BLACK BEAST BUILD Slicktop R-Spec

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by BLACK BEAST, Feb 22, 2010.

  1. BLACK BEAST

    BLACK BEAST SLICKTOP TT R-SPEC

    My steering rod ends need to be even longer
    I'm lucky JP has the old ones from the slot car which are the right size as our pivot mods are the same.

    just make sure the rod ends on your lower control arms are beefy .
    JP bent the original SPL ones (which arent that good) and put 18mm ends on his.

    D-project isnt too bad ..I have the rear upper camber arms ,strong steel, but I threw the female rose joint in the bin and put a stronger 16mm male one
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2010
  2. UNIQUE ZED

    UNIQUE ZED Zed Racing World

    Yep

    You know what is going on Tecky. Yes this is next on the list but not Ebay crap. BTW how is it extra steering lock, magic? Rob is getting custom Billet alloy ones with quality rod ends, not FLing Woo.

    They need to be longer factory set up and much longer with this roll centre change. The way we set it up, it automatically gives anti dive by changing the angles of the radius rods sloping down slightly more as a bonus. The other way it can be done is simply spacing the Ikea outer ball joints down. Although this changes the factory geometry too much and the lower control arm over powers the top arm and gets too much camber change in compression. Also not shown on the pics, but it has a Chrome Molly plate welded on the other side of the engine cross member for strength.
    Next step is to raise the upper front control arm pivot points which can only go up around 10mm without major surgery. 10 mm in the equasion is way better than nothing though.

    Also before you try this at home, you can only redrill the lower control arm inner points on engine cross member, if you have aftermarket arms with inner rod end, allowing the clearance to be able to do this.
     
  3. Benny_C

    Benny_C About as subtle as...

    This phatt stance FTW!!! :D

    Very impressive spec you're building your Zed up to. I'm loving following this thread, no stuffing around, no time wasting, just action!! keep up the great work! :)
     
  4. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    Is there room on the top of the J arm to shift the camber pivot DOWN? this will have a similar effect as lifting the inner point UP, I guess it depends on wheel & tyre choice & how much work you want to do :)
     
  5. UNIQUE ZED

    UNIQUE ZED Zed Racing World

    Yes sir


    I may have been confusing, we did it this way by choice for reasons explained and yes the Ikea F arms have opitonal spacers and different sizes to space the female Rod end outer down, this also raises roll centre but not best way to do it.
     
  6. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby


    The D project rod ends are Japanese and the tie rod ends are Chrome Molley, not Fling woo. (however my bottom arms are Fling Woo :( )

    Just keep the pics coming. Take one of the Chrome molly plate on the cross member you talked about.
     
    Nigel300 likes this.
  7. Nigel300

    Nigel300 New Member

    is fling woo related to bok choy by any chance?
     
  8. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    It's his cousins factory across the road. :D:p
     
    Nigel300 likes this.
  9. MikeZ32

    MikeZ32 das Über member

    lol flat pack suspension from Ikea anyone? fling woo and bok choy all buy it from them. :D
     
  10. BLACK BEAST

    BLACK BEAST SLICKTOP TT R-SPEC

    Topfeed rails

    They have finally arrived !!
    Mattz topfeed rail kit ....bargain just over $1000au delivered
    [​IMG]

    fuel system almost complete just need surgetank made and braided lines/fittings
    [​IMG]
     
    Nigel300 likes this.
  11. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    I love those rails :zlove:

    And couldn't you get a bigger fuel pump? :p 1/2" fittings on that thing?
     
  12. BLACK BEAST

    BLACK BEAST SLICKTOP TT R-SPEC

    -10an

    but going to run -10an from surgetank and -8an on the feed to match the rails
     
  13. a2zed

    a2zed Guest

    Make sure you keep the feed from the pump to rail -10, aeromotive specifily say not to step it down, pump life will be greatly reduced.
     
  14. BLACK BEAST

    BLACK BEAST SLICKTOP TT R-SPEC

    so you are saying to reduce it right at the rail?
     
  15. a2zed

    a2zed Guest

    It shouldn't be reduced at all, but at the rail would present the least restriction because directly after that it's through the reg anyway.
     
  16. BLACK BEAST

    BLACK BEAST SLICKTOP TT R-SPEC

    would putting a pump speed controller make a difference?
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Only reason they would say not to reduce down is friction losses, so if you reduce at the rail it would be fine.

    You got a pump curve for that thing? I can probably work it out for you.

    Edit. I reckon the speed controller would have an effect, but those pumps have a pretty flat curve, so less benefit than you might think.
     
  18. a2zed

    a2zed Guest

    Pump controller will help, there is a curve on thier site chrispy.
     
  19. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    Its 450 litres an hour. I have one too. :D

    When you buy a 20 foot roll of 10AN alloy pipe there is enough pipe to run to the front of the car and back to the surge tank. So you dont even need any 8AN pipe.

    Make sure the Reg has 10AN inlets/outlets as well Beast. I got an SX one that looks just right.
     
  20. URHYNS

    URHYNS Well-Known Member

    ... im sorry, but i will cease to follow this thread.

    It's just too hard core for me.

    When it's my turn, ill take my car to a shop.

    "Hi, here is my car, if you open the glove box, there is $25,000 in cash. Take it. Ill be back in three months, and when my car pulls 450rwkw, you get another $25,000. Baiiii!!!!!!!!!"
     

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