Repairing Rear Quarter Damage

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Chrispy, Sep 18, 2012.

  1. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Well as some of you know I managed to put my zed arse first into a tyre wall at Morgan Park a couple of weeks ago with my excellent driving....

    I was planning on respraying shortly anyway, so me being the idiot I am I want to repair it myself. Biggest problem I have is I don't know how :p

    Anywho, pictures are below.

    On the day about 5 minutes after the hit:



    Piccies from this weekend after a wash. Shouldn't have washed it, makes it hard to see the dings.








    I'm not overly concerned about the big ding in the side of the guard and the dings in the panel just below the lights. The alignment around the rear bar and around the tail light is a bit more of a worry for me. Should I cut the whole quarter off and put on a new one? Or will I be able to beat it back into shape and fill it with a bit of bog to smooth it all out?

    Ideas? Opinions?

    And this also made the decision for me about the Veilside rear bar for me :p
  2. frysie

    frysie FRYTECH

    glad those 2k lights are still okay!! Agree with eric
  3. ryzan

    ryzan Black Mesa? Fat chance...

    I have a complete rear 1/4 cut off a 2+0 if you're interested. Already been sanded and primed before I cut it off the car.
  4. beaver

    beaver southern zeds


    fixing it on the car, you have to unpick the spot wields to get the bastard of properly and a lot more besides, make no mistake its a prick of a job, so I was told by the guy who replaced mine.
  5. AndyMac

    AndyMac Better than you

    Ahhh, chrispy...looks like mine after our little excursion in Armidale :p

    Good to see I'm wearing off on you.
  6. SIM300


    Do you plan on spraying yourself also? If it were me, I'd want it done by a pro. Somethings are just better left to others :)
  7. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Thanks everyone.

    Eric, the floor and all that appears to be pretty straight. From underneath I can't see any damage at all. I haven't pulled the trim to bits on the inside as yet though. I was tending towards putting a complete new guard on.

    Yes Andy, it was a littel deja vu I must say :p Though I had a lot more run off room than you did :p

    I was going to do it myself Jono, I know if I get a pro to do it the job will probably be done better. But I'm stubborn and a bit stupid :p At very worst I'll stuff it up and have to get someone else to do it :p
  8. kakaboy

    kakaboy New Member

    Just beat it , bogg it and paint it Chrispy :zlove:
  9. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    But he's got a gf now???
  10. kakaboy

    kakaboy New Member

    Im sure she wont mind ;)
  11. mholt

    mholt Member

    most of it will just pop out but because it is so flat it has trouble staying in the correct shape so need bog and some expertese to get it looking any good, you can replace the whole rear bar and that will fix that part
  12. ABZ300

    ABZ300 G

    That will buff out :p

  13. waynoz

    waynoz New Member

    dude, that is beyond your capabilities. the way the panel is pushed in under the line of the lights, and the way its bent in more than a few different directions. your going to have a hard time figuring out where all the lines should go.

    you can try but i'm guessing you'll come up with a large rounded mess trying to get that corner looking right and have it match up to the bumper..

    fork out the dough and take it to a shop, tell them you don't have insurance and they will work something out.

    if you wanted them to also paint thats where it gets more expensive, it could cost twice as much again.

    get the shop to straghten the panel, then paint it yourself as a temp before you do the respray.


    source (cut and shutting the rear end of an xc falcon with weld scars all down the quarter. that was possible but i doubt you will get that corner looking right. not saying its not possible, but won't be as easy as you think.)

    edit: but then again maybe its not as bad as i perceive. kind of hard to tell from photos rather than in person)
  14. kakaboy

    kakaboy New Member

    Unless it was a new car I doubt the panel shop would change the quarter for that amount of damage .

    Taking a second look you can see the quarter has been pulled down with the impact . Unless tha gap between hatch and quarter always looked that way . May need to go on car aligner or replace quarter .
  15. WhiteNight

    WhiteNight Littering and...

    I'm sorry but she's dead.

    Part it out and get another! Be cheaper!
  16. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Yeah, was going to replace the rear bar. That's a piece of piss.

    Yeah, I doubt the panel shop would replace the whole quarter. And I think that is required to get it looking 98% again. Looking at how it's bent I doubt I'll be able to do it without changing the whole guard out. The corner took the brunt of the impact and did push the top line down, but a new guard will fix that.

    Getting a decent S2 NA slicktop body for a good price isn't the easiest thing to do. Took me long enough to get this one! She's def not dead, just needs some work.
  17. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    For the amount of work required to remove and replace the panel Vs the two hours tops it would take to get that damn near perfect I'd be either straightening it out myself or getting someone who can to straighten it.

    Removing the panel will do more harm than good and ends up being a huge job by the time you take in to account pulling the quaterlight glass out, all the underseal in the wheel arch, rust proofing all the welded areas and extra painting inside the panel etc.

    I've repaired far worse with a few carefully shaped blocks of wood and a decent hammer, same corner exact same type of damage, 3/4hr and you could barely spot it unless you knew to look for it.

    Cost and work Vs benefits I'd be fixing what is there unless there is far more going on than what we can see. Does the hatch still latch perfectly? the catch isn't twisted? panel gaps at the top on both sides? it normally takes a little more but the back end can move across without much force - two seaters are a LOT stronger than the four seaters in this respect though.
  18. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Hmm, that's interesting... I am good with a hammer :p

    The rear hatch doesn't close 'perfectly' I think it has moved slightly. Was goign to try adjusting the catch and see if that fixed it before I started moving things. Panel gap on the hit side has moved down at the rear slightly, rest is ok along the hatch line.
  19. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    OK so at this point this question needs to be asked and answered:

    What do you intend to do with the car for the rest of it's life while in your hands?

    If more track work and possible off track experiences then maybe a perfect repair is not the answer, maybe a repair that is not butch rough will be suitable.
    It could after all be next week that you do the same thing all over again - or someone gives you a nudge etc.

    I'd be looking in to the gap between the hatch and the panel and figuring out what has moved before beating at the guard.
    That big dent in the side might have come about from longitudinal compression rather than a lateral impact as you might expect - almost no doubt the tyres touch there but the dent may be from the back end getting knocked down at the back.

    A chassis machine will sort out what has moved and where, have a look just above the muffler on the chassis rail VERY carefully, you might find a small kink in it.
    look from under the car and also the boot floor, the sound deadening may have lifted or cracked as a clue to the point of damage.
    If there is a kink in the chassis rail this is where the dent in the panel has come from more than likely and in this case you should NOT try to take it out without straightening the chassis FIRST.
  20. stumagoo

    stumagoo Active Member

    Both Mungyz's posts hit the nail on the head. yes removing the panel may seem like an easy option but take it from someone who has done that very thing on more than a couple of cars there is more to it than what is implied by the statement alone. Personally I would look at paneling it out, also if there is a bend in the floor elsewhere it really should be realigned before the panel comes off and then rechecked while the panel is off.

    Short answer is bash it out.

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