Clear Marker/Indicator Install: I'm not sure if there is a tech guide for it, but this is how I did it. I just used my super small PC screw driver kit and used the smallest flat head to pry the red marker off. Worked great, left some red bits in place which i shaved off with a Stanley knife. NOW THIS IS THE IMPORTANT BIT I used super glue to glue the clear marker to the housing. DO NOT DO THIS Chemical reaction, fogs up the whole lens, looks like theres now dry semen all through the lens. I'm ordering another pair but I'm unsure of what adhesive to use that won't foul the lens, some advice would be great.
This is what I mean by foggy semen lense: Can't see it till you get up close but it still looks dodge
Also, just a FYI for people wondering about the rear side marker lens and lighting differences. J-SPEC's DO NOT have light up side markers as standard from 1989-1996. (Unsure of the later models) 99% of them are spliced into the license plate wiring on import as a compliance issue. If you unscrew the rear lens and pull the wiring out you'll find some dodge electrical tape wiring and a molested housing to fit the bulbs.
You do realise if you apply some heat to the super glue fog, it will disappear. Just not a lot otherwise you will melt the lens. What do you think they use on all those CSI shows when they're fingerprinting something in a smoke booth.... superglue fumes Get a mini blow torch with a pencil flame and give the fog a quick going over with the flame. Will make it disappear. Just dont have your eyes too close to where you're working.
I gather from the delay in BRB'ing. You've a) burn yourself and gone to hospital b) burnt the car down and the fire brigade is on the scene c) managed somehow to super glue yourself to the car or d) have forgotten to reply with an update =)
e) burnt the side marker and is hiding in shame. heat didn't help, even with a blow-dryer. getting a new set shall have to do.
What did you use to apply the heat? Hair dryer wont do anything. Needs to be a pencil flame. Like a jet lighter or a bunson burner, etc. And all you need to do it very quick stabs of heat. Ived to do this back in the day when i was working with acrylic and was using super glue to apply the panels. Used to have fume damage from the glue curing so i use the cheap poxy soldering iron with the flame nozzle on it. Worked brilliantly.
TOO BLUE Not only is it illegal. It's just..... too much. have to get some red globes. Red Led's might be a little too bright.
Put a resister online. It will dull it down. Try like a 10k or something out of some old electrical appliance. Power supply from a cooked pc. Red will also be pretty bright unless you dull it out.
Front bar arrived. It's a copy, so I'm unsure of quality - Fiberglass Is Thick - Only slight bit of warp noticeable so far Although when I test fit it.... All shall be clear...
Had the day off. Tweaked with the EL Panel a bit. As you can imagine after 20 years of sitting behind a EL strip and with the heat, there was always some paint missing in spots. Leaving dot's as you can see in previous posts. Well I pulled him apart again, and painted over the missing bits, I also got some nail polish remover and a 1mm flat head screw driver and scraped off the original paint that had smudged when I pulled off the strip when the panel was hot and the paint was soft. Very happy with the result: From To AGAIN. Keep in mind in real-life it is obviously green. For some reason it seems blue in the photos
Random Pepper Zed Fact#1 As I've said before I've got 3 Degree camber on the fronts. Worn stock suspension bushing and the inch bigger rims would be my guess as to why. 17x8's I'm pretty sure. New rims on the way soon. Will address camber issue then. Priority # 1 Front bar painting and fitting Priority # 2 Hatch Brazilian, rust removal & respray Priority # 3 Rims Priority # 4 Leather re-trim Priority # 5 Engine bay dress-up
1. I think I'm going to have to sorce a red EL panel and set you to work on fitting it for me! That looks GREAT! Was it a pain in the ass or would you do it again? :zlove: 2. I had the same issue with my tyres getting the insides worn out, 19" rims and old springs/bushes = camber. Solution = JAPTEK front upper adjustabe arms. Pros = 0 degrees of camber Cons = Car now scrubs when going up or down any decent bumps!!
Clutch died.... options? For any of you who want a long description. Clutch engages the flywheel while in gear, although the pedal itself is very flimsy. Cannot change gears. Can pop into second, but it doesn't like it. Not a mech head so I can't tell you what I think the exact reason is.
Best bang for low buck are the F1 racing clutches that many members, including myself have. Best to order a lightweight flywheel too, should come to just under $500 delivered. I've got stage 3.
Yeah, Still goes. Can go up in gears. Won't engage first though, and going down gears is very hard, doable but hard.
