GREAT WHITE: 2000 model, TT Slicktop, version S

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by SIM300, Jan 2, 2013.

  1. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    I haven't touched the car in a very long time. I did have a few minutes the other morning & have narrowed the leak down as best I can & both sides are leaking from the VTC solenoid area. Not sure if it is the solenoid themselves or the sealant. So another plenum pull will happen when I get the time.

    On a side note, a friend of mine in the States got his hands on the 300ZX build numbers and configurations. My Z is one of two that was built in the month of March, 2000. There is a possibility that my specific model (2000 TT 2+0) is one of seven built in all of 2000. Thus for all final model (1999+) TT 2+0's, there were a total of 39 built. There was no option for 2+0 T-Top in the final run, they are all slicktop's.
     
  2. DUB

    DUB BRAMIS Photography

    Rare metal you got there mate.
     
  3. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    I only just realised the pic of my Z that seems to circulate the webz isn't in the build thread. Better fix that...

    [​IMG]
     
  4. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    Quick update:

    Car is still off the road due to oil leak. Two plenum pulls done and dusted thus far and the leak is considerably smaller. I believe I had a few small leaks & one big leak initially.

    To recap first sign of leak was burning oil from RHS turbo. There was a big pool of oil dripping from the bottom of the gearbox where it mounts to the engine (lowest part). The oil was coming from up top and running down both sides of the bell housing.

    I have fixed one leak as there is only oil on the ride hand side now. I believe the cam covers were leaking a little on both sides as the back of the block was covered in dirt, grease and grim.

    I jumped under the car and noticed a lot of oil coming from the insulator around the turbo inlet hard line (& running down the side of the gearbox still).

    [​IMG]

    Now I just have to track done where the leak itself is.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 27, 2015
  5. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    So all leaks seem to be sorted now.

    I believe the initial leak was from the cam covers and possibly around the VTC solenoid. After completing the first plenum pull and replacing a lot of things, I noticed a leak at the back of the engine still which was again from the cam covers. I replaced the OEM rubber crush washes with Z-Spec silicon ones and torqued them to OEM specs. But being silicon and softer there just wasn't enough pressure on them to seal. So after a second plenum pull and putting more pressure on the intake cam covers there was one last visible leak from the RHS turbo oil inlet hard-line insulation. That ended up being residue oil from the initial leak that was trapped and leaking when the engine warmed up.

    It's great to have it functional again. Crappy phone pics below :)

    [​IMG]
    At work

    [​IMG]
    Outside its bedroom
     
  6. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    Well that was short lived.

    Just arrived to work in the Z and the vents in my bonnet look like a chimney.
     
  7. A-Bris-Z

    A-Bris-Z Carcraze

    Maybe those vents do something after all ;)
     
  8. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    I'm having as much luck as you :rolleyes:
    Your engine probably has the Sim curse!
     
  9. A-Bris-Z

    A-Bris-Z Carcraze

    We need a specialist "SIM Z curse exorcist" to fix this!
     
  10. gmbrezzo

    gmbrezzo Moderator

    Is your crankcase pressurised causing oil leaks?
     
  11. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    The leak is still around the right hand side turbo - hence the smoke show.
     
  12. A-Bris-Z

    A-Bris-Z Carcraze

    Just on the valve cover gasket. I use a dab of the Permatex Ultra Grey gasket maker on those bits at the back that do the 90 degree turn and go over the VTC solenoids. Seems to seal it up nicely. I cant imagine the silicone crush washers would change things much as ultimately there will still be the same amount of torque pressing down on the gasket / seal surface.
     
  13. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Still a leak, or just old oil cooking off?
     
  14. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    Definitely still a leak, it was all squeaky clean before. I used a lot of degreaser in the area.

    The strange thing is that I've driven it quite a lot recently and no sign of leak & now it's very evident again.
     
  15. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

    could it be the degreaser buring off?

    that can be quite smokey.............
     
  16. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    No, as I've driven the car a lot since :)
    Whenever I use degreaser, I like to rinse it off with soapy water. I popped the bonnet when I got home last night for a quick look and the smoke is still from oil burning on the hot turbo/dump pipe. Will jump under the car again when I get the chance, but with limited time I might just take it somewhere to get it resolved.
     
  17. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    Boring update.

    So I removed the remainder of the insulation from the oil feed tube and it is rusted as hell. It must have a pin hole leak right above the turbine, as it is creating one hell of a smoke show. I've read of this happening before, so not uncommon. Unfortunately there no way to know the condition unless the insulation is removed. The tube that was exposed on either end is still in perfect condition.

    [​IMG]

    Chris (aka ezzupturbo) has kindly offered to send me a modified (mutated haha) spanner he has made to get the nut off where it attaches to the core. Nissan Aus want $90 for the tube, or it's $120 est. from CZP with delivery. Just trying to work out the best option, but I want it back on the road ASAP.

    Also did my tax return and will be getting a bit of money back, not sure if the Z has been good enough to be rewarded or not. Hmmm.
     
  18. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    Another boring update. No exciting cosmetic or performance upgrades unfortunately. But I was able to install another oil feed tube for the right hand side turbo.

    Getting the banjo bolt out was super easy, getting the flare nut undone was a different story. The modified spanner ezzupturbo sent me (thank you) was great, but the flare nut just wouldn't budge. Next plan of attack was using a crowsfoot with a uni-joint, extension and breaker bar, but that kept slipping off the nut.

    In the end I got rough with the tube and simply snapped it into pieces and eventually snapped it off clean right about the nut. Then I was able to crack the nut loose with a ring spanner and a f*@kload of force.

    What was left of the original oil tube.
    [​IMG]

    I couldn't see any pin holes in the tube, but I believe it started to sweat oil as it got hot. She phucked.
    [​IMG]

    I picked up a second hand tube from the forum (thanks Fists) in great condition, cleaned it up well and blasted it with compressed air to dislodge any junk that might be stuck in it. Trying to get everything in position was difficult.
    [​IMG]

    Once the flare nut was tightened down, it was time to get the banjo bolt in.
    [​IMG]

    The other end of the tube was at least 2cm from where it needed to be, so with one hand I was able to bent the tube down and get the banjo bolt in :eek: (sorry for the bad picture)
    [​IMG]

    I have ran the engine and gone for a short 10 minute drive. All the old old has burnt off & so far no signs of any leaks. Hopefully it will stay that way. I had a small coolant leak, but that was just some loose clamps. Once I get the clutch line heat shields installed again I shall take it for a longer drive and see how it goes.
    [​IMG]

    For anyone with the standard oil tube heat insulation still in place over the tube, I would recommend removing it. My OEM tube looked to be in perfect condition at both ends that were exposed, but as you can see it was a very different story underneath the insulation. I don't believe the insulation is vital & will happily drive without it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2016
  19. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    Would've been faster to pull the motor...
     
  20. Brock32

    Brock32 Active Member

    ^^ Said every Zed mechanic ever!
     

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