Z32 Getting my z going

Discussion in 'Technical' started by TTHaZaRd, Aug 22, 2021.

  1. TTHaZaRd

    TTHaZaRd New Member

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    I’m gunna say injectors are the issue. Removed all the plugs and they were all a nice shade of green. Cleaned up the terminals as best as possible. The all had 12.2-12.5 ohms reading but without removing them I guess I can’t tell if the are working. I did take out 2 of the plugs and they are black but not damaged. Tomorrow I might change the plugs. Ianz299 asked me if they were wet from fuel and no ignition. I checked 2 of them and they are dry. Is there a way to get them unstuck? I’m thinking I’m up for new injectors and injectors plugs at this point.
     
  2. Woo05h

    Woo05h Member

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    Try spraying start ya bustard into your inlets or vacuum lines see if it fires up...

    You could get lucky get it running and possibly get the fresh fuel through with some luck might work...

    But if the fuels gone like varnish only real option to to remove and get flowed and tested/ ultrasonic cleaned...

    Other thing I've seen with really old fuel.. first time starting the old fuel which would still be in the injectors glaze the plug.. basically foul it giving a very poor erratic spark and doesn't want to start.

    Side feeds are a mission to service but some places can do them..

    Other options a second hand set...

    But bit of a mission to replace them.

    But gives a chance to tidy up and do coolant line bypass while the plenum is off
     
  3. IB

    IB ?????

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    If the spark plug tips are black, then that could be the problem. Fouled plugs can prevent the engine from starting.
     
  4. Martin Williams

    Martin Williams Well-Known Member

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    Try the "Start ya bastard" Even if all of your injectors are stuck closed and you have a spark it will fire. Use Ivan129 procedure above. Remove air inlet hoses. open butterfly valves fully. spray start ya bastard in both sides, then try and start. If it does fire it wont run well as your AFM is bypassed. It will give you a good indication.
     
  5. TTHaZaRd

    TTHaZaRd New Member

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    Yep the ole start ya bastart allowed it to kick a few times. It didn’t start but at least I know spark is working. Injectors is a plenum out job by the looks of it..? Some of the screws are under it. I eventually want to get more power out of my z (about 350-400kw) so what injectors do you guys recommend? Apart from removing 101 vacuum hoses, is it fairly straight forward?
     
  6. Woo05h

    Woo05h Member

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    Taking the inlet plenum isn't too hard to do...
    Bit of a pain getting it off, but once you delete the water lines underneath its pretty easy.

    Im running 740cc injectors in my tt makes 305kw and still room to move.

    To go larger injectors those youll need a aftermarket ecu and a tune.

    https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Intake_Manifold_Removal
     
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  7. TTHaZaRd

    TTHaZaRd New Member

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    cheers for the link. I might try and do this myself. Did you also upgrade your fuel rail? Are yours still side flow injectors or did you convert it to a top flow setup?
     
  8. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    If you suspect your fuel injectors are faulty it’s a lot more economical to service them than replace with larger ones and the associated costs.

    I can do this for you in Sydney for $150/set plus parts. https://www.rgsperformance.com/fuel-injector-servicing/. If they can’t be restored via a service that will be evident when they are in the test bench.

    If you are upgrading your turbos or want to run E85 and need more fuel well that’s another thing entirely. But if your goal is to get your motor running $150-$200 to fix the problem makes a hell of a lot more sense than $2k+ on larger fuel injectors and the necessary fittings, a nistune board or standalone ECU, and time on the dyno.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2021
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  9. Woo05h

    Woo05h Member

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    No worries mate,

    Alot of good information on that site.

    With my car I stayed side feed and also I upgraded my rail with w 300' billets fuel rail.
    Top feed is better a set up however my power and aim for my car side feed was better option.
    I like everything hidden and looking standard.


    As Rob has said can get expensive going larger injectors with the snow ball of extra parts needed...

    But a service on your injectors and a top inlet manifold gasket should hopefully get you out of trouble and back on the road.
     
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  10. TTHaZaRd

    TTHaZaRd New Member

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    cheers rob I’ll contact you shortly!
     
