I'ver fitted a an electric fan to my front mount. Should I run a cabin switch to flick it on or run it through my microtech LT12s ecu (that's if I can) when intake temps reach a designated temp. I like the idea of a cabin switch so I can turn it on to help air flow when cooling temps also get high. Does anyone know if I can have it turned on by the microtech?
Id go with an auxilary switch, intake temps will be highest under load at speed wont they, and you wont want the fan coming on then , it will be a hindrance if anything
It's 10 inches! I was going to fit duel 10's but there is little space with two pods. I'm also going to run a 16" fan for the radiator soon and was going to also use microtech to trigger it, can I run two, 1 for air temps and 1 for coolant?
Can't be of any help re the microtec but this idea should surely eliminate any heatsoak from the FMIC. Especially for 1/4 mile applications.
Then he put on his engineers hat... Hey thats a great idea, adding an electric fan to give forced air cooling. I have a couple of pointers (which I know from machine designs ive worked with in my job). 1)A fan will push air through a resistance (such as the radiator or grille) far more than pull through it. When it pushes it picks up ambient pressure into the blades and holds it behind the blades. If it pulls air it tends to de-pressurise the air before itself. Practically speaking its about twice more flow, but it depends on how resistant the air path is. 2)What you are talking about with switching on the fan only when high temperatures are present is usually refered to as 'fan on demand'. You could get a (Normally open) thermostat and mount it to something in the engine bay that you want to cool when it is above the thermo's switching temp. Wire the fan motor through the thermo. Then the fan will run when the temps are high. 3)If you ran it direct off the battery it would cool the car even when it stops running. Some cars do that factory standard, I think TT's would really benefit from this. 4) If you use two fans each could have a different thermo so that one turns on, and if thats not enough the other clicks in too. 5) You could even put a few thermos in parellel around the engine bay on critical parts so if any one of them runs hot the fan will kick in. 6)Fans do create audible noise, and suck in dust. Be careful of that. Fan noise can be reduced by making sure the blade edges are distant (especially the intake) from other component edges, and they are clean, and free or plastic moulded burrs. 7)Deep, close fitting cowling's give the fan more pressure differential capacity. If the blades are a deep screw shape they're better for pressure too. 8)Multiple fans must have their own cowlings or you will hear annoying beat frequencies and humming. 9)A fan helps, but is not an excuse for a thermally unstable system. Man, its seriously a good (Cheap/easy) idea i'm gonna do it too. Keep me up to date with how yours goes. Hope it really helps. Anyone got ideas on what components the thermostats should go on? Are there things in the engine bay that need to run hot, so cooling them will have an adverse effect?
...and wouldnt take it off... Man I think theres something else, looking at your setup. The fan might create turbulence for the engine intake. Consider putting the fan on the front of the intercooler, once the air passes thru it will be a more laminar (non-turbulent flow) for the filters to pick up nicely.
The only real benefit would be 1/4 mile and maybe at traffic light grand prix's, you would be much better off spending the time and money on a water spray set up
I have thought of doing this too Wayne for a while but have been worried about the restriction a fan becomes at high speed, will be interested to see how it goes on the 4th at OP if you are a starter
