Z32 Harts TT restomod build thread

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by Harts, Oct 7, 2020.

  1. Remo

    Remo Member

    Wow, I'm surprised by your dyno results. I've seen many posts from the states with people getting around 350hp/260kw, mark with similar mods, or a bit more, without going E85.
     
    Harts likes this.
  2. Harts

    Harts Active Member

    Hard to compare apples to apples with the united states vs Aussie dynos, but after having a conversation with other aussie z32 guys I think it is about the right mark, boost being the limiting factor and determined by me for the sake of the old running gear.

    What I will say is, even at that power level, the car is now ridiculously fun and for the time being I am more than happy.

    Once I am used to this power level and address a few other items (suspension, brakes, wheels, interior and exterior) I will look at it all again.

    The most important thing is I now have a reliable, start every time vintage JDM turbo car!
     
    ZEDXXX likes this.
  3. Harts

    Harts Active Member

    Also, I will post the dyno as soon as I get it!
     
  4. Remo

    Remo Member

    Yeah nah, reliability is my major goal too. I'm doing a full resto with pretty much all similar mods, but all from CZP, and I opted to stick with getting brand new stock turbos (less than half price of any upgrade ones) as I believed I could pull more than enough power from them than I would ever need.
     
    Harts likes this.
  5. Harts

    Harts Active Member

    From what I hear, around 300kw with e85 on stock turbos with a fair bit more boost than I am running is a reasonable expectation.
     
  6. Harts

    Harts Active Member

    [​IMG]
    OEM mats in, tidied up the leather boots for gear knob and handbrake, Veilside shift knob in.
     
    MintZ32 likes this.
  7. ZEDXXX

    ZEDXXX New Member

    I stumbled across this thread through sheer boredom.
    Interesting build/ read for the most part , until I read this rubbish about short shifters etc.

    First of all, a short shifter has no bearing on mechanical load ( ie synchros) lol.
    A properly designed SS only adjusts hand throw by raising the fulcrum point .... your gearbox has no idea youre using a SS . To suggest otherwise is ridiculous.
    Synchros wear through age and or poor shifting , whether that be operator fault or failing components. Nissan designed synchros to speed up ( help) gear changes through a wide range of fast or slower shifts.., that's their function.
    There's no correlation between SS's and mechanical load and or synchro wear . Its either age or operator error concerning failing synchros.
    And as always , personal preference plays a big part in terms of how you like the 'feel' of shifter engagement.
     
    MickW and Harts like this.
  8. Harts

    Harts Active Member

    @ZEDXXX thanks for the input and the thread read!

    The short shifter had a lot of discussion in fact, being that the car is back on the road now, I am slowly forming my opinion of it. I have been for a few twisty drives and so far, so good, in terms of feel and driving experience. The short throw is taking a little getting used to in terms of gear selection, but the feel is great. The selection is notchy and firm, it is a brand new box, so I wouldn't mind if it settled about 10% with a few kms.

    I am getting used to the new set up now, and doing a couple of minor cosmetic and air flow mods as I settle in. Hopefully I'll have some update pictures coming soon.

    In excellent news, I ordered a set of MCA Reds for her so that I can put the Veilside Andrew V Racing wheels on and gain a bit more traction, as the stock tyre sizes, even with Hankook RS4s are struggling to maintain traction in a straight line. Currently 70% throttle is my friend :)
     
    ZEDXXX likes this.
  9. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    Lol thanks Cam and can't beat a good internet argument.

    All I can do is share my own experience having used the Z1 shifter at the drags (which is remarkably similar with the experience others have had using short shifters in motorsports applications), with a new gearbox, factory weighted shift knob that is actually heavier than the veilside etc aftermarket ones, synthetic oil and all that. Both myself with fuck all experience and a much more experienced driver (who still holds the unofficial record for a road registered Z down the quarter at 11 something) had the same issues over multiple runs driving my car.

    Refit the stock shifter and it's night and day. If you have not had the opportunity to make the comparison in a motorsports context you may well not notice the difference. I certainly didn't.

    Hence my comment.

    The good news is that nobody is telling the rest of you what to do and you are free to take it or make your own mistakes as I've said before! Anyways main keep enjoying the cars and sharing your progress :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2021
    Harts likes this.
  10. ZEDXXX

    ZEDXXX New Member

    Not really an argument, just basic geometry .
    As far as stock v short throw, theyre supposed to be nite and day re feel..
    I havnt pushed mine down the quarter mile, but have pushed it at the track along with some spirited road driving.

    That aside , your gearbox wouldnt have known the difference between stock and short, only the drivers operating it would, id say you just dont like the feel. Each to their own i say !
     
    Harts likes this.
  11. Harts

    Harts Active Member

    It takes all types, or so they say :)
     
  12. ZEDXXX

    ZEDXXX New Member

    Mca Reds are supposed to be the ducks nuts , certainly more tyre will be more confidence inspiring!
     
    Harts likes this.
  13. Harts

    Harts Active Member

    @ZEDXXX yes, thought long and hard about the coilovers, powertrix and kw were the other options. I figured support local and Aussie built for Aussie conditions was the go in the end.

    I believe the reds have the pillowball tops, so my 8.5 and 9.5 staggered Veilsides should slot on nicely. I'll be pairing them with RE-071RS all round and then the next stage will be Akebono brakes front and rear from the 370. Really can't wait for the Reds to drop!
     
    ZEDXXX likes this.
  14. Harts

    Harts Active Member

    LED H3C replacements because the halogens were definitely no good :cool:[​IMG]
     
  15. MintZ32

    MintZ32 Active Member

    How are they for brightness @Harts ? I have them in mine too can't remember the brand though. Brightness on mine is a little underwhelming :(
     
    Harts likes this.
  16. IB

    IB ?????

    The projector lenses on the low beam get a hazey film on them which makes the lights underwhelming. Pulling the headlights apart and cleaning those lenses makes a big difference.
     
  17. Harts

    Harts Active Member


    I haven't driven at night further than 100m mate, ill update you when I do.
     
    MintZ32 likes this.
  18. AndrewG

    AndrewG 双子によって吹か

    You can also clean the optics without dismantling the headlights using the technique described here:

    http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=25&rev=&no=0

    I was surprised at how much dust accumulates inside the headlight assembly. You can also clean the rear of
    the projector lens using the same technique. The cleaning made a big difference to the light output and makes
    the lights look brand new. You do have to remove the headlight assembly from the car to do the cleaning.
     
    MintZ32 and Harts like this.
  19. Harts

    Harts Active Member

  20. Harts

    Harts Active Member

    Lock down, clean up :)

    New Twin Turbo badge
    New Throttle Cover badge
    Re-painted Throttle Cover in original colour
    Sand and paint Balance Tube
    Sand and paint Radiator Top Mounts
    Install new Timing Cover Bolts
    Simple Green and Scrub
    Wire brush Plenum, Hicas Pump and Brake Master
    Add a few ties and clamps to looms and hoses to neaten up
    [​IMG]

    At least 6 days to go :p
     
    ZEDXXX, beaver, lidz and 2 others like this.

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