How to replace your Series 1 PTU with a Series 2 PTU (with pigtails) I thought I would put this up as I have been asked how to do the install, and as they say, a picture tells a thousand words. Get your S2 PTU and trim all the wires to the same length. Strip back about 5mm and tin each wire. Get an additional length of similarly rated multi-strand wire to extend the earth wire (you will see this in the photo. I use green/yellow earth wire). Ensure you tin the ends and use heat shrink tubing to insulate the joined wires (in my photo, this tubing is red) Ensure you have the PTU oriented as per my photo Cut one wire from the Series 1 plug, tin the ends, slip some heat shrink tubing over the wire, then join the matching wire to the Series 2 PTU. Continue until all are done. Use black electrical tape to wrap the loose wires together. Reinstall the PTU. Hints: Use a good soldering iron/station set to about 350 degrees. When heating the Series 1 wires, let it heat longer than normal because you have to burn out those years of accumulated oil, grease and whatever else. If you don't do this properly, the joints won't hold properly. Don't use electrical tape instead of heat shrink tubing. 1m of the stuff costs $1.95 at Jaycar so you have no excuse. After joining each wire, and before you shrink the tubing, give the joint a really good pull to ensure it is solid. Don't learn to solder by doing this job. It is easy, but takes time to do it properly.
Stolen from the tech section somewhere. Supplying them... telling them how to install. Any more helpful, and you'd be installing them as well. Apart from the dreaded black earth wires that can be crossed over if they arent cut from the old plug 1 wire at a time, there is the potential confusion that the replacement S2 PTU wiring, presumably from a skyline, have different coloured wires. Tough little buggers the S2's. Had my black wires ar$e about. PTU was burning hot to the touch, destroyed the cyl#1 coilpack.... and still it worked properly once rectified.
Lol. I installed one last Friday, and another 3 on the Techday on Saturday. Yep, any more helpful... Oh and the photo you posted is also in the for sale thread. Yep, I think we stole it from the same article :zlove:
And if you cut the wires about 15mm longer than the each other you can make a tighter bundle, rather than having all the joins together and having a big fat lump in your loom
Should mention, don't leave the connectors plugged into the PTU whilst soldering, the best joints are the shiniest joints and wires cut from old computer power supplies will do the job well : ) Hope your article gets a few more zeds idling smooth.
Agreed. If you are using a huge soldering iron, this will cause your PTU internals to be heated up, which can result in a failure before you even start. This is what the heat shrink tubing looks like: I use a soldering station ($115) with precise temperature control, so I ignored this advice Also, if you can, get a heatgun for your heat shrink tubing. Don't use a match or lighter as the naked flame just burns the rubber. This is what i use ($30): Internally it uses a refillable lighter, which just uses butane gas ($7.50).
Now you're just getting picky , but i must agree I don't like the look of burnt heatshrink. I taped the wires after heatshrinking, then used wiring loom and taped over that again like Nissan did with the factory wiring, but having cut back a lot of that it doesn't seem to have helped all that much with stopping wires going brittle.
Sorry 'bout that. As mentioned, I'm a computer programmer, but what I didn't mention is that I am a trade qualified Electronic Technician. So yer - I am picky, but I already have all these tools, so why not use them
Oh, yer, here's another hint. Probably the most important one too. When you are soldering, place something between your job and the car as the car doesn't usually like hot solder dripping onto it. :zlove:
for heat shrink I use a heat gun (paint stripper gun) no burnt heat shrink and no refilling or out of fuel dramas
Mounting The Series 2 PTU is a different size to the Series 1. This means you can't mount it using all 4 holes where the original came from. Your choices are: Relocate to under the nose panel (Takes a while to do, and still requires a bracket) Use the stock bracket from a 93+ (Maybe the best, and pictured below) Manufacture some kind of bracket (A good substitute) Use a single bolt to hold it in. (Easiest and quickest) Top Bottom Side
S2 PTU Mount If you want to construct a mount for your Series 2 PTU, I have roughly drawn up a facsimile of the mount I have. This isn't perfect - you may need to play with the positions of the holes a little. Here is a screenshot of what I drew up. I can't work out how to upload the Sketchup file. If someone wants to host the file, or if you want me to email it to you, please send me your email address. Enjoy!
