Blast from the past build (PIC HEAVY)

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by Claymen, Oct 26, 2013.

  1. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    Seems to be the same spiel on most places. The LT10 was the lower model that might be the 4 driver one.

    Don't have VTC, JUN cam gears. Thermo fan's will probably end up being run from a separate controller and control both the stock thermo and my main thermo.

    WMI? Not familiar with that term on a car. In the IT world it means Windows Management Instrumentation which I don't think applies in a car..

    My water/meth injection kit is independent and has it's own controller and boost cut etc. Snow Performance kit.

    End of the day I have the LT12 already, can get it upgraded for not a lot of $$ and it will do most of what I need. I have the laptop software and dongle for it, loom adapter to make wiring it in easy so might as well use it.
     
  2. Vader

    Vader Just another guy

    Regarding your exhaust bung, use an old O2 sensor. That's what I'm going to do :)
     
  3. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    That would require having old O2's lying around. They were ditched years ago as they were stuffed and pretty much welded into the old stock dumps from rusting.
     
  4. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    So been busy today. Picked up a few pieces to finish off the intake valve covers and do the PCV pickup relocation.

    Some decent hose, barbs and replacement thread tapping kit (used later) and a 1/4" BSP tapered thread tap.

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    Here are the two covers after tapping, and some cleaning, still a bit of mess there but nothing major. Still needed to re-attach the baffles.
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    And here is the finished product. Used some small M4x0.7 screws with thread locker. Drilled and tapped the old lugs where there was enough meant to do so. Managed to snap my first thread tap off on one of the covers, no chance in hell of getting it out but not that critical as there were enough remaining screws to hold it in tight.
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    And finally installed the intake valve covers onto the engine.
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    Starting to look like a proper engine. Also installed the rameyz heavy duty idler studs and temporarily mounted an old set of idlers to check fitment. Bit of threadlocker red to hold the bastards. These were a pain in the ass to get torqued up. The old two nut method wasn't workable as there wasn't quite enough thread for the two nuts I had. Torqued as much as possible then in with the threadlocker.

    Close up of the pickup placement. Basically followed the guide on tt.net
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    It doesn't look like a lot of work, but tapping all those threads, drilling them out in the first place and then reinstalling everything does take time. I also cleaned up all the bolts for the cover with a wire wheel, new crush washers and oiled up the rubber seal before installing so she should be good to go.
     
  5. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    good to see progress .. gonna get some help with the timing belt this time mate :D:D:D
     
  6. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    Got 3 torque wrenches to help me. That should be plenty lol.

    Just gotta figure out what I am doing with my upper plenum now. Probably just get it powder coated. Already cut off all the old water lines that we don't need here in Aus. So the re-route is nice and simple for turbo water lines.
     
  7. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    nice man , dont mess around getting stuff powder coated !! get it over the pits dude then you can play with all the minor stuff later
     
  8. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    Nah gonna get everything painted, cleaned up and look mint. I'd rather go over the pits with something that is immaculate. And I'd rather not have to pull the plenum again to get it painted later.

    I've gone to the effort of painting the underbody, powdercoating the suspension components, subframe etc. Might as well get it all done now than pull shit off later.
     
  9. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    So following up on a few things.

    This was the little lug I was looking for which is used to bolt the rear timing cover to the engine.
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    Got the rear timing covers on anndd my blingy cam gears. JUN adjustable all around. Yes I could have gone BDE but when I got these, they didn't really exist.
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    Mmmm shiney
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    Only crappy thing was the powder coating on the core made it super tight to get on cam ends so had to sand down some of the paint to get them on. That and I put a small crack in a bit of the chrome on one of the gears, but shit happens. Still looks mint and it's on the face so away from the belt.
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    One more shot of the PCV relocation so people get an idea of how it all sits when together.
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    Also picked up a few water lines. Although I have now realized that half of the ones I bought are useless as they were molded for the under plenum lines. Ah well, sure I will find a use for them somewhere.
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    That said I need to sort out the remaining water lines. I've been digging through the forum and looks like some gates safety stripe stuff. Unless someone has other recommendations? Although will probably have a look at what Enzed can sort out for me tomorrow morning.

    This weekend I'll look at pulling the turbo's back off and bash the heat shields to fit. Bought some more very high temp paint so I can then paint and bake the shields and make them look good.

    Now I just need to find that bloody missing bolt that goes into the lower part of the rear timing belt covers. Got one of them but not the other one.
     
  10. nick300zxtt

    nick300zxtt Member

    With your pcv relocation, where will you run them to? The stock points on the plenum? I am interested in doing this also so i am eager to see what you come up with. It is looking great so far.
     
  11. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    I still don't get this PCV relocation concept. What's wrong with the two OEM breathes directly in front of the ones you tapped?
     
  12. ryzan

    ryzan Moderator Staff Member

    The stock pcv system works like a circuit, drawing crankcase gases out the exhaust cam covers and fresh air is drawn in through the intake cam covers (in certain situations both intake and exhaust cams will have crankcase gases flowing out of them). IMO relocating the exit point to the intake cam covers is basically the same as bypassing the rear half of the pcv system as fresh air gets drawn in at the front then gets sucked into the engine at the newly tapped points anyway.
     
  13. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

  14. nick300zxtt

    nick300zxtt Member

    That is a great write up.
     
  15. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    Indeed it is. Additionally I am going to go down the route of using some hard lines instead of just the rubber to get it cleaner looking. Also going to do the same for my turbo's and make up some hard water lines to better fit the setup since I dont have under plenum pipes anymore.
     
  16. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    So got up to a few things over the weekend. First of which was modifying the heat shields to fit with the MS manifolds. So this meant the turbo's came back off..

    Started off pretty manky but after much grinding cuttng and some wire wheeling they came out ok.. [​IMG]
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    Then of course some paint.
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    Similar paint to my manifolds, you bake at 200c to finish them off.

    Picked up new bolts for my coil pack channels or whatever they are called, starting to look all clean and tidy now.
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    Andddd.. decided to put the timing belt on.
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    What a pain in the ass it was to fit it though, ahh brings back memories. That said I still ended up pulling the intake covers off and using the wrench point on the cam to tighten up the cam gear this time. Waaaay easier than doing this in the car the first time.

    Heat shields are installed and came out looking pretty good.
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    And of course I managed to slip and chip some paint off the covers. Oh well.

    It really is starting to come together.
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    Prepared to install the new fuel rail temp sensor and did actually finish off installing the injectors with all new insulators on the top etc.
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    Installed my non-functional VCT's to seal the intake cover. Many many thanks to Sanouske for sending them over. I owe you a beer if you are over this way.
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    Oh Oh and before I forget, my most favorite tool of the week. Stud extractor!
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    Hard to explain but basically you chuck a ratchet on the end where you can see. And then you slide the body of it over the stud, effectively you pin the stud between the black grippy bit and the more you wrench on it the tighter it gets. This thing pulls out studs like a hot knife to butter. For $25-30 I highly recommend it!

    And one last pretty picture to finish the post off.
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  17. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

    this build looks SO clean and tidy. im beyond jealous. great work.
     
  18. nick300zxtt

    nick300zxtt Member

    That is a gret idea. Just remember to put a bead on the tube to help with sealing.
     
  19. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    hows that zed coming along dude... got that engine in yet?
     
  20. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    Not yet mate, gonna make up some hardlines for the turbo water lines and PCV relocation.
     

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