grab a cheap leak down test off ebay, or u can pick up a tool from auto 1 that has a compressor fitting on 1 end and a spark plug thread on the other, it's also good for doing valve springs with the heads on
I got the microtech back on friday, the problem was the failed injector driver on #6. $80 later and they fixed it for me. I got the plenum back on by mid sunday and with the help of a local legend had the base timing redone and lots of other little things done so the zed was drivable. We tried to take it for a spin but the huge clouds of smoke behind us indicated something was clearly up, when we got it back in the driveway we found the MAP sensor was unplugged, once that was fixed the car ran very well with no knocks from the engine and the idle was smooth, the smoke also cleared completely. On the second drive the smoke came back but not as badly, showing up at idle and driving along, we suspect turbo seals. Hopefully I'll get a chance to drop the subframe and pull the turbo's this weekend. Car also needs a good tune, timing is out at some revs and fueling is pretty average. Turbo's seem to come on boost fairly late, car started to get up and spool around 4000RPM+
I think once you take the taillights out and sell them to me Anton.. all those problems will be solved. Im telling you.
It's alive! Good to hear mate! I've got my fingers crossed for ya! Much too nice a Z to see it completely parted out! :zlove:......apart from those sexy Xenons of course!
took it for another blast today, if I stay off boost it doesn't smoke so the problem is the turbo seals. Having said that I found in both second and third if I keep my foot planted nothing starts to really happen until around 4000rpm and from 5-7000 rpm the rear tyres (good condition 275 toyo proxies) completely let go and contribute to the smoke coming out the exhaust :zlove:
been a bit quiet lately. I pulled the engine and removed the turbo's to find they were old style HKS 2510's in need of a rebuild, so I've since sold off the turbo's and bought a pair of S15 T28's. I've put the engine in the garage and started taking it apart and found that it has stock conrods and what look like stock pistons which I'm very angry about but the heads have been match ported to the lower runners which have been ported and polished and match ported to the upper plenum, the intake side of the head has also been ported and knife edged. The upper plenum has some mild cleaning up where it meets the lower plenums. The plan of attack is to rebuild the motor with forged goodness because I have to take it apart to fix what looks like a blown OEM head gasket (coolant weeping down the back of the block the only sign of gasket problems) I have some 265 duration, 9mm lift cams to go in to help it breathe a bit better, as well as some bigger turbo manifolds and will get some 3" dumps to mate up to my twin 3" exhaust I should also be getting a 2.5" intercooler pipe set and possibly modifying the plenum for more volume and bigger throttle bodies My OS Giken twin plate clutch form Canada finally arrived after 3 months so that will go on as well Then it will be off for a tune to hopefully make between 350-400rwkw I'm still running the Nismo 555cc injectors but will probably swap them out for my other 816cc top feeds in a custom rail then I will attack the suspension side of the car which is way too stock
Bit of a shame its got stock pistons/rods. You got it on the premise it was a forged motor with big turbos right?
yeh I bought it thinking the turbo's "may" be swapped for stockies but that the original "$17k" built motor was in there
yeh but they are pretty old, here's the old for sale thread http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234969 The car is also missing Tomei BOV's (had shitty ebay spec ones) and the hard pipes don't have HKS written on them anywhere
motor doesn't have an engine number from what I can see (cleaned off the section at the base of the right head and it was bare?) I also pulled the heads off and the pistons appear to be stock (After cleaning off a LOT of carbon) and the block isn't O-Ringed The rods are balanced but I guess this is normal?
