I would run both at the same time ..that's how my 044's are with no problem with temps and going to run both 460's my fuel temp guage is wired from my reg .
after a decent drive between 30 and 40 depending on tank level and outside temp. seen it at 50 on hot day with quarter tank and no issues.
Test drove the new relay setup tonight. Works well. Solid pressure with aprox 7v to both pumps, regulator base setting unchanged from when it was set with pumps at full voltage. Getting close to needing a tune now I think
Bit of an update. Received the new cam sync trigger the other day, so I'll get onto that next (replacing the CAS altogether). Going to be removing the AEM widebands and replace them with Ecotrons ALM CAN II. Received them yesterday so no more excuses. This will also mean removing the Border dash hood as I no longer have a need for the AFR displays. Will be selling so keep an eye out. Reason for not needing the gauges anymore is I have also been working on an in car pc/dash setup which is basically complete. It looks a little bit rougher in the photos than I'd like but still pretty happy with how it turned out and looks in the dash in person. Will fine tune the layout and content on the display as I go, was just a quick layout to define the size. The blue LED for highbeam is way too bright (even with twice the resistance of the green indicators) so I will have to do something there. Have some different LED's with a diffused face in transit, so they might work better, even tho I do like the chrome bezel on these. Basic setup is as follows. 7in Win 10 touchscreen mini pc in centre console (armrest), dash screen is the 2nd display and is a usb powered raspberry pi hdmi 7in. Software is the regular PClink. First startup in the car: https://www.dropbox.com/s/p73ni3uusoj6t7m/car pc dash small.mp4?dl=0
This is no reason to keep the stock temp gauge other than symmetry (opposite the fuel gauge). Have considered taking the fuel gauge into the ecu also, but haven't worked out the best way to do it (calibrate the stock outputs or get an aftermarket level sender). ECU gets the factory ECT sensor, and currently the Defi triple set also have ECT/oil temp and pressure. Longer term I will be selling these off also and running into the ECU. Will tackle that when it is time to swap the sump over.
Little more progress over the weekend. I have successfully deleted the CAS and replaced it with a GT101 sensor and a trigger wheel from NZ Wiring and Performance (off their RB kit). So now both sensors are connected into the factory CAS wiring, and I have modified the CAS bracket to be less bulky. Baked in the oven last night, I will reinstall again tonight. Trigger wheel Test fitting using washers to space the gap between sensor and trigger, have since made a small alloy plate to get the distances right and done away with the washers. Wiring also completed now. What is left of the CAS bracket. Could have taken alot more off and could have mounted the sensor off the other CAS bolt hole, but it makes the sensor easier to access using the top hole. Now I will have a polished CAS and polished CAS bracket for sale
That looks real neat mate. Can the fuzz get upset about the cam pulleys exposed like that? I know its covered up top, and i cant see it being any more dangerous than factory acceasory belts. I really want to do the same to keep an eye on things, guessing its only available ex UK still that cam cover
Like anything I guess, depends how they slept on the day, but technically they are covered. I'm not too familiar with the wording of the rules. I was lucky to grab my cover off someone selling off some stuff, so avoided the UK shipping Pretty happy with the fitment of it too
Bit of an update post zedfest rush... As those who attended saw, the Silver Bullet made it down and back without issue. Since last update, I got some adjustable BDE intake gears in and degreed. Stole some S2 VTC spring covers from Rob, stuck in a fancy new blue racing timing belt and replaced a noisy idler. Next on the list is a big alternator and some head studs. Then it's ready to go for a real tune. Last night, I took control of the home computers via the car PC (and mobile phone hotspot), and likewise, I took control of the car computer (and PC Link) from the home computers. Remote tuning is looking very promising.
Been making a bit of progress with tuning, and I finally turned on open loop boost control (turned it down after reviewing these logs, 25psi is too much on 98). Obviously all still a work in progress, but it is coming along nicely. 3rd gear, 60 to 160, about 7 secs. 80 to 180, 4th gear, about 7 secs. 40 to 190, touch over 9 secs. This thing is going to be scary fast once it's done
Not alot of action here lately. Bit more road tuning, alot more kms. Fuel tune is pretty good now, boost control is pretty dialled in (to about 20psi). Using a passive closed loop model for boost (as the HPI guys call it). It isn't closed loop, but does adjust solenoid duty cycle up and down depending on actual boost v target. It is effectively open loop (set and forget) with a 3d table with actual boost as one of the axis. But I'll be removing the engine again in the next few weeks to go through the final round of installs. High capacity alternator, specialty Z sump, steering bush set, remove dump pipe divider, clutch and brake masters, and a new oil temp/pressure sensor in place of the Defi sensors. These are awesome gauges, but I have removed them for the new headunit, and they are kinda redundant with the dash setup (once I wire up the new sensor). So the newest thing is the new head unit. It's a 6.8in JVC 930. Has everything I need, dvd, android auto, usb, bluetooth etc etc. Cut/mould/sand etc etc with a bit of a sun visor. blended in the mount for the microphone top and center. Works good. Original plan was to have some switches where the clock hole was (clock already removed a few times for boost controller and turbo timer) for front and rear cameras, but ended up just deleting the clock hole altogether, as I can access the camera views via touchscreen very easily. I have installed the front camera, still have to do the rear, which will be wired to display automatically when reverse is selected anyway. If anyone wants to buy some fantastic JDM Defi gauge goodness in the near future, let me know.
