Had this for a few months decided to make a thread to keep all the info together. After parting my last 300zx; (Blown turbo, low compression engine, you get the gist) I bought very well put together 180sx that caused me no problems. Naturally I sold it to get another 300zx. After a search a car I had seen before came for sale (Some of you will know this car). Made a reasonable deal on it, test drove relatively fine. Mod list is as follows: Overview: 1990 Nissan 300zx 2+0 Twin Turbo 320rwkw @ 16psi Now for the mod list..... ENGINE/PERFORMANCE Bolt divorced dump + 2.75" engine pipes ACL 'RaceSpec' 40thou Oversized Forged pistons ACL Gapless rings Alloy Front Mount Intercooler.(600x400x90) APEX'i Full 2.5" Exhaust w/High flow Cats APEX'i Super Megaphone Mufflers APEXi Power Intake ARP forged rod bolts ARP head stud kit UAS GT2860RS Turbo kit R34 GTR Fuel pump Extrude honed ported & sandblasted manifolds All new braided turbo cooling and oil lines Overbore 40thou EAGLE forged conrods Full size stainless steel air guide GReddy 1.6mm headgasket CarCraze Silicon Intake pipes JWT heavy duty valve springs Treated (shot pien) and balanced crank PWR Twin Pass Radiator NISMO 555cc Injectors Port and polish Throttle bodies bored to 55mm GReddy PROFEC B Spec II Boost Controller Twin blue 'Go Fast Bits' Hybrid BOV's Nistune Engine Management System Inland Empire 1 piece Steel driveshaft JWT Full Faced Organic Clutch Heavy Duty 350z clutch fork ARP Flywheel Bolts NA Rear Subframe conversion R200 Rear Diff conversion UAS 1 pc clutch line INTERIOR/EXTERIOR A Pillar single gauge mount GReddy Boost gauge APEX'i Rev/Speed Meter on APEX'i stand (not working, but have replacement) GReddy Profec B Spec II EBC BOMEX Aero mirrors 2k spec side skirts Chrome door sills w/ Blue Indiglo '300ZX' logo GZA Polished gauge ring set ZSPEED 300km/hr speedo NISMO Clear indicators 55w 6000k HID Low Beams SPARCO Pedals Letterbox style front nose panel GReddy/Trust style Front bar TWD (Temp Warning Device) Courtesy of K-Zed Raybrig T10 HID LED Park lights With Raybrig transformer Cleared front indicatiors GENUINE 2000 Spec tail-lights (with Altia center panel) EZZUPTURBO Bonnet Struts WHEELS/SUSPENSION/BRAKES K-Sport "Kontrol Pro" Coils front TOP SPEED Master Cly brace RDA7701D Front Rotors RDA Rear Rotors QFM HPX Brake Pads all around CAZ Caliper adaptors to suit larger Rotors. Adj Front Upper Link Control Arms. Powertrix Tension Rods All urethane bushing BEE R rear sub-frame bushes UAS Front Strut Brace UAS Rear Strut Brace Whiteline Front Sway Bar Whiteline Rear Sway Bar PROJECT MU Braided Brake Lines Wheels Cosmis 10.5 + 15 and 9 +15 Picture on the drive home Managed to be immediately pulled over into an RBT expecting to get the good news about the poke in the wheels. However escaped that time.
On the way home it developed a horrendous misfire which turned out to be a fuel leak which I quickly fixed up. Also a new MAF fixed the misfire for now. After this the car displayed a horrendous idle. Wouldn't cold idle, would hunt from 200rpm to 1.4k rpm. Also had terrible throttle response. Tested the TPS internal resistance and was out of spec replaced this. I then realised the actual TPS unit only had one bolt instead of the two bolting it to the throttle body. Watching the muli meter as the throttle increased the entire TPS unit would lift off the throttle body and slid back off the throttle pin, resulting in a .3v at WOT! Fixing this resulted in a perfect throttle response but the idle issue. Thinking it might be vacuum leaks at this point.
