Hi folks, I took my car in for a wheel alignment not to long ago and the guy mentioned that my front upper control arms are bent. I was wondering what peoples recommendations were? I've had a look on the forum and on czp and these seem to be my options UAS Powertrix Stillen Top Speed AMS Am I correct that UAS is the only style with a pivot to reduce stresses on the arm due to non linear travel? I'll probably be looking at replacing my suspension with KYB agx struts and eibach springs at the same time. Cheers, Simon
Hi Mike, No i'm not low at all. With the KYB/Eibach spring setup my understanding is it will drop the car around 20mm, so again not to crazy. From memory (10 years) I think the suspension guy suggested the adjustable arms that are currently in there because of uneven tyre wear I was getting on 19" rims. Cheers, Simon
I vaguely remember him saying something along the lines of due to the relatively short arms and bumpy roads means the camber is pulled out of alignment while travelling over bumps??? Not quite sure now, it was so long ago. Seemed plausible at the time Given that a new set of standard arms will be close to $350 any way. What are peoples thoughts on the brand listed above? Cheers, Simon
Eibach springs will drop ride height 20mm from stock height, if your stock springs have sagged 25mm, Eibach springs will lift your car 5mm. Details how to measure: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1110637#post1110637 Get a set of used OEM FUCA's for a six pack or two off a forum member and fit the Whiteline KCA336 Front Camber Adjustment Kit and it will sort your tyre wear issue. It will also be legal, safe, serviceable and cheap. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/...3&Car_Type=300&UID=2014062321415660.242.3.206 They are about half price from the states.
Thanks brisz Thanks for the height details! I'll check it out tonight. That looks like it might be a good way to go. especially considering i'm not looking to lower it very much. Cheers, Simon
Replaced the standard arms because they had cracks in the arms ,Replaced the arms with Stillan Brand arms no problems since I am useing KYB Super Gas Shocks.
If you have an air chisel and a press then fitting the Whileline or SuperPro adjustable kits to the stock arms is a a good option. The cost of paying someone to fit the kits to the stock arms could make the UAS arms better value for money.
Not knocking JP and the UAS adjustable arms(JP has the best of intentions with all his A/F items), but after numerous sets of UAS(and other)A/F arms over the past 12 years, almost every set has failed(some much more seriously than others). This issue has been researched countless times over several years and is a result of a much more complex 300ZX suspension geometry problem than one might reasonably suspect. I am currently running Chinese-made adjustables(with a large rectangular centre section that clamps shut with Allen Bolts, after being adjusted). These have been in use for 18 months and appear to be standing up to everyday usage without any obvious signs of distortion/bending thus-far(most likely 'famous last words').
Here is another option for aftermarket FUCA that people might not know about http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-negative-camber-upper-a-arms-nissan-r32-z32-hp10.html
Cusco's aren't adjustable, you buy them to a specified length +/-5mm, -10mm, etc to 'adjust' your camber when lowering.
Not quiet, that is the situation for the listed R32's: For the Z32: These are "negative camber" items, from the above I interrupt that -15mm will give 4° to 4.5° and 1°30' to 2° before/after. These are set length parts. When correcting inside tyre wear you need "positive" camber adjustment. (although actual setting may be negative, but less negative.) These are fully sik dorifto mod that will make tyre wear worse with no other modification.
But as you say, they're set length, you buy the length you need to get the camber you need. Where is the adjustment if the length can't be changed? JIC arms are the same deal.
-15mm is the only size they sell for a Z32, shortening the FUCA will increase negative camber and increase tyre wear on the inner edge on a street car with out any other modifications.
I think the best option.... ...is to shim the bracket. Bugger of a job as it's hit and miss, you might need to do it a few times to get it perfect. If you don't need to constantly adjust them this is the best option I reckon.
