How about taking your car to a specialist such as Joe Imbesi in Montrose as suggested in the response to your first post. I understand that it is a fair drive for you, but I guarantee that you will not spend better money on your car than making this trip.
SAU Yeah thanks rollin_on_18_strong. Skylines Australia it is. *ZxHuNnI* I'm not sure if you had a look at the link I posted in my last post. It gives you instructions on how to repair your faulty AFM. I'll give it too you again. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=186393
i honestly dont think my car would make it that far its ok when i drive it around town... but its the long drives that make it stuf up if it is something as simple ase a faulty afm then i can easily replace it... or repair? As some ppl are telling me it can easily be repaired, by soldering the pins back in place. Thats why i am asking you guys for advice on what my ecu codes are telling me.... and wether they are right or not.. or if there still could be some other problem.. Alot of people are telling me PTU then others say CAS Some have said AFM ... and so are the ECU codes so i just wanted to ask advice on wether you all still think its PTU? CAS? or AFM? seeings now i have done ECU diagnostics.
sorry but what is the TPS? Throttle sensor?? Where is it? how do i check it? If you guys havn't realised by now i am a dumb blonde.... who doesnt know much... Thats y im asking all u experts!! Seriously if im annoying you all just tell me to shutup!
Well you said it yourself already, the ECU is saying you have a faulty AFM. Its giving you the fault code for a faulty AFM. The ECU will do a fine job of telling if a sensor is shot. Start from the start and repair or replace your AFM. If its not that then move on to the next thing. All the symptoms you provided in your original post are & can be symptoms of an intermittent AFM. As for soldering pins, it wont be the pins on the plug, it will be inside the AFM on the circuit board that need re-soldering. If your unable to carry this out yourself, then maybe a friend or mechanic or a member on here in your area may be able to help you out in the practical department.
Have you reset the ECU to see if the code comes back up again? If it does (or even if it doesn't), grab a voltmeter and follow this page http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/...&cycle=off&slide=111&design=default&total=190 It will eliminate your AFM as a problem or show you what part is the problem. This diagnostic looks complicated but it really isn't. Look at the pictures to work out which terminal letter is which. To get to the harness connections, fold the rubber on the harness attached to the AFM back. 1.) Turn the voltmeter to around 20V reading (if it has something around there choose that one) and with the car ignition in the "ON" position put the red probe into the second from end connection of the AFM harness ("E" in the diagram) and the black probe to the car body. The voltmeter should read about 12V. If not, your harness is probably stuffed. 2.) Turn on the engine and when warm check between the "B" terminal (2nd from last at other end to "E") and car body and voltage should read 0.8-1.5V when car is idling. If not, check AFM. Make sure wire "mesh" is on the AFM and the hot wire isn't covered in any crap. To be sure, spray it with some electrical connection cleaner or some brake cleaner spray will also do, basically something that will evaporate without residue. 3.) Pull out harness from the AFM, turn the multimeter to the resistance range (ohm symbol) on the lowest reading it can take. Check between the "C" terminal and the car body, it should have basically zero resistance. Some multimeter's make a noise to let you know this. If not, harness is stuffed. That's basically it, if all checks out then AFM is probably ok. Hope this helps.
