Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by Peter Black, Feb 11, 2011.
No. Just run a vent line from the tank to a vacuum line between the throttle and air cleaner.
Peter, if you look at the service manual page EM-49 you'll see the all the bearings are half cups, with one half of each set having an oiling point. Each piece also has an offset dimple that locates it in the right position. If the crank has grabbed the bearing it will flatten or tear out the dimple and when you dissassemble it will be unlikely that the half cups will still be in their correct position.
Yeah sorry I wasn't trying to be a prick just my take on the cause of death based on pictures it could be over speed and that's even more possible if the stock ECU had been either chipped or replaced with non stock etc. The air filter will dry out nicely in only a couple of days and show no sign of water intake. so who knows (I'll bet the original owner wont say)
Nicely destroyed though I'll give it that weld up the hole in the sump, pull the piston to TDC drill and tap it, chuck a bolt through the spark plug hole to stop the piston falling down, remove cam followers and sell as "good motor with slight missfire" :rofl: of yeah don't forget to call it a "race motor" :rofl:
No offense taken Mungy, I have high respect for your thoughts.
As for the race motor, I'd say weld the conrod back to gether without the broken off piece and call the motor a decompresion race motor with a custom conrods.
Mind you the missing cylinder could be flogged off as a lumpy cam.
High performance NA race motor
Modified sump to avoid high crank case pressure
Custom multi piece crank girdle
Freshly ruined - sorry run in
The respect is mutual there Dieseldave
I Like! (no Like button)
I've been pretty lax updating here but stuff has still been happening.
All the under dash wiring is gone, huge weight saving there and massive reduction in complexity. A new loom will have to be made up but it will be a tiny fraction of the size of what was there previously. The wiring to the back of teh car has been stripped right back too, just the wires for the fuel pump, tail lights, brake lights, indicators and reverse lights left now. This wiring was much simpler than the under dash stuff so we decided to strip out what we wanted rather than getting rid of the lot and starting again. Now just the body wiring to the front of the car to get rid of, that thing is a monster! At least it has the labled fues box in it so we can just pull the lot out and if we want to salvage anything find it's wiring from it's fuse.
ABS unit is removed in preperation for a much simpler braking system, the unit itself is surprisingly heavy too. I'm looking into running all new hard lines as the current set up does full laps around the car before it gets from the master cylinder to the front wheels which seems excessive to say the least.
Lastly (I think) today was spent with an esky of dry ice and a hammer and chisel getting rid of the sound deadening. the flat bits come off really easily but some of the moulded bits and bits on vertical surfaces did not want to come off at all so I'll be giving them a go with a heat gun some time soon, so far not nearly as terrible as I feared though.
Thanks yet again to Blipman for helping out with all of this, he has some pictures he might be able to add too. He's also claimed naming rights for the car, last time he claimed naming rights for saomething I ended up with a plant in my garden called 'Ben's Super Awesome Plant of Greatness' or something. It's pretty much dead now too.
what did you do about the wiring to the FPCU? i want to bybass mine but in a way where i can take out the redundant wires altogether. there isn't anything in the tech section about removing the wires and these are the only ones left in my cabin that need to be cleaned up.
For the moment I just pulled it out and got rid of all wires associated with it. The final plan will be to run 2 wires straight to the fuel pump, 12v and earth, and either hook it up to the ignition or it's own switch.
Pics, and a moment's silence please for Ben's Super Awesome Plant of Greatness
Simplified door with brackets and some other garbage removed, note the S bend in the door handle rod to make it work now that it's been relocated.
Just some of the huge amounts of wiring under the dash. Good riddance
Dry ice to remove the sound deadening
I think this made quite a difference. Flat horizontal pieces of the sound deadening which it was easy to get nice and cold came off very easily and almost in one piece sometimes. Vertical surfaces which you couldn't let the dry ice sit on were more troublesome and took a couple of hours, and there's still quite a bit of the black glue left which will no doubt be a drag to get rid of.
And if you have dry ice you obliged to do this:
and are then obliged to do this:
This was approximately 5,000 times louder than I was expecting.
Ben's done quite a good job on the modified door handles but I'm wondering how structural the inside door skin is, what would happen if i cut along the red line here?
Also, this is indeed really really loud and you can actually feel the shock wave hit you:
I'd cut just inside the pressed indent you can see just inside your red line, and a little lower at the top along the flat section just below the fold. You will retain some structural integrity, and also have a flat area to fasten a lightweight door trim to (sheet of ally or 3mm MDF/PLY
Lightweight door trim? That sounds too fancy for me! I was thinking of just using some light alloy bars or something as bracing and somewhere to mount a handle and being done with it. It's not something I'm going to do right away anyway so plenty of time to play with ideas.
Thanks for the advice on where to cut too.
AFAIK you have to have the inner cab door skin covered. Either in as suggested, alloy or mdf, or alternatively, the stock trim.
You cant have the innards showing... lol
What innards? They are all going except the useful stuff like the anti-intrusion bar too!
Oh well, I'll look into it and find out for sure but if that's the case it may well not be worth the effort getting rid of it.
Also, is this a CAMS regulation or for road registered cars?
You putting a full cage in this Peter? If so chuck those heavy side intrusion bars
And make up a door skin from 1mm ally, looks ugly otherwise.
Yeah, it will get a full cage, though depending on what happens with the motor it may get out onto the track a few times before the cage goes in.
Finally got to spend a bit of time tinkering again today, took the steering rack out to be replaced with a de-powered one I got from Chrispy (thanks), pulled the carbon canister out to be relocated to the back (it's overhanging the front wheels by quite a bit in factory position which is less than ideal, I gather the R33 Skyline one is the same but much smaller too). Replaced the round rubber joiner on the arm from the steering rack to steering wheel with a solid alloy one too, Blipman had the alloy joiner sitting around as it didn't end up fitting in his R33, thanks Ben!
Tidied up around the suspension and hit all the usual nasty nuts and bolts with a good spray of WD40 too, hopefully I'll get time tomorrow to fit the front and rear adjustable upper control arms.
While I'm at it, here's the coilovers it came with, anyone know anything about them? Nothing special I'm assuming but a nice bonus on a cheap wreck of a car.
Front, sticker says 'A.S. Tuned by Select':
Rear, sticker says 'Sustec Damper, Tanabe:
Those tanabe shocks are a good piece of kit. There from the mid 90's (94) but were a good quality item. The sustec damper was produced as a result of sponsoring a N1 endurance race team in that particular year.
Those fronts though...no idea.
Really? There you go! That's a bit of a bonus.
I figured they might be decent as I was assuming they were installed in Japan and they don't seem to go in for the cheap nasty Chinese spec stuff quite as enthusiastically as people here do.
Thanks for the information.
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