i have just installed a series 2 ptu, now when i start the car it will rev up to 2000 and then drop to 300 and run rough and stall, ive triple checked the wiring and the ptu is not getting hot. could it be a bad ptu?? oh and it was running fine before i upgraded it.
Was the ptu new? If it was second hand, it could be a problem, but mostly its the way its been wired into the old loom, if in fact that is what you have done.
If the PTU is dead, this will be the first one that is so - of about 50 I have sold. On the other hand, about 4 or 5 have been installed wrong. I'm not going to say which I expect it to be because obviously I have a conflict of interest, however, I know what history is telling me... Edit: And unfortunately I don't have anymore right now. If/when I did/do, and if it is the PTU, I will/would send you a new one.
has any one got a spare series 2 ptu i could borrow to see if its the problem, or to come and check my wiring.
If you look at the How To on this page (http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305719), hopefully there is enough info for you to work it out yorself. However, having said that, here is further explanation... If you look at the drawing below... This drawing is trying to explain that you don't just connect each wire from one connector to the other. You have to connect: S1 (Left side in picture) --- S2 1 --- E1 2 --- E2 3 --- E3 4 --- E4 5 --- E5 6 --- E6 E --- G (on other side) S2 (Right side in picture) --- S1 11 --- 1 12 --- 2 13 --- 3 G --- E (on other side) 14 --- 4 15 --- 5 16 --- 6 I will further explain the Earth as that is the thing that everyone gets wrong: The Black wire marked G on the S2 PTU (between 13 and 14) has to be wired to where the E wire on the S1 PTU was originally. On the photo above, this is the green and yellow wire. If you have wired it correctly, then make sure the connections are good and strong. You should be able to pull on the join quite hard and it should not break. You should expect the wire to break before the soldered join does. If the above is all checked and ok, then it will be the PTU at fault. If someone confirms the PTU is at fault, then I will send you a refund.
The ptu won't heat up on its own, it will come from the heat of the engine bay. Unplug coilpack connectors to determine which cylinders aren't firing correctly which will then point you to what parts of the ptu wiring to look at.
it will only run for 2-3 secs unless i rev it n which the trottle response is crap and its runs really heavy on fuel
is your number 1 coil pack hotter than the rest. your earth will be around the wrong way ay. happens all the time. did you unplug your maf for any reason???
Just to clarify, i assume the wire colours are not important it just needs to be wired as shown above? I have a series2 but the wire colours differ from the pic.
number 1 coil pack wasnt getting any hotter but ill be tryin to sort it out tomorrow. abd as fair as i know it doesnt matter about the colour
Did you wire the colours together, or go off the colours in the (black and white) diagram? If so, I would check you have it correct as the colours from the S2 PTU will in all likelihood have nothing to do with the drawing.
My first intro to the PTU on a Z had 2 wires mixed up. the PTU itself got to hot to touch within a minute or 2 of the ignition itself being on without trying to start the engine. not to mention the engine would not run at all either. while it is always possible that you may have wires mixed I also wonder if another plug is partially dislodged, like the crank angle sensor (not so likely) or the TPS or as pointed out the AFM. Another thing I would look at is the condition of the terminals on all the connectors around your engine. if they have been sitting around for a little while you may want to check them for corrosion. It is amazing how electrical gremlins can appear when you start moving 20something year old wiring looms.
