Basically what happens is I'll be driving along and then the power cuts off, and i see dash lights illuminate (not 100% sure which ones, I see HICAS and another) then the dash lights go out and the power comes back on. All of this occurs within a second or less. It is like the car is turning itself off, and then back on again. I previously thought this was an ignition switch issue, but replaced that and the problem still exists. -ECU has been swapped -CAS has been swapped -New engine wiring harness -Has an S2 PTU (could be failed?) -Code 55 Any ideas? I was thinking perhaps immobiliser was playing up, but I'm a bit in the dark on this one.
faulty connection some where? but the question is where, if lights remain on it wouldnt be the main line,
Does it happen only under certain conditions? e.g. heavy electrical load - lights on/stereo amp? If so, check battery condition/alternator output etc. Could be dodgy regulator spiking or cutting output. If NOT, can you induce the symptom under braking/cornering etc? Possible bad engine continuity fuse (big blue one in engine bay) or relay. Check ECU loom connector is fully inserted/tightened across it's length.
No. I've had it happen at the top of third at the drags, and i've had it at 5 kilometres an hour in traffic. Battery has also been swapped. Will check: alternator output regulator spiking relay / fuses Keep the ideas coming
weird question, but do u have water at the feet on your floor in the passenger side? something to do with a cracked/burst hose in the dash, my dad had the same problem.
Neutral sensor thingy?? Sorry for my non-knowledgeable terminology.... Not long back, I was coming up to a roundabout and dropped the car back into 2nd at approx 40km/h when the car stalled and all the lights on the dash lit up etc.... knocked it back into 1st, gave it a tickle and dropped the clutch and it started and hasn't done it since.... Thinking it might have been the neutral sensor but don't really know enough to be sure, but it might be a good place for you to start.... Cheers,
-Check/clean the battery terminals-Done Alternator output-Done Static charge 12.6V, Running charge 14.3V. Is there anything else I need to do to check this? Regulator spiking-how do I check this? As above but looking for spikes? Service manual refers to testing pins on the backside of the alternator, is this needed? Relay / fuses- What am I looking for here. None of the relays cause the engine to die when moved around/wiggled. Should I just be checking for continuity between pins 3/5 with battery connected? ECU harness: Not yet
Dirty earth? Sounds like one of your main earth connectors on the block/plenum is either loose or dirty and loosing contanct momentarily and killing power. If you can't find a loose/dirty/damaged earth, rule it out by running some extra earth leads to the brackets of coils 3 and 4. This will earth the plenum signifantly to cater any loss from a bad earth. If your problem persists then it's elsewhere, but like I said, it *sounds* like an earth issue.
Good advice Andy Also, was any work done prior to fault, ie: plenum pull, immob install? Check fuel pump relay and fuses etc in drivers footwell are all secure. Also IGN barrel connections.
No plenum pull / Immobiliser install or much of that sort. I can't actually remember when it started, i've just kind of put up with it till now, but it seems to be happening more often now.
An intermittent fault in the fuel pump relay will cause it to cough and die, but immediate shutdown I'd say would be more related to power being cut to all injectors and/or coils suddenly. The fact that it kicks again immediately makes me lean towards earthing issue. If it was due to the harness or ecu I'd say maybe 2 or so cylinders would fail, but not all plus youd get an ingnition fault code. (same as ptu code...but I can't remember it ). A fault in the immobiliser can cause this, but I'd expect it not to restart after it shutsoff. Ignition barrel...it could be the start position contact temporarily breaking, but he reckons he's checked it. A relay could cause it, but I can't think of which one that would do it, as the dash lights come on straight away. Question: Does the stereo die intermittently as well or is it purely the motor? I still think it's an earthing issue. Try running an 2 alternate earths in 50 amp wiring to the middle coil pack brackets (cylinder 3 and 4) and see how you go, if it works then you have a bad earth to find. edit: BTW the 2 earthing points in a stock setup is 1) right next to the battery and 2) On the transmission bell housing. (inadequate IMHO)
Hey man last time i needed a new battery i went to supercheap and they gave me a free battery test which tested the alternator, battery and wiring harness in one go. Might rule out something for no work. Had an auto leccy look at it?
