BLACK BEAST BUILD Slicktop R-Spec

Nice plans! I can't wait to see it underway.

 

Just putting things in to perspective a little here:

If you were to run 750cc injectors at 100% duration @ standard pressure that would flow 270 litres per hour so that's good you most likely have plenty of redundancy in the pump. (all good here)

But dash ten line the whole system!!?? come on a little over kill don't ya think?

How long do you think it would take to empty 270 litres from a drum with a 5/8" hole in the bottom of it?
That's a 15.8mm hole by the way, aside from the fact you need to increase the pressure you can gravity feed more fuel than you need through a line that size (if the tank were above the fuel rail but it isn't in a Z32 but that's not the point here).

- 8 lines will be plenty, way more than you need even

Remember you are dealing with fluids here & a restriction at one end of the system or the other will make no difference to the pump at all, it will still "feel" the same load from it.

Look at the size of the hole(s) in the injectors then work in some redundancy & times it by six, hell add some more for kicks - I bet you're still well under 10mm = ~3/8" = -6

So yeah -8 will be HEAPS big enough & will NOT hurt the pump or flow etc.

 

I have a turbosmart with -8an reg ..thats plenty big for a return line

As mungzy said I think -10an is overkill.

I will look into it more but I cant see a problem with keeping it all -8an all the way same as my reg and fuel rail .Going to add a speed controller too.

 

Sure 8AN is fine. The reason I brought it up was if you buy a 30 foot roll of 10AN as you said. There is enough line in the roll to use it each way. So you dont need to buy another roll of 8AN to run back to the surge tank. Saves $80.

Providing the system isnt restricted you shouldnt need the speed controller. Its cheaper to just make the line 10AN all the way through than pay $300 for the speed controller to throttle the speed back.

The SX reg I have has a 10AN entry line and an 8AN return line. I think I only paid about $150 for it. Seeing I have a length of 10AN left just going to use that as a return line.

 

speed controller is also to keep the fuel cooler as its not a full on track car

 

yep, fair call.

I dont expect to get better economy on the track than 100klms a tank of E85 with a fuel cooler in the return line so I expect I shoudnt have this problem

 

you should get more than that .normal tank?... I havent ruled out a fuel cooler yet.. easy to add

 

I only get 160-180 klms out if the stock full tank of Vpower and stock turbos 14 psi setup at the track on my road car.

Reckon 100 klms is about right at 20psi and GT28RS's on race day. I will be happily surprised if its better.

 

more progress today ..

I modified the UAS hicas brackets a little so they would swivel up .
managed to get 25mm higher for bump steer .just need to drill new holes once car is at ride height


began work on the front camber arms.
I cut the box section a little to allow the camber arm bracket to sit higher .
..looking at about 15-20mm


modifying bracket and holes to sit higher

 

front sway bar ,ikeya tension rod and UAS chromoly Radius rod brace


the radius rod brace bolts onto the original lower control arm holes .worked out great.



theres a lot more work/hours involved in setting up suspension than I realised ..
so much for throwing in some coilovers and camber arms
point of no return now

 

You really need to weld up those holes and redrill dude.

 

dont judge yet ..far from finished ..

just a test fit to see how much more to go .. rewelding and extendinding the bottom of bracket

 

This is going to be one hell of a (black) beast when it's finished!

Rob I've seen your zed around my area a few times, your machine looks like it's hunting for cars to eat! :zlove:

 

Hmm, are you going to extend the top of the bracket too so where the arm mounts is also higher?

Either way, I was also expecting you to redrill into the body to raise the studs but didn't see this coming, definitely looks like the easier option. Awaiting further progress

 

not sure what you mean
raising the bracket is the same as raising the studs .arm mounts gets raised with bracket...definitely easier option

about 25mm is whats needed ..thats what I'm aiming for

 

Its not the body and the bolts that are the issue. That bracket has a ledge half way up and to get the bracket to move up anymore you need to cut the chassis out. Very sticky situation. I have resolved to cut the ledge out and weld a new higher one in.

The horizontal bolt is an issue as the ends preject even further out than the bracket, so you have to cut even futher out.

I am keen to see what Beast does to get his 25mm seeing I havent started cutting yet.

Plasma cutter is ready though.

Quick question. Is the radius rod horizontal now when you put the car on the ground? Could be an issue if it isnt.

 

Good points tekky, once you perfect this willing to do mine It's probably the only thing I'm not happy with at the moment.

 

Not an issue better if radius rod is slightly sloping down, as then it has slight anti dive, which we found better on the Slot Car. We have three positions for this, or two plus can space washer under the two bolts at rear, where it bolts to the lower control arm,if want ore or finner stettings.

 

Hmmm, been thinking about this. The radius rods sole job is to locate the front axel fore an aft depending on compression of the springs.

But since it works on a "radius" it implies the axel actually moves forward under compression and unloading. This must put a bit of a load on the upper control arm cause it doesnt move forward and back only up and down.

Gives me a new appreciation for the R34 suspension design with two inboard attatchment points without radius rods. It must not move forward at all under suspension compression yet doesnt have a nose squat issue.

I would maybe suggest that in an ideal world any antidive from the radius rod geometry should be trimmed out and the spring rate should determine antidive.

John, explain how moving the axel forward under compression creates antidive? I know the twisting of the front upper arms contributes. But we have removed that now with your twisting arms.

 

Looks like John is talking about the static angle of the radius rod in relation to the ground as being relevant to dive, if the rod is parallel to the ground then no anti dive.

Anti dive on a race car can be problematical, particularly where the braking areas are bumpy. Like at QR.