Hey guys! I’ve bought a new TT as a weekend fun car, what HP would I be looking at if I were to do 2.5 inch intake piping, 615cc injectors, hi flo standard turbos, full turbo back exhaust and boost control. Thanks
I'm still not convinced peak gains are worth the loss of response with big piping at relatively low power levels. Exhaust, intercoolers, pod filter, boost control, tune. Be happy are 300+rwhp
Are there actually any visible losses in the mid range just from the intake/IC pipes? Plenum and exhaust manifolds for sure but past the throttle bodies I'd be surprised. Not that they're worth the money with highflows any way. Highflows and 16-18psi should do around 400hp on 98 with supporting mods.
I don't have anything to back this up, other than bum dyno. Dyno graphs aren't necessarily the best visualiser of response anyway. Also I can't remember when I actually did the pipes compared to other mods, as in if they were installed with other parts also. Intercoolers were def changed at the same time.
Big piping doesn't affect response on stock turbos, my car made full boost at the same point before and after 2.5" piping. 300rwkw on stock turbos and e85 here, power you will make will depend on what core is used in your highflow
2.5" IC piping can slightly improve response (defiantly not loose any response) as the bends are not as tight of radius compared to the stock steel pipes. 2.5" Turbo inlet piping will improve more so. Good turbo manifolds like the MSP will be the biggest benefit.
IMO, 555's on high-flow turbos @ 15-18 PSI and upgraded side intercoolers + tune will yield a beautiful Z that can handle the power all day every day and fantastic fun to drive. No need for massive pawah b/c after that, it becomes a little difficult to get it on the ground and additional stress on stock motor which according to sources, it's capable of 600hp stock maxed out so it will run well within safety margin. May I suggest, since it's a weekender and before going down the modification road, make sure the cooling system and o2 sensors are working properly and if possible do a coolant hose bypass for sure. (Look this up on here) There's nothing more deflating that filling-up at the petrol station, ready for some fun, only to find a pool of water on the ground from a pissy little 30yo hose located inside the bowls of the plenum somewhere. People can think these machines can be unreliable but there are certain things that can be done for simplicity and they become bullet proof. Also, if you are rebuilding the turbos, use STEP seals. They will last forever. Don't rush straight into the Pawah, maintenance 1st, then PAWA!!!
I've got a set of 650cc Sards in rails ready to bolt straight in, same as I'm running in the race car. PM if interested.
My 1991 Z32 TT: Stock turbos with 118,000 miles (189,902 kilometers) Godspeed side mounts 2" in/out HDi EBC @ 15psi 93 octane Shell gas (R+M/2) Ford Taurus efan JSR Cooling radiator ebay cheap aluminum crank pulley Shaftmasters aluminum driveshaft F1 racing chromoly flywheel Nismo 740s Nistune Z1 2.5" IC tubing 2.5" ebay downpipes 2.5" ebay test pipes 2.5" HKS hiper exhaust Quantum 340lph pump all deletes Godspeed Gen2 RUCA, Tension rods, traction rods Tog Auto hicas delete Tuning Pros Springs Stagg Shocks Action Clutch 6 puck Brisk Silver Racing spark plugs Original weight 3,486 lbs no driver (1,581 kg) Now 3,280 lbs no driver (1,487kg) 12.279 @ 118.13 mph (190.11kph)
Running 400rwhp here at 18psi *Auto turbos high flowed with gt28 bb cores *3" split dumps & 2 1/2" exhaust sys *big side mounts still running factory cooler piping *selin dual intakes *550cc injectors *nistune Every thing else is still the standard tt hardware.... Have since upgraded the fuel system and changing to a link g4 ecu, hoping to squeeze a lil power out of the current setup....
