. The guy informs me he has sold the business and got to be out in two weeks. I then ask where my engine fits into to all of this and I am informed IT IS STILL SITTING IN THE TANK I then collect all the parts, wish this guy all the best for the future and head over to the guy doing the heads. He agrees to not only take on the bottom end as well but also puts it ahead of a lot of other jobs he had on before Christmas Heads He stripped them down and found worn guides, valves OK but not enough meat to cut them back into the heads and did not recommend them for what I planned to throw at them. Lifters showing signs of end of service with the hard facing starting to let go due to years of close quarters with the cam lobes. After much grumbling at the cost of new lifters I decided to get a new set since I don't intend on selling this car for quite some time. Cams are being replaced with a set from a manual I aquired a year ago which are being cleaned up and fitted = +20HP. Guides being replaced with bronze items. Valves are being replaced with 1mm oversized Farrea valves which were the same price as stock size and only an extra hour of machining time to fit them in. It's also no wonder why these engines respond well to a port job. The casting in the ports near the seats is pathetic with massive dags to reduce flow. Once the seats are cut for the larger valves I am taking them home to remove the excess meat. Have also ordered a set of Z1 Performance valve springs since the old ones had seen a lot of service and probably not appreciate the new 8500 RPM redline I will set the ECU at Block Once I had reclaimed it from the previous builder, I took it home and treated the rear water gallery of #5 & 6 to a date with my dremel armed with a tungsten carbide cutter and opened them slightly to make them look more like the ones on #4 & 5. The previous builder did not even remove the welsch plugs so it was no suprise I still found a lot of scale inside after being in the hot tank for over 4 weeks. Block is being bored and decked next week and parts sent away for balancing. Like to make a special mention that Wizard has been all too helpful with any advice I needed getting this thing along, thanks mate
good update. Happy birthday! . The casting in the block and heads really leaves alot to be desired compared to how well the engines are finished in other areas. The onle conclusion i come to is that they were allready putting out 300bhp so i guess they didnt need to go looking for more power like we do.
sounds like rollin on 18 is a top bloke really yes i have a new gf, shes got a zed too.. but been going out for more than 12 months now.. and zed progress is going well again and im building a house. doesnt help with time or funds body kit and paint job finished, all new suspension and shite going in this weekend engine build under way interior trimming underway dash customising underway deadline - not set
wow.. my block was only at the shop for a week.. what an idiot i was told that there was alot more $$ to fitting oversize valves so i didnt do it i mean alot more $$.. as in more than the cost of valves do you need new seats or the old ones can be cut that much larger?
Hooray, Progress :biggrin: Checked out my blocked that was still sitting on the machine after the decking, boring and honing. They had to take 3 thou off the deck which I thought was pretty good but the machinist said it could have been less if not for the slight warp due to the block being previously overheated. Good thing the heads from my motor are going on and have never been subject to that They gave me a call yesterday and informed the brand new ACL Race Bearings I bought for the crank main bearings would be no good as the correct clearance for the oil could not be achieved so they have bought new bearings and the mains have to be ground 10 thou. Once that is done it will be dummy assembled and cc'd to get 8.5:1 compression ratio then disassembled and send the pistons and rods off for balancing.
Glad to hear Karl... All coming along nicely. Did I tell you I have a spare motor I plan on building, and a 5 speed I plan on bolting up??? Once you're all done, I think you deserve a holiday. Tasmanis perhaps???
Just concerned with the reasoning behind larger valves and standard seats? Do they actually machine the seats to the larger diameter and if so how does it effect the integrity of the seats. My seats were replaced, not cheap but effective
