Big Single - 2 Speed Glide Project

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by Boll!, May 20, 2018.

  1. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    Hi All.
    So i have been tinkering on this project for a while now and have finally got a bit of time to start a thread on the build, so here's some info.

    As the title suggests i have gone down the single turbo route, Its a Proboost 42 with a billet wheel.
    I have had a crack at the manifold myself, and though its not the prettiest thing getting around, i think it will be reasonably functional.

    Trans is a transbraked 2 speed powerglide.

    The doner car is a 2+2 which i bought from a fella who had the cage fitted and was running an LS1.
    Its a bit rough but was at a very reasonable price. but i didnt realise he had cut off the the trans mount on the drivers side, so a new one had to be made and welded in place and i modified the Nissan trans crossmember.

    Next thing on the list will be mounting and fabrication of the intercooler end tanks and pipework.
    The intercooler core i am using is 610 X 350 X 115.

    Im going to be having a go at a majority of the fabrication type of work myself, so it will be still a long way off
    yet, but will get their one day.

    Photos arnt great, but gives off the general idea, if anyone wants clearer pics of anything in general just yell out.

    Thanks guys.
    Col

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  2. badxtc

    badxtc kirby's bitch

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    keep up the good work man , looking good, i cant wait to see this thing , should be good, thats for sure
     
  3. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    Thanks mate.
    Yeah should be a good thing, still a long way to go yet but it’s all in fun.

    Intercooler piping next, now I just need to teach myself how to TIG aluminium... YouTube here I come
     
  4. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    Nice work Col,
    I think you downplaying the skill you have used to achieve that exhaust manifold. A lot has gone into that well done.

    I have a 2 speed power glide transbrake 300. I didn't build the car and i have only driven the car to the local mechanic to have a rego inspection but im curios why you chose the power glide. My gut feeling is the gearing is very short. But i haven't done any investigation into the actual ratios. I did a top speed of about 8o and the torque converter is a apparently a 4000 rpm stall so maybe it was still not fully locked up. Have you done any top speed calculations ? Im wondering if the car would top out before the end of a 1/4 mile. Im assuming your planning to drag race that car as your bumper appears to be.......... a little anti social. Ill be keeping a close eye on any updates so please keep them coming.
     
  5. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    Hey Thanks Mate.
    The manifold turned out pretty good, i tried to TIG weld where i could, mainly to get some practice, I'm kinda teaching myself as im going, have probably held a TIG for a total of 10 Hours, so needless to say those welds arnt fantastic looking.
    I didn't weld all the manifold in one hit, so i did have the opportunity to clean up a majority of the internals as i was going with the die grinder.

    As for the glide, there were a couple of reasons i went down that route, mainly recommendations from those who have more experience in this area.
    The guy who built it and done the conversion (Hugh at race glides Australia) recommended a glide, Cheaper to build than a TH400, and since i wont be running a huge tire, no need for that low first gear, and a lighter rotating mass.

    So, i think with 3:69 diff gears with a 27'' high tire (27/10.5 R15) @ 150MPH (241 KPH) will be doing around 6800 rpm and if i were to change out to 4:11 diff gears with the same stats will be around 7600 rpm.

    Yeah it will be a drag car, and hey, who doesn't love some anti-social looking kit.

    I'm pretty sure i know the car you bought, i believe it was in my Gumtree watch list for a while lol
     
  6. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    It was a QLD car built by Ryan. he's done some really good work to it. Its wired up like a 3 phase industrial machine. I sent a mate to look at it and we laughed about the auto prior to seeing the car. he's had many many high dollar rotaries and 2jz cars. he rang me and i was just waiting for auto jokes but he was very impressed. as much as i have always hated autos and planned to rip it straight out before i had even seen the car i am also pretty impressed with how it works in the 5km i drove the car at legal limits. Now its still not the sort of car i want but for the purposes of drag racing in what would otherwise be a laggy manual i can see it is going to be much faster down a strip.
    Apparently the car ran 10.3 @127mph with an auto or some
     
  7. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    whoops that time was from memory just checked out what was actually written.
    12.3 @127mph with manual and slicks with some wheel spin, and bounce till 3rd
    original owner thinks it could have run 10 with the 2 speed glide so long as it didn't run out of gearing.
     
