Initially my 300 was meant to be crusing pushing the stock turbos and i was focusing on the looks and appeal of the car. When bought she was completely stock appart from catback exhaust, springs and 18" rims. Since then, well for those that know my car you can see how much i have changed in the 3years 8 months ive owned her. BUT for those that dont ill link a picture up below Anyway, after Zfest @ dubbo upon returning home my Z has unfortunately developed what appears to be a terminal engine issue. I had been toying with the idea of some performance work for a long time but didnt know what or how much or any theory behind it. 90TTZ, BennyC, Black beast, JP @ UAS, Lil Baz and many others have helped me alot in this idea and its time for this to begin. I have began ordering parts already. list below Oversize Wiseco forged pistons with new rings ordered Block bored and honed to proper piston to wall clearance New Nissan rod and main bearings Bearing clearances set (1.5 thou oil clearance on rods, 1.8 mains) New Eagle Connecting Rods with ARP bolts ordered Rotating assembly balanced Block decked and squared Oil galley plugs tapped and removed for cleaning and new reinstalled Coolant galley casting flash removed and block is deburred All new freeze plugs Coolant galley casting flash removed and block is deburred All new freeze plugs All tolerances and torque values set to recommended specifications ARP studs Z1 HL-14 cam set 270 deg duration .365 lift or Z1 HL-15 cam set 270 deg duration .385 lift (select from options below) [not sure on the cams yet still tossing that up will be ordering next week] Stage 2 Portwork (Substantial bowl work, material removed from exhaust and intake runners & smoothed) Exhaust and Intake Valve guides replaced with performance bronze guides Z1 Performance valve springs ordered Heads completely cleaned, surfaced High flow radius cut performance valve job Valves lapped in Combustion chamber leak down test insures less than 5% leak down past fresh valve job. Valves replaced in case of excessive wear New Viton valve stem seals Z1 lower radiator hardpipe w/ silicone elbows ordered Z32 Dual Intake System ordered Idler pulleys, oil pump, water pump, timing belt tensioner and timing beltordered BDE Performance VTC Gears MAYBE Ramey Z 300ZX Heavy Duty Idler Studs ordered Z32 INNOVATIONS ENGINE MOUNTS ordered Cometic MLS headgaskets (pair) ordered AMS Max Flow TT Exhaust Manifolds ordered 850cc jecs injectors ordered AMS 3.0" to 2.5" Tapered SS Testpipes ordered AMS 3.0" Stainless Steel Downpipes - Available in 4 or 5 bolt! ordered new O2 sensors ordered 2x apexi pod filters ordered GT28RS turbo kit ordered AMS Polished Large Fuse Cover if i dont relocate the unit then 'ordered' AMS Polished Small Fuse Cover Koyo 300ZX Racing Radiator w/ CZP 1pc Bracket Packageordered AMS 2.5" STEALTH BLACK ALUMINUM Z32 INTERCOOLER PIPE KIT AMS 2.5" STEALTH BLACK ALUMINUM INLET PIPE KIT [[in regards to these 2 ive heard there are fitment issues with the intercooler piping like fouling on the PS pump. BUT i may have a way around this. AMS PULLEY KIT (4 PC) CZP 300ZX Aluminum Door Sill Set - Anodized Silver ordered CZP 300ZX Silicone Upper Radiator Hose w/ Temp Sensor Fitting Kitordered NA power steering pump, pulley and belt SO yeah.. i know, its a massive read up for alot of you and most didnt bother reading it and just went "HIS BUILDING A ENGINE!" well your right! i am!. So while the engine is out i will also be sanding down the engine bay, painting it black to give it some of its gleam back, Ill be re-routing some wiring too cleaning the engine bay up, hicas will be completely removed and holes welded up and smoothed, Fuse box hopefully relocated to cleaning the engine bay up completely and PTU moved also hopefully. I will also (if cash permits) be stripping the interior out and laying down some new BLACK carpet throughout the car to go with my BLACK, BEIGE, BLACK theme. My goal went from humble show car, To Show car with some pull To show car with GTFO power! :br: to be honest im not putting any serious expectations down as of yet but im aiming for 400rwkw+ So im going to be very very busy and there is a VERY SPECIAL WEDDING coming up in september i have to have this all done by *Cough* LiL Baz and Leah!!! *cough* Anyway ill be keeping this well updated and some piccies as all the parts start rolling in and for the engine pull that will be taking place in 2-3 weeks hopefully (end of may). of which, ill probably be needing a small hand so if any NSW/ACT boys or girls wanna come watch and learn alot or come and help if you have experience id be VERY GRATEFUL!. SO begin date 25.5.12 end date 30.10.12 BRING IT ON! :zlove::zlove::zlove::zlove:
This is so, so epic. Looking forward to this thread. I have to ask though... Is there any intentions of getting rid of those disgusting chromies?
lmfao i was waiting for that question and yes.. yes there is BUT they will be replaced by Diablo reflection X 20" rims with a 8.5" front with a 10" rear ill also be getting after that a nice set of 18" rims for some more practicality *puts flame suit on*
lmao i want more DISH! ..MOOOOAAARRR!!! .. And not many cars run the reflections that ive noticed atm. Anyway i need to buy more shit lmao dont ask what the price tag of all those parts is cause HOLY SHIT i didnt add all of it myself till then and OUCH!..
