My Z Box (MyZedThread)

Note: Not as awesome as bRACKET's thread.

So, my zed is running like a dream at the moment, so I thought it was time to commemorate it with a murci/bRACKET style life thread.

I do not have the original pictures from the for sale thread but it doesn't look any different to what it did then "other then some dirt on the tyres"


(had 200,100 on odo)

Took me a while to actually decide "this is the one".

While looking I found a 1990 2 + 2 Auto NA.
Cleanest beast I've seen. And I mean original, stock.

Would of been an excellent buy. But the 2 + 0 M/T despite it's imperfections, took my eye.

 

Both of them were in Brisbane and I was in Cairns.

Soo....
Called up Murci and gave him the responsibility of looking it over for me.

He gave me the basic low-down, test-drove it, gave me the green-light and badda bing badda boom I now owned it.

Please note: front bar didn't have this much missing paint when originally purchased, no primer was used and paint was bodge, obvious swindle job. Didn't concern me one bit as front bar is getting replaced.)


First thing I did was a 200,000k service.

Then it all went downhill for about 4 months.
In that 4 months I replaced:
A/C Compressor
Alternator
Brake Master Cylinder
P/S High Pressure Hose
A/C Tension Bearing~

While getting the A/C compressor replaced they bent the rad support and lifted the whole brace up. doing this:

(That's the bonnet fully closed/latched)


A lady also reversed into my passanger door leaving a massive dent.
(don't have those photo's no more)

 

So $3,000~ later.
Everything replaced insurance policies met.

Everything was back to working order, the only thing "wrong" with the zed now was an erratic idle (900-1500) and hesitation when taking off.

I looked into it a little bit but never really tried doing anything as I was low on cash.

So I spent my time doing minor cosmetic mods:


White LED's in license plate


Also replaced:
Gear shift knob OEM
Gear Boot Cover OEM
Handbrake Cover OEM
Shifter Bushes CAZ (Bronze)

All from Caz
Then It was all just a bit of a what now... I need money...

 

I wasn't a mechanic nor did I have any mechanic friends so although I knew alot about the electrical side, there was alot of mechanical know-how I didn't have that set me back.

BUT

This week, I've had tonsillitis. The head-splitting, bone-aching, throat-killing type.
So apart from sleeping for days on end and slowly dying I read the tech section on what causes hesistation and why, and what's the causes of errattic idle.

Alot of the reason where in parts of the engine I couldn't access. Only thing I could really do was check the TPS and AFM.

So, I did.
First thing I did was take the connecter off the TPS and check the connectors.

Holy !@#$1* green corrosion everywhere....

I immediately got a microfibre cloth, and a 1mm handy tool and cleaned it all up and made the connecters all shiny.
I then started up the Zed to see what difference it had made.......









The car now idles at 750-800 perfectly, has no hesitation and has an extreme improvement when it comes to pedal response.

I was excited, happy, and so very confused...

 

And that's it so far.

Everything runs perfect.
Everything from this point on is maintenance/improvements.
(S1 PTU will be the death of me)

Today I fitted a 3a Filter and junked the stock box:



My main concern is the fact that, I have NO splash shield of any sort.

The pod sits 25cm~ off the ground and is located just behind the license plate, should I be avoiding heavy rain too?

But other then that, Zed idles perfect everytime, seems to have more grunt, more power, more response, and again it's not really because of the filter, it's ever since I cleaned those TPS connecters.
I feel like I've cheated a little bit.

HID Kit is on it's way,
Next priority is splash shield, then front bar.

That's it for now. I'll leave it with the only good picture I've ever taken of her:

 

Well the plan was to just sell it and buy a TT
But with everything NON-engine related going wrong It's put me off.

Deffinetally cosmetically mod the N/A then yeah, TT conversion down the line.

 

Your 3a pod sits exactly where mine does and it never gets wet. You need that under car splash shield because it guides the air through the radiator without it the air is going to just go under the font bar.

 

You can get these wrap-around splash shields from Autobarn that fix under the worm drive clamp (where the pod filter fixes to the MAF) I'm using one on another car and haven't had a problem. They do the trick

 

HID Install Today:
Alot better visibility.
Only real comments on the kit itself is the wire length, too short to mount ballasts on the side of the headlights themself, so I mounted them behind the lights.

H3
6000k
$79.00 Delivered



I got the Slimline ballasts, about 2/3 the size of the one shown here







And The Much Desired Result.

Note: Headlights have NOT been cleaned either.

 

Looking good man. Keep it up
HID are obviously the way to go.

 

Love it mate, good to see another one of these threads =D

HID's are on my list of things to do as well, just need some more $$$$$

 

$79!! I thought HIDs were expensive, guess not, nice work

 

You're paying for the brand.
You could pay $300 and get a slimmer ballast and a reputable brand, but the cheaper-end HID Kit's are just as good.


Tip's on buying HID's :
Check wiring loom length so you have the option to mount them wherever you'd like.

Check that the connectors have good quality housing.
You want the Plug N Play connectors to have a good housing with rubber seals to prevent moisture getting in there.

Opinion on the Xentec Kit I got:
Great Price
Installation was super easy.
Lighting quality and functionality of the Kit itself is perfect.
Connectors had plastic housing and plastic seals on all connectors EXCEPT the Plug N Play connector that plugged into the original bulb connector, so that had to be sealed with electrical tape.

Wire length little too short.
I would of liked to wire and mount the ballast on the inner side of the headlight, therefore wiring would be hidden and out of the way, same with the ballast, but due to wiring restrictions, everything was wired behind the headlight.

I don't like the wiring being so obvious, clean hidden job would be prime. But eh, did the best I could given the circumstances.

 

Where exactly are they behind the headlights? I put mine under the nose panel, above the airfilter, as I killed the ballasts when I had them resting in the engine bay behind the lights after 2months.

 

Quick Update:

Moved the ballasts as I actually have JUST enough wire to have them on the inner side of the headlights.

Fit snug and won't move AT ALL

 

Today:

New tyres at Jax Quickfit,
Mechanic gave me his number for any spray/panel beating jobs I need done.

Guard Rolling under $50 for each guard. (Guard Roller being used too).
(Brazilian and front bar spray on the way)

They're currently sourcing a set of Lenso D1R's or Tork Imagines in the sizes & offset I specified. (Tork IS an american brand so GL to him).

Lenso D1R's
18x8 + 25
18x10 + 22


Tork Imagine
18x8 + 20
19x9 + 30 (10mm Spacer)




Also found out front wheels have 3 degree camber on each side. Most likely due to worn suspension bushing.
All 4 shocks are new, rear springs are new, front springs are stock.

Any opinions or insight welcome.

 

How I fixed the water problem (that's actually a problem with the GReddy front [which I think you're getting pepper?])









go to a proper plant shop as bunnings and the like have only a small range of el-cheapo .2mm black pots. the one in the pic is 2mm thick and cost ~$8. hell of a job cutting it up without a dremel though. just add spray paint and sika.

 

Still undecided on the front bar.

UAS Greddy copy $770 delivered.
Or Abflug Type 4 $1300 delivered from AMZ performance.
(AMZ's prices are insanely cheap, 2000spec tail light and panel bundle is $395)

I could get a few things and make the shipping cost redundant.

Check em out Anti, they have escort bonnets

 

you got me exited you bastard

and that's the same price on tails CZP has