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  8. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    Col,
    Can you take some pics of your intake manifold. looks similar to mine but seems a lot lower. I like these type of manifolds as you can actually work on the engine. But mine is much higher than yours so i will need a much bigger bonnet scoop to cover. id like to have as small a hump as possible
     
  9. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    Looking at the MPH its definitely making power, a glide and traction an i'm betting it would be in the 10s
    My best time is 11.26 @ 122 MPH, that is a manual, Running MT ET Street tyres, the old style tread pattern.
    Stock rear springs, cheap KYB shocks, but have adjustable rear camber arms.
    I had the rear set up with a little bit of positive camber with the theory of launch, the car will squat a bit resulting in more tyre surface on the road.........Seems to work, if the track has been prepped well i don't really have a traction issue, but in saying that i think i can be more aggressive off the line
     
  10. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    I can most definitely do that, will try get some today and post some pics up, and your right, its amazing how much more open the engine bay looks without the standard intake.

    I will measure how far the intake is protruding through the bonnet too if you like.
    My engine is sitting lower than it would on OEM engine mounts, At the moment its sitting on solid mounts i cut out of a piece of Nylon trying to get it down as low as possible, im guessing maybe 10mm lower than standard engine mounts, i will measure them too.

    Cheers
     
  11. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    Ok id be interested to know how tall your plenum is above the intake manifold. Also did you build it? yep standard plenum sucks. I can actually work on my engine now. just cant shut the bonnet. damn it
     
  12. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    OK, so with the bonnet closed, at the highest point which is a cap screw head at the front of the intake is 35mm protruding through the bonnet.
    The intake box is 112mm high from where it mounts on the lower intake manifold.
    Total box size is about 400 long, 140 wide and 112 high.
    My engine mounts are 61mm high, off memory a stock mount is about 74mm.
    As for the intake, no i didnt fab this one.
    Hope this helps.
    Col

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  13. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    Thanks Col,
    My plenum is 380 long, 160 wide and 135 high. It sticks through my bonnet about 40mm. But i have a carbon bonnet so this may be the reason it seems comparable to yours even though your plenum is thinner and your mounts are lower. Actually the plenum is not the real problem its the intake from the front mount intercooler to the 75mm throttle body that causes the most obstruction. Looks like gonzo's nose.
     
  14. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    By the way i love your head unit. :)
     
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  15. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    You should be able to get some to blend a bulge into the bonnet.
    I know what you mean though, need to try not to kill the lines of the Zed bonnet.
    I’m going to try for a wide long bulge rather that a skinny one and try blend it into the existing curves
     
  16. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    Yeah im sure i can get someone to make a better one than the one i made from wood. It actually looks ok with all the stupid vents and lines in the carbon bonnet. That car is black so it sort of all blends in. I will get it a bit lower with some pipework mods and hopefully come up with something that flows with the bonnet. The good news is that 300zx bonnets are only worth $100 so i can afford to have a few goes at it.
     
  17. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    LMFAO wood.... yep now your onto something.
    Yeah cheap and plenty of them getting around.
    I have 2 and a fibreglass bonnet... but that’s too nice to butcher... I should just sell it
     
  18. IB

    IB ?????

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    Is that the VG30DET that was for sale near Canberra?
     
  19. Boll!

    Boll! Well-Known Member

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    Hey IB, yeah that’s the one.
     
  20. jellybeans

    jellybeans Active Member

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    I was building it from aluminium but decided it was too slow and wanted to get an idea how it would look before i wasted to much material. I also had a few design limitations as the original owner had cut a hole quite a bit bigger than necessary. I was originally thinking of a bulge like the Jun bonnie ville 300 but smaller but i hate that look. Mine is i guess more like a ford xr8 shape and i think i prefer it now ive seen it. Anyway Maple and marine ply are quick to shape and smell delicious.
     

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