Nice shopping list Couple of things though... Z1 HL-14 cam set 270 deg duration .365 lift or Z1 HL-15 cam set 270 deg duration .385 lift (select from options below) Both are pretty high lift... .385 is that a solid lifter cam? I worked it out at roughly 9.7mm. Most Jap manufacturers use hydro lifters up to 9.5mm and solid for anything larger. I don't know how significant .2mm is but it would be worth investigating before you decide. Hydraulic lifters will definately be "better" for most applications. Also I don't see valve springs on your list which you will need in either case. Ferrea valve/spring combos seem to be good quality and cheap to order from CZP or wherever. Who makes Z1 performance valve springs? If they are the same as JWT they won't give as much pressure as ferrea. Oh and DON'T fit bronze valve guides. They will wear faster than standard and deliver minimal effort. Fit new OEM ones. Come to think of it you haven't mentioned valves except to say you're replacing them. The heads are the best place to spend money once you're getting into big turbo etc territory. If you're going to big cams you really need to upgrade valves as well. BDE Performance VTC Gears MAYBE Not a maybe a MUST when going high lift cams Z32 INNOVATIONS ENGINE MOUNTS ordered These are the nasty AMS copies of BDE mounts are they not? Have a read of this review http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300...w-AMSZ32-Innovations-motor-mounts-gtgtgt.html then kick yourself in the nuts and sell them. You don't need low profile motor mounts with GT28R turbos anyway. Get a UAS high performane mount (or similar) as the solid "low profile" style is going to be harsher (as in more vibration) and you don't need the clearance for turbo intakes. Cometic MLS headgaskets (pair) ordered Again sell these and go OEM, or if you must use MLS get HKS gaskets with fire ring. What else..... Oh yeah why on earth are you buying a 2.5" piping kit to feed a 50mm throttle body? First get the heads right (as in cams AND valves) and then upsize your intake piping (which I believe will deliver minimal results anyway...) as a whole. If you're going to use 2.5" piping you need to use 2.5" in/out intercooler and 58mm throttle body otherwise you are just pissing money up against the wall. Can't see any mention of coolers in your list (but I am just skim reading) but if you are planning to fit a 2.5" intercooler piping kit and then step down via a reducer at the IC you're wasting time and money that could be better spent. I don't really like the idea of JECs injectors (remanufactured aren't they? Excuse me if I'm wrong!). Nismo 720's will give you heaps of fuel. How are you going to run this thing? If going to MAP (new Adaptronic looks cheap, Vipec isn't much more) you may not need some of the fancy dual intake type parts as you won't need to incorporate AFM anywhere. Might save you some $$. Looks like a good start though and I hope it works out for you! Please excuse me if some of my thoughts seem critical -I just want to see this work for you the best that it can. Spend money in the right places (as in prioritise your spending) and you will end up with a nice engine Have fun!
Procky get us some more info on those cams... If they ARE the same as JWT (as Black Beast suggested) you may wish to reconsider...
The cams are what z1 recommends / sets with the heads but I was not sure I was even going with the cams. I was leaning towards keeping or new manual cams. As for the inter cooler and intake piping I may leave that off the list now until later and focus on the engine. I have a nistune ecu in at the moment but was looking At options like vipec just depends on where my money goes otherwise I may keep the nistune for a while . What about a good seet or urethaine motor mounts ? As funnily enough I just got a delayed shipping email and cancelled the mounts And all I was doing in the heads ATM was new valves I hadn't thought of upgrading them yet ? Pros or cons against this
Ha most builders/retailers would recommend their own product Look if it comes per assembled with the correct stem height etc probably not such a big deal, but I don't like the design principle of reducing the base circle... You'll run just fine on stock piping... Plenty of power and response. I'd be interested in the cost of nistune/selin vs the cost of a plug in like the ones mentioned... But hey if you already have nistune build around that. UAS "high performance" mounts are what you want All depends on what you want! Stock heads and manual cams will be really nice to drive. Just don't do half a job anywhere!
Well it won't be stock heads but manual cams yes perhaps. And I'll give Uas a bell and see about these engine mounts I'll delay the inter cooler pipes than and I'll flush the inter cooler while it's out. Will the 2.5 cat back exhaust create a issue wit my set up
An aspect of this I didn't look at was fuel ? Will the stock fuel pump be adequate for this set up ? Seen different views on the stock fuel pump
You can run standard or there are several options about for upgrade. You may need to change your rail depending on what injectors you settle for. Definately run a twin feed fuel rail setup. If it was my car I'd be running a single send from tank to (insert high flow aftermarket alternative) fuel filter, Y fitting splitting to twin feeds Nismo 740 injectors in 300 degrees rail, run twin return lines back to turbosmart (or similar reg) and then single return from reg to tank.
z1 heads are ported . but people miss the point that its the cams that controls how much air fuel goes in and out. I would put mild cams in stock heads instead of stock cams in big ports . but thats just me my point is if you are porting heads get some cams .(z1 porting claims to be substantial)
I guess I should add 300 degree fuel rail ? ATM I have the stock fuel rail on the build with jecs 750cc injectors (I looked at the code wrong)
Don't know what the needs are for JECs... But if fitting Nismo 740s then yeah you'll need series 2 injector connectors and a 300 degrees rail.
Don't need anything but stock rails for JECS. They come with new plugs to suit the injectors too. I'm running them with no problems in a standard S1 rail. Will need some relieving of the plenum though. And Procky, PM me back please...