  11. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    Sounds good - check junk/spam folder if you don't see an email reply
     
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  12. geron

    geron National Petroleum Equipm

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    If the injectors have been in the car since day one they will be stuck in there, be careful removing them as to not damage them, using too much force will result in them crumbling. My recommendation is to purchase a new set of the 'second' series style injectors with the adaptors from Z1 Motorsports. If you stick with the same size as Original 370cc then no issues but if 555+ an ECU tune will be required.

    Since the plenum will be out, grind the areas of the plenum where they interfere with the injector screws. Once this is done, in the future the injectors can be removed in next to no time. In addition to the small water hoses which are unnecessary.

    Clueless People have been going on about how hard it is to work on the Z32 but once some things are done they are freaking magic to work on and also prevent future issues from occurring.
     
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  13. geron

    geron National Petroleum Equipm

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    Also, if the car has been sitting around for 7 yrs and having issues starting, maybe fuel related such as the actual ULP too old or the fuel filter might be full of foreign matter or RUST from the tank or a fuel pump issue. Check these out first before removing injectors.
    Tank Rust can form inside the tank overtime. I have seen it with a friends Z and never thought such a thing would happen. Remove fuel sender unit and look inside with a torch. If the fuel is old it will have a very strong weird smell and surface rust on the walls of the tank and actual rust flakes on the bottom.
     
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  14. ivan129

    ivan129 Active Member

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    Are we there yet?
    Fuel will go off over time; I've certainly experienced that, however its probably better to store your car with a full tank to minimize condensation build up inside the upper part of the tank. If the fuel is off you can pick a different smell to it, especially if you place additives in the fuel like octane booster or injector cleaner then leave it for yonks. As geron said, tank rust would be a common in 300's now too because of their age. I cleaned out my tank and lined the inside of a while back. You can buy kits to do that.
     
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  15. TTHaZaRd

    TTHaZaRd New Member

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    I got it all out and yep, the injectors are stuck in the rail. I used a rubber mallet on one to try and tap it out and ended up damaging it. I’ve have been informed on a way to free them up by slowly wiggling them side to side (cheers Ian) so I’m going to do that.

    I will be doing the deletes that are recommended. The one I’m on the fence with is the PCV bypass/delete. Does anyone have any issues having done this? I was told I will need a catch can for this. I am Unsure about this.

    yea I had old fuel which I removed almost all of it via the boot as my tank does not have drain holes (of course) but would the little bit left in there mixed with the old fuel still allow the engine to fire? Should I look at removing the tank to get rid of all of the old stuff? I have replaced filter as well.
    When I removed fuel rail and injectors it still had some of the old stuff in there. Would that be because the injectors weren’t working so the fuel wasn’t moving back to the tank?

    I appreciate everyones input! You guys are great! :cool:
     
  16. Woo05h

    Woo05h Member

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    Yep will still have some of your old fuel in the rail for sure..

    While you have it off getting the injectors service can check for blockages and check the return line to the tank isnt blocked.

    When i did my car I removed the pcv valves and blocked off the rear valve cover breather.

    The front two inlet valve cover breathers i ran into a breather catch can and then capped off the holes in the turbo inlet . (If that makes sence)

    I've had no issues at all with this set-up for both cruising or spirited driving.
     
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  17. geron

    geron National Petroleum Equipm

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    I don't see the need to remove the PCV system unless if you want to make more work for yourself!
    Remove the PCV valves and give them a clean with degreaser or petrol and put them back in.
    Also, I suggest to replace the PCV hoses with silicone versions that can be purchased as a complete kit from Z1 Motorsports and you'll not have an issue in the future.
    It doesn't cost that much to do and easy while the plenum is off.
     
  18. rob260

    rob260 Moderator Staff Member

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    I remove the PCV valves every time.

    Less plumbing, less clutter, no dumping oil out the valve cover on hard cornering. Very common procedure and speaking anecdotally the front breathes provide perfectly adequate ventilation without needing to run a catch can.

    And I have all the parts including the silicon hoses right here in Sydney.
     

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