Z32 Harts TT restomod build thread

245rwkw at 14psi with E85 is a touch on the low side. What other mods does the car have? My car with all the bolt ons did 266rwkw at 12.5psi and 301rwkw at 18psi dropping to 16psi past 5000rpm and another stock turbo zed i tuned did 298rwkw. I'd be keen to see the timing map.. as boost wise past 5000rpm you will have trouble getting it to hold another 3psi to redline.

 

@SRB-2NV performance mods are:

3" exhaust from turbo back
2.5" intercooler piping and z1 big SMCs
1000cc Side feed injectors
Deatschwerk DW300 fuel pump
Radium FPR
LinkG4 with flex sensor
K&N filter

That's it really! I'm still waiting on the dyno print out, won't be happening at the moment as we are in lockdown. I'll post all info as and when I get it though.

Cheers!

 

You have the same mods as i did when i made that figure except you have a larger exhaust. I'm thinking the tuner has been way too soft on the timing..

Mine was:
3" dumps
2.5" catback
2.5" cooler piping
2.5" turbo inlets
Japtek mammoth smics
1000cc top feed injectors
Bde rails
Nistune ecu
Apexi pod filter

 

Maybe so, I asked them to keep turbo pressure down and make it super safe because I don't intend to rebuild for 3-5 years... or until it breaks

 

Mine made that figure at 18psi dropping to 16, which is just about the limit of the factory wastegates. Another few psi wont give you more than 20-30kw of power. Thats why im saying the timing is probably fairly soft.

Up the boost, when my car was only running the stockers i ran 18-20psi for 5 years or so.

 

Yeah, I hear you. Having not seen the data, I can't speak to it, but it very well could be the case.

Ill turn the wick up next year and see what happens, but I'm happy until then. It's plenty as I have the car currently set up, MCA Reds are on the way, I need to get those Veilside wheels with bigger rubber on and a big brake upgrade before I start worrying about more power.

 

Stock turbos might be the limiting factor. High flow turbos should let your tuner find more power without adding much more boost.

Mine makes 280rwkw on 98 at 17psi with high flows.

 

I bet high flows would make a fantastic difference, but I won't be touching the turbos until the engine build, I hate doing things twice (if I don't need to). That power figure of yours is great though

My intention is to run a twin G series set-up on the built engine down the line.

Started the roof moulding replacements today, but the rain cut me off. I replaced the two rearmost mouldings and began the passenger windscreen moulding and then the sky opened up. Ill try again tomorrow!


I installed my two new OEM guage pods as well (AC and Lights, my AC pod was broken where the hazard/retainer mount attached), thanks @rob260 ... got my forum stubble holder and lanyard too! I feel like I have taken a step with the stubble on board hahaha!

 

New G25 turbos should way out perform any high flows. What's the planned time frame for them?

 

Good question, I'm saying 3-5 years before build, but at the rate I'm getting through things with the car, maybe end '22 or start '23.

 

Not that I have looked at the G's up close yet, but I'll probably look for a G28 twin set-up, having heard the frame sizes are small and super efficient. I'll be shooting for 750'ish hp, at least that's in mind mind, I really haven't done the research into any of it yet because I want to suspension/brake/respray/retrim first.

I will say that I don't want to push the boost curve too many rpm forward, I'm hoping the cutting edge G series will give me good spool and allow me to reach my power goals. On my last build (10 years ago) I ran a gt3076r on my 2.6l Tomei RB25 build. Its recline was 10000rpm, so any rpm I lost going up in frame size was offset by the rev limit increase. I understand it is more difficult to make the VG rev higher, so I'll be keen to control the start of the boost curve a little more by staying with a smaller frame size. Anyone with info on the G series frame sizes and output on Z32's feel free to chime in!

 

Finished up lock down with replacing the roof mouldings and restoring the window mouldings, all back on now. Small jobs on my 300zx list slowly getting knocked off, which is always good.

 

I had mine re-painted when my car was re-sprayed, but they are simply not as good as a new set! did you source through Z1?

 

Yeah mate, I did a couple of large orders so I snuck them in, I think they were around US$270 ish + ship. I was happy to pay that but not the US$ 500+ for the Kamilaroi window mouldings

And for anyone interested, I used SEM Trim Black for the mouldings (I did the wipers with that as well, last year).

 

I'm halfway through a house renovation, but I thought I'd drop these here. I hope everyone and their Z are having more fun than I am at the moment!

 

Make sure your aftermarket fuel pump gets full power (some say hook up direct to battery and bypass the pump controller) or put in the OEM TT fuel pump to get the most fuel to the engine if chasing more pawah.

I ended up replacing the aftermarket one installed in 2006 with a new OEM TT fuel pump. Not cheap though.

Interesting enough, the pickup sock on the aftermarket pump had swollen up that I reckon was possibly causing fuel starvation at high RPM. Something to consider.

 

I'm looking forward to paying some attention to the old girl as I wrap up my house renovation toward the end of the year. I got out the machine polisher the other day though, I just needed a break from the constant renovations, 7 months and counting...

I stripped and machine polished the bonnet, front quarters and boot/hatch, it's amazing how much better the pearl pops with a good polish!

 

I forgot, they finally sent this too!

 

So I had to do some maintenance on the car as I'm driving to Melbourne from Adelaide tomorrow with my wife and young daughter.

The brake light indicator has begun to pop up intermittently, eventually staying on full-time. I assumed it was the globes and replaced them, this didn't fix the issue.

After looking into it a little, I located the brake light module adjacent the rear drivers-side brake light. I removed the module from the car, levered the cover off and had a look at the PCB. Sure enough, pin 8 had broken clean through its solder connection on the board. I re-soldered the joint and popped the pcb back in its cover. After re-connecting brake module to the car I tested the brake lights and voila!

Moving on, I had an worsening issue with poor cranking/firing performance when cold, and it was starting to have an effect when warm as well. I had a think about it and worked out that I felt that the longer the car was left, the worse the cranking/firing relationship. Thinking about the fuel components I replaced recently( engine bay hoses, filter, FPR, pump and injectors) I figured that I would be most unlucky to have the new Pump/Injectors/FPR fail, so I decided to start at the filter and hoses.
I had noticed a gradually worsening smell of fuel in the cabin, so I checked the hoses first. It was instantly clear that the new fuel hoses had degraded very quickly over the 10,000kms I have travelled since the works done.
Initially I thought it may have been that the workshop used the wrong hose type, but when I checked the technical data of the Goss Fuel Injection Hose, it listed E85 as an applicable fuel type. I replaced the severely crack Goss hose with some Gates Barricade hose, so we will see how this holds up comparatively to the Goss.

I can only guess that the combination of of very high Adelaide summer heat and my preference to running E85 most of the time had a marked effect on the Goss hose. I am hoping the Gates gear lasts longer!

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for engine oil? I bought some Penrite HPR10-50, but noticed the ester based 10Tenths 10-40. Considering I am seeing near on 100psi on cold start and at high revs/load, I was wondering in the 10Tenths was suitable for our cars?