Got the to do list sorted Did a quick and nasty plenum pull to delete PVC. Rushed it to get to a car show. Ended up fixing a stripped plenum bolt by retapped it and ended up stripping another one. Note to self do it right do it once. Replace these silicon intake hoses. They are terrible to fit and am wary about the heat they soak in. Remove the heater core lines and replace. The rear one is completely rusted. remove the turbo coolant lines and replace. plus most of the other coolant lines. timing belt and water pump (Not sure when last done so prudent to do it) clean injectors and seals clean idle control again rewire half the loom that is fraying relocate battery redo fuel lines with fpr replace lower plenum knock sensor drop exhaust reweld holes in it and replace 02 sensors as they have been cut off
This rusty fender bolt had been annoying me since I purchased the car. What better way than some ZSPEC bolts! Thanks to rob from rgs for them. Much better. Might aswell start with the easiest jobs - 5 minutes, 1 beer.
So I’m not the only one who uses the consumption of beer to time gone by method Nice looking car btw mate Col
Weekend means procrastination of jobs that need to be done. Slowly working towards the blacked out engine bay look.
He is some other photos as well since I just gave it a clean. Sold the 305 rear wheels as they poked too much. These 265 are having some significant traction issues thought. Might need to upgrade.
So do I. Unfortunately they were too skinny on the front, and too wide on the rear. I'm on the search for new ones now actually.
I can identify with you about traction issues. Recently I decided to upgrade the tires on my car, did a bit research and settled on Michelin pilot supper sport. 275 r 235 f. These things are ordinary cold, but when warmed the grip is reassuringly solid, cold=dangerous.. warmed up solid reliable.
The whole traction thing is tricky. Usually tyres that grip well wear horribly and vice versa. Semi sick type tyres put plenty of rubber on the road but do not disperse water well. I guess it’s good to think about how you want to use the car. Learning to read UTQG specs can help steer you in the right directing https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48
Using my car when its raining is not something I don't do a lot, although the Michelins as a wet weather tire, are pretty good, ie.. better grip than cold tiers on a dry road, which is echoed by most drivers who use them. They are semi slick but have two deep centralized groves which throws quite a lot of water from under the tire, they don't plain at speed, or I can't feel it. Having said that, they still need some heating up to get the best grip from wet roads. Done about 3000k's on them, and they look worn, some of the lateral groves are now hard to see, on both back and front tires.
Picked up some more greddy gauges. If anyone is selling a oil pressure one let me know. Plus z32 mouse pad ive had for ages.
Been busy with life. Finally got back and naturally avoiding anything to fix my exhaust and idle issue. Grabbed the fender problem. The panel gap was atrocious. https://i.imgur.com/Aju3kFt.png Spent ages fiddling around with the fender. Checked the pinch weld and it had copped a huge serve of the good news. Basically just used vice grips to bend it back, put a piece of wood on it and smacked it semi flush. Didn't take any photos but I really need to do this properly on a hoist rather on the ground. Re mounted the fender and it was great. Re attached my side skirt annndd i realised the entire problem. The side skirt (or maybe the car) was ill fitting and literally dragged the fender towards the door causes it to impact when the door was opened. Shimmed the fender mount on the pinch weld to give it a clearance, panel gap isnt perfect but wasn't the best. Will have to eventually fix the side skirt in the future.
Grabbed some Work Emotion CR KAI. 18*9.5 +12. Re003 on the front and RS4 on the back. A bit stancey but once these wear out hopefully upgrade to 275.
Started my motor semi tear down. New parts include 120k service ARP idler studs Valve covers PCV delete new lower plenum new knock sensor. playing with doing all the power steering hoses and chucking a rebuild kit through it. Compare left head which has been cleaned to right...
Also about to change engine mounts, is it advisable to drop the subframe slightly or can get away with just supporting the engine?
