May be we should bet on these Points for closest correct option , reward one stubby or tinny of choise to the winner at the aus 300zx nats in 2008. Cowra.
If the tacho needle is jumpinmg about when the revs are steady, then the problem will be electrical, not fuel. Money will be on CAS or PTU, and especially PTU if the car drives fine, and then plays up, and once playing up, keeps playing up until it's put away long enough to cool down.
Alternator ....allthough why is the battery re-charing at all? meh... intermitent alternator fault is my bet. Im a gambling man.
hey i live in geelong...... the only thing is that it only does this problem when it wants to..... at other times its fine?
hey yes it depends.... when the problem starts the car just starts to chug and lose power.... i put my foot down but it kicks in and out.. if you know what i mean??? it will go for a bit..... sometimes up to 5,000 rpm or even more, and then just starts to lose power until it eventually stops... Then if im lucky it will go again for a bit..... if i hold my foot on the pedal for a bit, it sometimes kicks in and goes, and i mean i can get up to a high speed and high revs for a bit and then just dies... and thats all it keeps doing! Chugging and jolting, with the revs going up and down... I have no idea what to do...
hi If it is the ptu ( im assuming thats the computer?) How can this be fixed? Do i have to replace the whole thing or can it just be reprogramed or something? How can this be checked?? Ppl have been saying put it on a data scan? Where can i get this done and whats involved?? Thanks
hey ok so if thats the problem how do i fix it??? what was your car doing when yours played up??? Is ther any way for certain that i can check for sure that this is the problem before i go replacing things? do u have any idea how much it is to replace? or whats involved?? Thanks
PTU The PTU is this bad boy right here. Series 1 was prone to failure and nissan recalled and released a series 2 which we now have to buy and fit. Car cant run without it. If it is the problem it needs to replaced with the S2 version and wired up. $250??
Sounds like FPCU. This happened to a colleague at work. Would drive OK for 20 mins or so then just die in the arse. Let it sit then could drive again (for a while). Bypassed and no dramas since. Don
For your information............ AFM: Air Flow Meter CAS: Crank Angle Sensor PTU: Power Transistor Unit IACV: Idle Air Control Valve TPS: Throttle Position Sensor With the symptoms your zed is displaying, the PTU may need replacing, although the CAS will show similar signs if failing, but less likely, or a combination of some of the above.
Would a ConZult test help diagrose the problem for her. Mayb she has code errors on her ECU that might tell us whats wrong??
AFM = Air Flow Meter its directly after your air filter. if you take off the nose peice between your head lights. its the thing with the big plug in the side of it.
have you tried... the PTU or CAS yet? if the filters has been replaced and pumps all good. in order of most likely 1 PTU 2 CAS 3 AFM also it may not be the unit it self. it might be a simple as rusted conections in the plugs for each of these. find a zed owner in your area that has spare parts (alot of us do) start with the ptu. check its plugs and swap it out, if its still no good move to the next. your problem sounds electrical. check all the plugs that connect to these. you may as well check injector plugs and coil pack plugs while your at it.. i think there is plenty of info in the tech section and newbie photo's to help you out.
You may have changed the fuel filter, but that does not rule out that you have crap in your fuel tank that then blocks up fuel getting to your fuel pump. Cheers Kerry :zlove:
when your mechanic replaced the fuel pump did he clean out the fuel tank as it could be a blocked sock on the fuel pump. i had that problem with mine more than likely tho it will be a PTU well thats my guess any way